What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Horns. Got tired of monotone. Dr Evil's empire had a $17 and change sale on Hella dual tone so I splurged. Yes, much better. Kept the original so it is tri tone. Poor relay has to submit to my driving editorials.

cucvrus said:

My diagnosis of the cause is that the CV joint on the front drive shaft locked up and could not articulate/compress properly and forced the pressure back against the transfer case.( the weakest link) I had it happen on plow trucks. 2 already snapped at highway speed and broke the transfer case the spacer and the flange from the rear of the transmission. One on the 205 case broke the bell of the transmission. More like a crack but a big crack that pushed back and forth on the lot till I limped it back to the shop. That is my diagnosis as to the cause. Guess I'll never know if I am correct but that is a duplicate of the carnage I have seen with each front drive shaft CV failure from lack of grease and lock up. Glad you were able to fix it. Happy Holidays.

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I agree with your diagnoses CUCVRUS. I had a CV joint take out the back of a TH400 when it froze. It was a "non" greasable unit so there was nothing that could be done. I've since seen this happen many times. The CV joint can freeze extremely fast too. One day your driving normally and then the next instance the driveline freezes and all **** breaks loose ! That is why I always grease the crap out of CV joints ! Then wipe then down afterwards.

I am happy to report that the replacement transfer case is in and all is almost well again. No front driveshaft yet. I have some yoke damage so a new one will be needed. I'm hoping I can swap it out without having to redo the crush sleeve.

You have the parts? I have a few that need tubed.

I have a driveshaft ready to install. I just need to swap out the yoke of the front differential. Easy part to obtain.

What happened to the JBWeld? Why make it complicated?

MarcusOReallyus said:

What happened to the JBWeld? Why make it complicated?

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Well, there's a story about that. I was all ready to put the jigsaw puzzle together when I realized that the entire section of transfer case that housed the shift mechanism was gone. I mean it's no where to be found. I can't make one of those out of JB.

Installed the cold weather grill cover and necessary hardware on NGOG1N...thanks again to John at Hillbilly Wizard for supplying me with everything needed for a perfect installation experience. Then I removed it immediately because it’s an unusual 55 today.

Put a toolbox on craigslist and some guy emails me saying he'll take it, but would I be willing to deliver? No, but I'll meet you at such-&-such place about halfway between our two locations. He agrees.

So I use the friendly floorjack to lift the box up as high as possible, then climb onto the tailgate of the M1009 and heft it in, 'bout breaking my back doing it.

I get to the such-&-such parking lot and the guy walks up. I say, "Why don't you pull your truck up tailgate to tailgate so it's easier to move?"

No comment.

He helps me get it out of the truck onto the ground and then starts the hem & haw....

20 minutes later (about 38° outside) he decides he doesn't want it after all...

We heft it back into the truck and I find out later it took a little damage.

All that to say; during the unload the right side tailgate cable snapped. Looks a little corroded, and the left side isn't far behind.



RockAuto to the rescue. Order placed.

cucvrus said:

My diagnosis of the cause is that the CV joint on the front drive shaft locked up and could not articulate/compress properly and forced the pressure back against the transfer case.( the weakest link) I had it happen on plow trucks. 2 already snapped at highway speed and broke the transfer case the spacer and the flange from the rear of the transmission. One on the 205 case broke the bell of the transmission. More like a crack but a big crack that pushed back and forth on the lot till I limped it back to the shop. That is my diagnosis as to the cause. Guess I'll never know if I am correct but that is a duplicate of the carnage I have seen with each front drive shaft CV failure from lack of grease and lock up. Glad you were able to fix it. Happy Holidays.

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I'm going to go with the loose driveshaft theory. Attached is a pic of the front output yoke flange. 2 of the bolts are missing and there is not a single thread damaged. The other 2 are sheared off. I am surmising that it weakened the other 2 bolt until they sheared off. Despite the Carnage, there are alot of good parts to recover from this transfer case.

