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Thread: FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

  1. #4321
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
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    In all fairness, he suggested that I'd park in front of the house, on the gravel.
    Which I should've, except I would've blocked everything.

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    Been a while since I posted here. Glad to see the crew is still kicking. Just got my first HMMH delivered last night. Way cooler than I even imagined! Going to give it a tune up and start fixing stuff. Sheared pin on a crane cylinder, seat back cover eaten by mice, speedometer not working, oil pan gasket leaking, bent fork, and one of hydraulic gauges not showing fluid (even though tank is full). All in all, a very solid machine. Some minor rust issues in odd places, but nothing I can do about that. I find it a little odd that it shows about 800 miles but only 35 hours (yes, the 5 is the red number). The engine is black. I noticed a black engine on one of my other trucks. This HMMH has a 2011 rebuild. I've often wondered if the odometers got replaced or reset during a rebuild. And I have wondered if a black engine indicates an engine replacement at the time of rebuild. Anybody know? I recently talked to the local Caterpillar folks. They actually do some rebuilds for the military on some of the Oshkosh trucks. Guy told me they never reset the odometers.

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    The FLU farm (05-14-2019)

  4. #4323
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSMOG View Post
    Been a while since I posted here. Glad to see the crew is still kicking. Just got my first HMMH delivered last night. Way cooler than I even imagined!
    Good to see you resurface! I think you'll wonder how you ever got along without a crane. I sure did.

  5. #4324
    4 Star General Another Ahab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSMOG View Post
    Been a while since I posted here. Glad to see the crew is still kicking. Just got my first HMMH delivered last night.

    The engine is black. I noticed a black engine on one of my other trucks. This HMMH has a 2011 rebuild. I've often wondered if the odometers got replaced or reset during a rebuild. And I have wondered if a black engine indicates an engine replacement at the time of rebuild. Anybody know?
    The idea (or something like it) makes some sense.

    Might be why it's not so:

    - Makes too much sense.
    Last edited by Another Ahab; 05-15-2019 at 08:04.
    M35A2 w/Winch SOLD

  6. #4325
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    Does anyone know where to find the ambient temperature sensor / or have a better theory on why the starter relay is not energizing the ignition switch? (no it is not related to the clutch switch)

    I have been working my way through the wiring issues. Fortunately I have not found any rodent damage to the wiring harness, but time and the elements have set me some challenges still. I replaced the big 8 position connector under the fuse box 2 that was crumbling to touch, and had a spot weld where it had arc welded to the blade in the connector. I have soaked the rest of the connectors in a vinegar/salt bath followed by a scrub with a brass brush and a soak in a baking soda bath. I then replaced all of the fuses, and the 5 relays. After all that the lights all seem to work properly, but as before when I turn the switch to the on position all the gauges except engine temperature peg out at the max values. and there is no voltage on the single wire that runs from the starter relay to the starter button. I have tested the wire from the relay to the switch and it seems fine. The clutch switch is energizing the relay under the cab on the right side, which I assume is where the transmission verifies that it is not in gear.

    I am not sure where to go from here.

  7. #4326
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtrask View Post
    ...and there is no voltage on the single wire that runs from the starter relay to the starter button. I have tested the wire from the relay to the switch and it seems fine.
    There shouldn't be any voltage on that wire from the switch to the relay, unless you're pushing the starter switch. So my question would be if the switch has power in.

    Ambient temp sensor? Not a clue. And even if I knew it wouldn't explain what it'd have to do with energizing the starter.

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    Guyfang (06-06-2019)

  9. #4327
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    Quote Originally Posted by The FLU farm View Post
    There shouldn't be any voltage on that wire from the switch to the relay, unless you're pushing the starter switch. So my question would be if the switch has power in.

    That is odd if I run a hot wire to the other pair of wires it activates the starter. I will have to take a closer look at it and repeat the experiment, maybe I got my wires crossed.
    Last edited by rtrask; 06-07-2019 at 00:42. Reason: fixing quote

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    Quote Originally Posted by rtrask View Post
    That is odd if I run a hot wire to the other pair of wires it activates the starter. I will have to take a closer look at it and repeat the experiment, maybe I got my wires crossed.
    I finally got around to digging in and testing it a bit more, and did enough prep work so I can ask the question better and hopefully get better results.


    I took the 2 pages of wiring diagrams from the Student manual on the 24 VOLT STARTING SYSTEM S.E.E and color coded the wires to make it easy to follow the discussion. Please see diagram below.

    24_Volt_Starting_System_SEE_inColor.jpg


    The red line (211) goes to the started switch from the started non repeat relay, In the diagram, and confirmed by manually tracing the wire it is plugged in to the 87a plug on the relay, which should mean default on. The dark blue wire (215) is connected to the 30 plug on the relay and has 24 volts on it when the key is turned on, and I have the clutch starter lock out depressed. If I bypass the relay and run a wire directly from the dark blue line to the switch the starter engages.


    If I remove (342) the light blue line and plug in the relay the starter engages through red line, and the volt meter confirms 24 volts on the light blue line, so I think that the relay is OK (it is brand new too). So the real question is why does light blue have 24 volts on it?


    Based on what the 87 plug of the relay being connected to yellow (281) and that wire connecting to the KBI cold start switch & Ambient Temperature Sensor, was that one or both of these components was bad which is why I wanted to know where the ambient temperature sensor is. After thinking about it further, that was probably a red herring. There are problems in the cold start system, the KBI switch seems suspect, and solenoid at the ether injector is frozen. Also why will it not start with the cold start switch?


    I must have the light blue and possibly the purple line wired incorrectly, or perhaps there is an issue with the reverse polarity switch, ... IDK any suggestions are welcome.






  11. #4329
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtrask View Post
    That is odd if I run a hot wire to the other pair of wires it activates the starter. I will have to take a closer look at it and repeat the experiment, maybe I got my wires crossed.
    I finally got around to digging in and testing it a bit more, and did enough prep work so I can ask the question better and hopefully get better results.


    I took the 2 pages of wiring diagrams from the Student manual on the 24 VOLT STARTING SYSTEM S.E.E and color coded the wires to make it easy to follow the discussion. Please see diagram below.

    24_Volt_Starting_System_SEE_inColor.jpg


    The red line (211) goes to the started switch from the started non repeat relay, In the diagram, and confirmed by manually tracing the wire it is plugged in to the 87a plug on the relay, which should mean default on. The dark blue wire (215) is connected to the 30 plug on the relay and has 24 volts on it when the key is turned on, and I have the clutch starter lock out depressed. If I bypass the relay and run a wire directly from the dark blue line to the switch the starter engages.


    If I remove (342) the light blue line and plug in the relay the starter engages through red line, and the volt meter confirms 24 volts on the light blue line, so I think that the relay is OK (it is brand new too). So the real question is why does light blue have 24 volts on it?


    Based on what the 87 plug of the relay being connected to yellow (281) and that wire connecting to the KBI cold start switch & Ambient Temperature Sensor, was that one or both of these components was bad which is why I wanted to know where the ambient temperature sensor is. After thinking about it further, that was probably a red herring. There are problems in the cold start system, the KBI switch seems suspect, and solenoid at the ether injector is frozen. Also why will it not start with the cold start switch?

    I must have the light blue and possibly the purple line wired incorrectly, or perhaps there is an issue with the reverse polarity switch, ... IDK any suggestions are welcome.






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    Another Ahab (06-11-2019)

  13. #4330
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    I'm really tired, but isn't 87 normally "power out"? In other words, it is only carrying power when the relay is energized.

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