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That will hold fine. Tell us if you can feel a difference in it's steering.

Are you sure it's not worth leaving in place and weld a couple of blocks on the side of the perch to keep it from going sideways? Like a 3/8" x 3/8" x 2" on each side. The nut and weld would be my next approach, not ruining a dremel trying to get a big enough hole. You'll also get grinding...

On removal...another way would be to use a nut for about a 5/8" bolt and weld the remaining stud to the inside of the nut. Then you have something to get hold of and it can't go on down in. I've done it to avoid nasty drill and tap procedures that G outlined. I would use the 3/32" 7018 rod if...

Apparently it keeps it from moving sideways on the axle. You mean welded on the axle? I don't envy you. Welding anything with oil inside a closed space is not my idea of fun. Can you drill and tap a hole and use a socket head cap screw (taking special care to keep shavings out). Or weld...

Wait till you get it and see what it has on it Lt. Dan. It seems that a +2-3* will be a good target for the caster angle and you can expect it to be around -.5* to begin with. Going to 2-3* won't change the drive-shaft angle too much upward. I'd be starting to be concerned at above +4.4*...

Lt. Dan, it might take you a little while on a mill to remove about 1/2", but then you just do a replacement, parts ready to go. If you have 1 1/2" of block (lift) replacing the OEM, do your bolts still reach? The spring (not axle) starts off at +4.4 * (first drawing of G/peashooter)...

G posted the same pic I think here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=374260&d=1352162938 It looks flat (no angle) to me (just guessing), maybe 1.25" tall. Looks like an easier way than milling or grinding. But double check the locating hole.

Very helpful peashooter. That is exactly what I had hoped to see. Your drawing uses flat and square stock that is readily available if one doesn't want to do a lot of grinding, milling etc. Very simple. I'll work on the math to provide a comparison. Gotta go shovel snow.

We get most of that nasty weather in North Indiana before it hits you Lt. Dan. One good thing...we are on the down side of winter. It's been rough but I remember a lot worse.

What makes it more complicated is that there seem to be some with different angles. Your particular truck may have a low angle. Without PICTURES that cannot be seen. Some are stated to be as much as 8* and when reversing would be a change of 16*. If you read the threads referenced, you will...

Both? Will look forward to your pictures.

Whats your plan, Lt . Dan? Mill, shim or flip? Peashooter, the thread recommends grinding or milling and it appears in the other thread (which it references) that there are some that "flipping" have resulted in about a 4 degree positive, which is not excessive on the drive train. But then...

We like pictures. The mod itself, of removing, drilling the locator hole and replacing with ends swapped (180) is quite clear. I want to see if the angle has changed 8 degree. It should be discernible on a photo of it all together. That is a large change that while people have spoken about...

Can you take a couple of pics as it is now?

Rutledge1113, now is the time to learn to post pictures so we can see the angle, please. You can upload a few into a file and then add them to a post. If you have problems, we can find a way to help. Nice looking truck by the way. Dan, If it were a 4 degree, that would be an 8 change. Hard...

That's why I was hoping for a drawing...to see a comparison to MWMULES method of material removal. It appears to remove material that changes 2 degree. Does it end up at the same angle with a shim? It must be close. What I don't understand is turning them around...that seems too much.

Aswayze, can you make a drawing to compare what you are doing to what peashooter has drawn? I don't even have a deuce and find it interesting. The looks of the G177 on the deuce are great proportionally. I have 5 ton's and wonder how much of this applies to their road handling?