Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 13 of 13

Thread: Bio-Heat/ Bio-Diesel

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
    Thanked 294 Times in 153 Posts


    To understand how Bio-diesel can affect fuel system you have to learn how it is made. It is not really a complicated process but understanding the different processes used can help you foresee future problems.

    lye and methyl alcohol are used to bind to the fats and is separated out two ways, one is by letting it sit and it will form layers and you can drain the fuel from the top or the glycerin from the bottom. The second way or second step, is by washing it with water then letting it sit again and draining the once again separated layers. The water used can actually contribute to a change in PH of the resulting biodiesel because in the end even after letting it sit and separate there is still water emulsified in with the new "diesel" on a molecular level. The way to get the emulsified water out is to either heat it or filter it through water separator. Some say washing your bio diesel leads to problems with bio growth due to left over water still combined with fuel and recommend using settling and straining to remove the fats while other claim that it is far worse to put unwashed bio-diesel through your fuel system. Me personally i would settle, drain, wash, heat, and then filter it to get it as clean, dry, and pure as possible from all possible impurities.

  2. #12
    Sergeant U1100L's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    littleton ma
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts


    The used veggie stuff is nasty.. your right Lye is one then methanol and some assorted scales. Left with some nice glycerine afterwards. Looks like a crystal-meth lab.

  3. #13
    2 Star General
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    West greenwich/RI
    Thanked 389 Times in 221 Posts


    I used to make boidiesel at home and used it in my backhoe and home heating furnace. I only washed what I was going to use for engine fuel. You have to wash it to remove left over soap and methanol from the reaction process. But even clean biodiesel is an excellent solvent so the problem you run into when running high concentrations (Such as B100) is that it will loosen any sludge built up in you tank or fuel system and it will slowly soften and eat away ar some types of rubber. That's why vehicles with rubber fuel lines need them changed to something that can withstand biodiesel, such as viton or clear vinyl tube. The other problem you run into when using greater than B20 in a furnace is a difference in BTU's per gallon requiring a bigger nozzle and burner adjustment (in additio to the fuel eating seals in your pump if they aren't bio-compatible.)

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Similar Threads

  1. one year old Bio-Diesel..
    By CycleJay in forum Alternative Fuels
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 03-17-2012, 09:17
  2. Bio Diesel.....?
    By islandguydon in forum Alternative Fuels
    Replies: 40
    Last Post: 02-07-2012, 19:37
  3. Does anyone make their own Bio-Diesel???
    By a68cudas in forum Alternative Fuels
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 02-09-2010, 11:45
  4. bio diesel report
    By rizzo in forum Alternative Fuels
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-07-2006, 22:55

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts