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Thanks for the advice. I did get the horns working again, by buying a new replacement horn switch. One thing I noticed on the replacement was that there isn't a diode or resistor on it as the old one I took out and the used one I bought had. I would try disconnecting that first in the future.

I got back at it today, and this is what I found. 1) I made a jumper cable from solenoid to horn switch,horn did not blow at 60 or above psi. 2) I reconnected the fusible link/diode and the plugged 25 back into horn switch,horn blew. 3) I detached 25 from the horn switch then jumped to steering...

Ok, I did all the tests that were suggested and even made a seperate wire from the solenoid to the horn switch. The horn didn't blow at 60, but at 120 I pushed the horn button and it still didn't work. I redid the Doghead test and it said the wire was grounding somewhere. But by bypassing that...

My previous post was just the wires from the tester no circuit involved. That's why I believe my tester may be faulty. THe tester wires shouldn't change ohms by that much should they?

Alright, I did the test that doghead suggested and something seemed weird with my ohm tester, So I put the 2 leads together and 1.8 So that was alright. So I took them apart for about 5 seconds reconnected them and it was 7. did it again and what do ya know 15 something. So I can't rely on this...

New results in. I removed 25 from the solenoid-no horn I removed the horn switch case-horn still blows I tested for continuity between horn button wire,column case and all 4 switch mounting holes-none I tested the ground wire inside the switch for continuity-none I thought maybe the column was...

I never thought of that! Test #3 for the day!

I also put the old horn switch on the new column and I still have the same problem.

THe second test I plan to run today is take the box off of the steering column horn switch and then see if the horn still blows. If it does then the cover isn't making contact, if it does fix it then it is making contact and I'll have to fix that.

I checked both steering columns for continuity and both check out to be good.

Doghead, I've removed every ground (1 at a time) except 25 the wire to the solenoid and the horn continues to blow.The only wire that will stop the horn is disconnecting 25 from the horn switch located at the bottom of the steering column.

I'll try that after Mom gets out of bed! I think she'd kill me if I started blaring those horns when she's in bed!

I'm not sure, 25 was connected to the solenoid,and 25A ground to the firewall was disconnected.

No it does not, I tried that when I was jumping the wire. When the horns started to blow I disconnected the ground and the horns continued to blow.

Your good Cape, I do appreciate any advice, because I'm completely stumped on this. Here is a few pics of the wires I jumped.I suppose pic 2 is the diode. Pic 1 is where 25 and 25A split.

When the battery is turned off the horns stop. I have taken all four screws loose on the horn switch box(1 at a time) to see if those were grounding. No change every time the battery is turned on the horns blow!

It doesn't matter what I do the horn will not stop blowing. I had the diode jumped and was expecting that to be it. Once the horn started to blow, I removed the jumper wire which I thought the cercuit would've been cut at that point, but No it just kept blowing. I'll add picks in the morning. I...

Here is what I did over the past few hours, Not being a patient man I went out before the responses! Probably a bad idea. I disconnected the fusible link what it looks like to me. I then checked the ohms and of course my meter is going hay wire. So i made a jumper cable and the horn at 60 psi...

Could I bypass it for testing then replace if burnt? Or would that cause major electrical issues? Than Juan and 74M35A2

I looked through the TM's again and they don't have a fix for my problem. Now the horn won't shut off.Everytime the truck reaches 60psi the horns start to blair. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.