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My rule of thumb is to tighten until it quits leaking, take it around the block and tighten again if any are moist. Never had a problem. EDIT: This is assuming you have a good flare on the end of the tubing and the surface on the cylinder isn't messed up. A bad flare won't tighten no matter how...

You can measure and have the shop give you straight sections of pre-flared brake line and then bend them yourself. The typical brake flaring kits they sell for a few $ at the parts stores are kind of a hassle to use and hard to get a straight flare IMO. I bought a professional hydraulic tool...

That's probably too small. Stock is 5/16 on the frame and 1/4 down to the cylinders.

You might want to think about using the copper-nickel brake lines. Will never rust and easy to bend by hand. I'm not talking about regular copper tubing you find at home depot either. They make special copper tubing just for brake lines.