Recovry4x4 said:

Does anyone know if JB weld will work on a 208 transfer case? Mine was leaking and I found the source.

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Nice! Why go half way lol. I had that happen to an NP205 on Rt17 in Binghamton once, at highway speed. What a racket that made, and cars scattering to miss parts. Oooops...

I'm replacing Gen 1 for the 3rd time. There's a plate on the backside of the front case that holds the bearings in place, it came loose again. NAPA is covering it again lol. This time we're going to Locktite the bolts before it leaves the store.

I got the new yoke for the front axle. All done now. When I dumped the old case out of the truck, it snagged the unhooked transfer case plug and ripped it off. I installed new but the 4wd light doesn't work. Need to check switch on case then if it's okay, start pulling wire.

This mornings road test was the most miles I ever driven the M1010 at one time since my purchase!

Recovry4x4 said:

I got the new yoke for the front axle. All done now. When I dumped the old case out of the truck, it snagged the unhooked transfer case plug and ripped it off. I installed new but the 4wd light doesn't work. Need to check switch on case then if it's okay, start pulling wire.

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I believe if you jump the terminals, that should light the dash light. If not, then it could be the bulb itself, I just did this in my truck, was working one day, not the next, thought was the switch, so put a new one in, turns out bulb just happened to burn out.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk

I was half awake when I filled the fuel tank..been using Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle to clean the fuel system for a month. One ounce per 10 gallons, not hard. Why I dosed 6 ounces is yet unexplained. I fall on the excuse of working 55 hour weeks..nights at that too.

The 1031 has never run better. Loves 62 MPH by GPS. Have gone to 73 MPH at times. Had, and I do say that in past tense, a little weeping at the throttle shaft on the injection pump. Dry now.

Keith_J said:

I was half awake when I filled the fuel tank..been using Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle to clean the fuel system for a month. One ounce per 10 gallons, not hard. Why I dosed 6 ounces is yet unexplained. I fall on the excuse of working 55 hour weeks..nights at that too.

The 1031 has never run better. Loves 62 MPH by GPS. Have gone to 73 MPH at times. Had, and I do say that in past tense, a little weeping at the throttle shaft on the injection pump. Dry now.

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Im considering just dumping a whole bottle in my half full tank. A lot of people usually recommend pulling the IP cover, siphoning out the fuel, and filling with this stuff and letting it sit for a few hours. If it still starts and runs with the pump full of that im sure it would do fine in the fuel mixed in for half a tank.

I went out and rounded up all the original parts to remove this lift kit from my 1031. I was lucky and ended up with the original springs ect. to return it to stock ride height. The big tires and lift look good, but... I use this truck for utility, you almost need a ladder to reach the vice with this lift.

shotty said:

Im considering just dumping a whole bottle in my half full tank. A lot of people usually recommend pulling the IP cover, siphoning out the fuel, and filling with this stuff and letting it sit for a few hours. If it still starts and runs with the pump full of that im sure it would do fine in the fuel mixed in for half a tank.

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Yes, I recommend it as this is some kind of glycol ether, possibly a crown ether. So it has impressive cetane index with all that oxygen in this hydrocarbon. It really dissolves diesel varnish, also great on carb overhauls. Just don't use it as a gasoline additive. They make a product for that (BC3 company).

Garagefull said:

I went out and rounded up all the original parts to remove this lift kit from my 1031. I was lucky and ended up with the original springs ect. to return it to stock ride height. The big tires and lift look good, but... I use this truck for utility, you almost need a ladder to reach the vice with this lift.

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Pictures would be nice . I now want 34s on my 1031, have 33s.

Finally, found a NP 241 out of an 80s Dodge. Should be here Saturday. This should bolt right on to my NV4500. This is a Dodge gasser version which only requires an inexpensive plate adapter to fit the bell housing in my SECM. Come spring I'll remove the SM465 and install the NV4500. I think the gear spacing and OD combined with the 4.10 gears will make a nice flatland highway cruiser out of this truck.