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M1009 Tailgate crank

ramcatdoc

ramcatdoc

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M1009 Tailgate Crank

I finally lost all use of my tailgate window crank for my M1009. I've looked all over the Internet w/o any success. Anybody have one they can "part" with? I'll need the whole crank assembly. Whether the lockset works or not is not really as much an issue as being able to open and close the window/gate! aua

Thanks in advance.

Allan
 
ramcatdoc

ramcatdoc

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Hey, I've been looking for days all over the web for a tailgate crank for my M1009. LMC is out. Several sites looked promising, but then fizzled out. Any ideas?

Allan
 
edpdx

edpdx

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one for auction on the Bay. Look up:
1973-1991 BLAZER JIMMY TAILGATE CABLES AND

These are the chrome ones. I bought mine at 1a or someplace. To get a good non-polished finish, I sanded down with a flexible sanding block and the used deglosser/self-etching primer and then 383. Maybe someone else can show you a better way to de chrome for paint. Good luck. oh, almost forgot. The crank will accept your good lock cylinder so you don't have to carry so many keys.
 
ramcatdoc

ramcatdoc

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I have 4 Blazers, and 3 of them I had to replace the same thing. I picked up everything from LMC Truck. A little pricey, but where else are you going to go? http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csb/full.aspx?Page=44 The NO. 6 part, clutch $20.00 is what kept going out on mine./QUOTE]

Thanks. I called LMC earlier this week, and they said it would be something like 20 weeks(!) before they would know even if they could begin to stock this part again. Looks like for all practical purposes, LMC will not be selling these parts for the time being!
Click to expand...
 
ramcatdoc

ramcatdoc

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one for auction on the Bay. Look up:
1973-1991 BLAZER JIMMY TAILGATE CABLES AND
/QUOTE]

Hey, I found this one, too, right after my post. Ordered it and they said it was shipped out this am. It said I was the 9th person to order 5 available parts, but sounds like it shipped anyway. Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
 
K9Vic

K9Vic

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Interesting.... I have never seen a part not being available for our trucks before at LMC, bad enough they are chrome, but if they cannot be bought anymore that is even worse.

Taken from LMC trying to order the part just a few minutes ago.

Part # 38-6678 is not available at this time.
No Items Purchased
Click to expand...
 
Repo3004

Repo3004

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It's always that part that craps out, too bad someone couldn't machine those out and sell them. I would pick up a few spares. Anything stronger then the OEM clutch part...


Yea, K9Vic, the chrome bothers me. One day, I'm going to wait till the wife goes to work then crank up the oven and powder coat them all flat black before she gets home. For some reason the wife gets upset at me when I bring in truck parts into the kitchen :)
 
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edpdx

edpdx

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If you are blowing parts out regularly, if the glass is a 8!@+¢# to crank up and down, or it slips, taking forever to raise the glass, then it's time to open the tailgate panel and do some maintenance. Order a window regulator- all the online GM suppliers carry it. Make notes, take pictures and pull the regulator and glass channels. Clean, lube and replace. Under 2 hours if you have all the parts handy. You won't regret it. The window crank will last a long time. I have a write up on the procedure in another thread, and a note to watch for the odd ball screw that will break if turned the usual way to loosen.
 
edpdx

edpdx

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85CUCVtom: Here is the link to what I posted on my fix experience. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ne-to-your-CUCV-today-lately-Part-1&p=1188525.
To day I installed a new rear window regulator in my Blazer. The handle finally gave out and would not roll the tailgate window up or down. I thought it was the clutch at first; but it was the tiny crank gear between the two large elevator gears.

While I was in there I cleaned out the mud built up in the bottom of the door, soaked the latches and added new foam donuts to the rods. There was no felt in the channel guides, so I replaced it with some hunter orange felt I had. Also installed new top/cap channel guides and inner and outer sweeps.

OOOPS! Almost forgot... Washed the interior of the endgate and installed fatmat (lowes roof flashing) to quiet the gate down.

This tailgate overhaul was thorough; but not as difficult or hard to understand as I thought it would be. The gate feels and sounds more solid/quiet. The window cranks up and down smoothly and the clutch was just fine; showing only acceptable wear.

If your endgate window is taking a lot to crank up or down I highly recommend this overhaul. Good one day project.

The regulator was about $135 shipped. Comes with new rollers and is easy to install. It is an AC DELCO part 15641780. Shop the web by part number and look for free shipping.

Your window troubles may not be the clutch, mine wasn't. Besides the overhaul with new parts means your existing OEM clutch- hard to find, will last longer not working so hard and wearing so fast.
NOTE. The middle adjustment screw of the latch control is a LEFT thread screw- don't shear this turning it the wrong way. Get the screw from the wrecking yard- the ones from the electric gates have them as well. The regulator teeth are probably the problem- buy the regulator and reline the channels you'll be good-to-go for another 20. :grin:

MORE: The window is not a problem if you pull out the sweeps and pull the track screws from the drive's side od the gate. Then wiggle the track bottom to centerline of the gate allowing you to pull the glass free. Now you can really tear the tracks free and reline them. I used strips of felt I had handy. Still works smooth.

