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If you watch the antenna climber video, the GP card will do between no-glow and 30 seconds of glow depending on the block temperature. If the engine hasn't been run in a while (cold block) these rough number should work: Figure ~30 seconds if it's 30°F ambient or less - 60 seconds of after...

Didn't hear the chirp you were talking about - was it at the end of the last crank? If so that kind of sounded like the starter bendix skipping on the flywheel.

A mechanic friend of mine told me once, and it stuck: "you can always be the first to see an aftermarket part problem, you always have to check for proper fit when you put things together". It's one of the reasons he's a bit more expensive on the labor he charges his customers, but knowing that...

I do have to agree with cucvrus - the ends of those teeth are pretty well rounded off. Even if you fixed the engagement now, the teeth are missing the surface that got rounded off already so you're not engaging enough gear for long term reliability. If you don't have a "soldier b", you can...

The most important part is "none missing/broken" :beer:

Make sure you bar over the engine completely to check the flywheel/flex-plate teeth. Have you looked at how far the starter pinion gear is engaging the flywheel?

Everything should turn on for about a second or two as a lamp test. Once that's over, oil pressure, brake, and your gen lights should stay lit until the engine is running. Wait, low coolant, and W.I.F. shoulds be off during normal running - basically there should be no idiot lights on after...

Problem is there's no easy way without removing the intake - that's the trouble with hard lines.

Since GM didn't think the fuel priming issue through - you could install somthind like a marine priming bulb inline. Others have installed fuel filter replacement bases with a priming pump built-in. Which does bring up the fuel filter issue - are you still using the square fuel filter base...

A short section of clear fuel combatible tubing from the injection pump return line will allow you to see air bubbles in the fuel.

For priming you want to pressurize the supply side line - if you pull a vacuum on the return line you can suck air into a leaky system.

Quick sanity check is pulling the GP card. Okay so you have a battery disconnect too. Do you have any 24Volt accessories/devices other than the GP relay and the starter motor? I have seen 12V taps get a back-fed through 24V devices like that when there is a battery disconnect opened. Look at...

One of the reasons I cautioned about watching the GP relay while you install the GP card, is that if the card has a bad output transistor that failed-to-short, the GP card will not require power to trigger the GP relay - it only needs to be plugged in if it has that failure mode. If the glow...

Sounds like your wiring is good [thumbzup], you can wire in a button or switch rated for the GP relay coil load - most use 10-20 Amp momentary toggle switches, but it's your call on what you want it to look like. It's probably worth a quick shot plugging in the GP card to see if it is running...

With the GP relay disconnected and the ring terminals for that relay insulated (wrap a latex/nitrile glove around it under the hood), then under the dash: With the key off, if you pull the GP card under the dash and stick one of the multi-meter leads in the contact for the light blue wire...

The GP controller "pulls" the blue wire low (to ground) to activate the glow plug relay. It shows continuity because the relay coil is a "wire" - specifically magnet wire. one end of the coil wire is the red control wire, the other end of the coil wire is the blue control wire. :beer: The...

Looks like your relay is showing the correct voltages for not glowing the plugs (GP-card idle). If you short the blue control terminal to ground you should hear a click, and your orange load terminal should show the same voltage as your red load terminal. Once you've verified that and your...