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Y'know if one looks at the diagnostic port he'll see that very few pins are used. It wouldn't take much to swap out that large connector for something smaller that has both the Jack and Plug side. Done well, it could look pretty spiffy. A wheatstone bridge is used to measure resistance...

good luck z

Since you got me thinking about these monsters again I just noodled around and found out where to get a new one.. If you want to buy one here is a source: Quantum Controls Chanhassen , MN 1-952-361-3694 Ask for Wendy Price is 75 dollars each They have them in stock right now which is a...

The "relay" on the far left is actually an electronic switch. I've got one sitting on my desk right now. I have never seen one of these available for sale. This switch samples the RPM's of the engine from the sensor just below the starter, and when they hit 600 (or 800?? - don't...

Back to the 803a... With K12 back in place, remove K19--That would be the second from the right relay, and see if CB1 pops. If not then the problem is in the float switch circuitry and we can isolate it further. If the breaker still pops, replace K19 and disconnect the connector going into the...

Well, you just eliminated about a third of that circuit as being the problem. At this point leave CR5 alone since it isn't causing the "pop" of the breaker. What you might do next is to swap the K12 relay with the one next to it (to the right not left) just to make sure that the relay itself...

I would be surprised if one could substitute a different voltage regulator successfully. The quad winding supplies the AC that powers the regulator -- that's all it does, and it uses a permanent magnet for excitation. Think of it as a "fourth" phase/winding -- hence the name "QUAD". Its only...

The relay K12 is the second from the left -- If you open the control panel you'll see a string of 6 relays. The K12 relay is the second from the left. Be sure the unit is turned OFF before removing the relay and that it is OFF when replacing the relay.. Diodes will all be CR, followed by a...

First, re-connect everyting to its original position on the switch except leave pin 3 disconnected. Since when you have the switch in the first position that includes the auxillary fuel pump you hear a pump working - that is the E1 pump, the auxillary fuel pump. When you move to the next...

It would seem that if there is a short it would be on one of the pins 1,3,5,7 on S1. Since the glow plugs won't trip the breaker, then pin 1 is likely OK. So, if you disconnect pins 3,5,7 on S1 and turn s1 on you can see if CB1 trips. If it doesn't, then connect pins 3,5,7 one at a time and see...

This is in response to a posting a few posts ago... I went to the shop and checked the voltage regulator circuit board on my ~2000 mep 803a unit. The board number is 19583 H. The 2009 board that you have is also a 19583, but I wonder about the detail designation of 'H'. What is the detail...

It is easy to take the unit apart. I have mine apart, and I'd attach a picture, but any time I try to do that my computer locks up in the 'manage attachments' screen and I have to remove the battery to get it to shut down. If you do take it apart, note the number on the MOSFETs. Mine is...

I don't have the board with me -- I'm going out to the shop later today and I can get the number then. The regulator I have is from around 2000, so I don't know what version it would be. There is, however, a fifth power diode (that is not part of the bridge circuit) and a capacitor that are...

I'd love to take a peek at a new-off-the-line voltage regulator to see what and if the vendor did anything about this problem. There is another issue besides this that the vendor needs to address on these regulators and I'd like to see how they dealt with that as well.