I know I had my lock apart and there was some business in the core where a spring or rod or something had to be fussed with to reassemble it; but I can't remember it well enough to tell you how to do it. See if you can locate one in a wrecking yard. :beer:

MORE: BIG TIP: if you find parts at the wrecking yard- like the reverse thread screw... Grab 'em when ever you can. If they are from a manual crank, just spin them out. I found one in an electric crank. Remove the inside panel, on the right side of the opening you'll find the crank cable going into the electric motor. disconnect it and place the end of the wire into an cordless drill. Reverse it slowly to move the window up or down as needed to scavenge parts.
 
Warthog

Warthog

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And use some silicone spray on the weather stripping. Works wonders. Just control where you spray it.
 
71m109a3

71m109a3

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If you are blowing parts out regularly, if the glass is a 8!@+¢# to crank up and down, or it slips, taking forever to raise the glass, then it's time to open the tailgate panel and do some maintenance. Order a window regulator- all the online GM suppliers carry it. Make notes, take pictures and pull the regulator and glass channels. Clean, lube and replace. Under 2 hours if you have all the parts handy. You won't regret it. The window crank will last a long time. I have a write up on the procedure in another thread, and a note to watch for the odd ball screw that will break if turned the usual way to loosen.
Click to expand...
What he said. Avoid the LMC regulators, as they are not of the same quality as the GM ones. Believe me, the GM ones are worth the extra money.
 
HAWKMAN

HAWKMAN

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ramcatdoc said:
one for auction on the Bay. Look up:
1973-1991 BLAZER JIMMY TAILGATE CABLES AND
/QUOTE]

Hey, I found this one, too, right after my post. Ordered it and they said it was shipped out this am. It said I was the 9th person to order 5 available parts, but sounds like it shipped anyway. Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
If for some reason this falls through I did find a crank handle in a damaged gate so I've got ya' covered...also found a regulator I didn't know I had:shock:...glad I looked!
Click to expand...
 
Bronx Boy

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My crank just died and I found this post very helpful. I do have a question, I was hoping someone can help me with...

My rear window is in the down position with the hand crank not engaging the regulator. This means I can't move the window up to get to the regulator, and then to the hand crank to see what's going on there.

Is there a way to move the window UP when the crank doesn't work?

Is all work done by removing the cover plate? I've reviewed 10-21 and 10-22 in the manual.

All help is greatly appreciated. I can see working on the regulator etc., if the window is up. But stuck the down position, I can't get to anything.

FYI, as a temporary measure, I am considering taking industrial grade adhesive velcro and putting it on the outline of the fiberglas roof and then taking plastic material to form a window that will also help with water leakage on the sides of the endgate (which has been a recurring problem). This plastic window will be sealed with velcro on the bottom as well, across the full width of the endgate.
 
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Mainsail

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When I got my M1009 the crank was broken. I was able to reach through the hole with a screwdriver and manipulate the window up and down. Not easy or fast, but possible. It was the first thing I fixed on mine, and still going strong. I treat it gingerly, like its a conglomeration of fragile parts.
 
carter262

carter262

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Bronx Boy said:
My crank just died and I found this post very helpful. I do have a question, I was hoping someone can help me with...

My rear window is in the down position with the hand crank not engaging the regulator. This means I can't move the window up to get to the regulator, and then to the hand crank to see what's going on there.

Is there a way to move the window UP when the crank doesn't work?

Is all work done by removing the cover plate? I've reviewed 10-21 and 10-22 in the manual.

All help is greatly appreciated. I can see working on the regulator etc., if the window is up. But stuck the down position, I can't get to anything.

FYI, as a temporary measure, I am considering taking industrial grade adhesive velcro and putting it on the outline of the fiberglas roof and then taking plastic material to form a window that will also help with water leakage on the sides of the endgate (which has been a recurring problem). This plastic window will be sealed with velcro on the bottom as well, across the full width of the endgate.
Click to expand...
If you remove the crank from the tailgate you can use pliers to turn the regulator to roll the window up and down until you can fix it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
carter262

carter262

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If you still have the tabs for the clutch you could possibly fix the broken clutch and reenforce the way I did mine. Mine was not broken but it would work the same way.

I bought one of the LMC clutches it lasted 9 days before the tabs broke off. I reenforced the to older one I had and reinstalled about 6 months ago and still working strong.

Look at this write up and see what you think. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?121551-Tailgate-crank-clutch-fix-upgrade&highlight=

One other thing. I agree if you have to replace the regulator spend the extra and get the GM one!
 
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