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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

The FLU farm

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I'm kinda dense, FLU farm, I am not sure what you mean, or if you are joking. My tendency is to over torque. When I tighten until it turns free it means I've either snapped the head, or stripped the threads. In either case backing off a half turn doesn't do me much good. But if you are not ribbing me, can you explain what you do mean?
Me? Ribbing you???
 

The FLU farm

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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
For as long as I can remember, I've been told that I need to replace the old style primer pump on the Winter SEE. Well, the time finally came.

It wasn't firing right up as usual, so one day I decided to try priming it. Only to have fuel leak out when pumping.
Three days and $10 later, the new one from Amazon arrived. Five minutes later DSCN2434[1].jpgDSCN2435[1].jpgthe pump was installed, and the Winter SEE fired right up again, like it used to.

Now I'm just hoping that the pump was the only problem.
 

The FLU farm

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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Thanks, Toolee. I simply Googled OM352 primer pump, which led me to Amazon. Then it was only a matter of guessing which one would work/be best.
Looks like I lucked out.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
722
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northern nh
Newer Mercedes engines use the same style pump as the what was sold on Amazon. I think the only difference is a Bosch logo. Unless you are going for a "concours" restoration no need to rebuild the old one as the new one is superior. My local Unimog expert did indicate that the old style is easy to rebuild.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,277
1,186
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Newer Mercedes engines use the same style pump as the what was sold on Amazon. I think the only difference is a Bosch logo. Unless you are going for a "concours" restoration no need to rebuild the old one as the new one is superior. My local Unimog expert did indicate that the old style is easy to rebuild.
Dang it, peakbagger. Now you made me want to take the original pump apart, just to see what's in there.
Will I end up spending $5, or so, on new O-rings next time, or $10 for a new pump?

I'm lazy, so you can guess the answer. Plus the new pump is quicker to operate...but you still made me want to dissect the old one.
 

rtrask

Active member
332
220
43
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
I'm guessing that with all his reluctant rewiring expertise that Peakbagger will have the definitive answer on this, but does anyone have a suggestion on a replacement for what the parts manual calls "connector body, plug"? It attaches to the bottom of the fuse block, it is kind of grand central for the wiring harness. I disconnected mine from the bottom of the fuse block so I could get behind the it and the plastic is so brittle it just crumbles when you touch it. I am going to have to do some maintenance on it, and would like to replace what is left.
 

The FLU farm

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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Went to push some snow today, which became an interesting experience.
First, the Summer SEE smoked a LOT after firing up, which it's never done before. The photo doesn't do it justice as it had been running for several minutes before it was taken.DSCN2441[1].jpg

The next surprise was to see the front hydraulic tank oozing over. It probably puked about two quarts, as the level was in the middle and ended up at the low mark.DSCN2442[1].jpg

After about an hour of working, the AW-32 was still quite foamy. DSCN2445[1].jpg

It was about 0 degrees this morning, and I can't remember if the Summer SEE has been used in such low temps before, but it's still odd, I think.

Then the Winter SEE wouldn't start, but that turned out to be my own doing; it turns out that the electrical for the snowblower is using some juice at all times.
Never noticed that before as it used to be temporarily wired to a battery and disconnected after each use. Oh well, live and learn.
 
First time?

I'm curious to know whether this has happened to anyone before....

I was attempting to troubleshoot some transmission issues when the shuttle gearshift came out of the transmission. Like completely out, with all parts down to the collar, nonmetallic still on it. Will try to post a picture.
 

Pinsandpitons

Active member
155
41
28
Location
Central Washington
In regards to the hydro oil puking out of the vent; that happened to me when I first got my SEE. At the time I just figured it was overfull and since it didn't happen again I never really figured out what was going on. But there was some pump whine that coincided with it like there was air in the system. How the air got in and why it hasn't gotten in again is a mystery.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I think tennmogger is onto something with the plugged filter. Not that I think that the filter is necessarily plugged, but the viscosity of the fluid was surprisingly thick. It flowed like very cold 90W.

My suspicion is that I caused it. Right after starting the SEE, I lifted the blade to adjust its angle while the engine warmed up a bit. Being at or close to zero degrees, the fluid wasn't warmed up at all when asked to do its job, so for all practical purposes there was "a plug" in the system somewhere.

It's still odd as not much later in the day the Winter SEE's hydraulics were working just fine. Same fluid, practically the same temperatures. Although, its front system did get a bit of warm-up before lifting the loader since it had to be jump started.

I'll put some AW-32 outside tonight and see how thick it gets.
 

Pinsandpitons

Active member
155
41
28
Location
Central Washington
Headlight

Also, for anyone else here that was a doof and broke a headlight while removing or reinstalling the Schmidt front loader, the replacement sealed beam headlight from Wagner is $13. Part number 4800, listed as a military lamp and rated at 28V. Easily found once you know what to look for. Much cheaper than the H4 conversions out there. FWIW
 

Falcondriver

New member
3
0
1
Location
Stevens Point, WI
Hello, Just got my 87 FLU a couple months ago. Trying to learn what I can, and this forum looks like it has a wealth of information to get me headed in the right direction. Couple questions right off the bat for the veteran owners.
1. It appears that still have an intact alcohol reservoir for my air system. Should I try to fill it for winter ops or just let it be?
2. I have a supply of Jet-A kerosene that I occasionally use in my Series Rover. Will this motor and injector system tolerate this fuel?
 
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