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Another year, another VIN INFO thread. Still suffering through computer issues but here we go again. I'll muddle through this computer issue crap as best I can. Sure hope we get donations for the cause or this could be a very short year.
Anyone letting others know about VIN INFO, ensure you tell them to USE THE THREAD and not to PM me!!!!!!
Same rules as before.
PLEASE READ THE RULES BEFORE YOU BEGIN.
1. The more info you provide the quicker I can find your vehicle. Provide as much of the following as possible:
a. Serial Number (VIN number) ------without dashes or spaces (0123456789 correct, 0123-456789 incorrect)
b. Registration Number -----also without dashes
c. NSN without dashes -----uh, one more time, without dashes
d. Where you bought it
e. Bumper numbers if you can legibly read them
AND IF YOU DON'T KNOW THE NSN, PLEASE LOOK IT UP ON GOOGLE!!!!!! I don't know the NSN for an M151 or M38 or most others. A M35A2 or M35A2 w/w, or all the CUCV series, yes, I know those off the top of my head. Others NO.
And AT LEAST TELL ME WHAT TYPE OF VEHICLE IT IS SUCH AS A M35A2 WITH WINCH, A M105 TRAILER, ETC. I can normally tell but sometimes I have multiple vehicles when working with partial VIN's.
2. My pet peave is putting I (letter india) and O (letter oscar) in your VIN or Registration Number. The military only uses 1 (number one) and 0 (number zero). Flub this and be sent back to the read this. (It's a personal psychological problem that drives me nuts).
3. Don't ask where I get the info from, it doesn't matter and you cannot have access so don't ask.
4. Give me more than just a day or two to answer the mail. I do have a job so in some cases I might not even have time to answer for a few days. I try to handle these on a every other day basis but it doesn't always happen.
5. If I give you info, please make a donation IF and ONLY IF you are capable of doing so and then give what you can, when you can. I know a lot of folks are out of work and short on cash. No problem, I have no tracking mechanism to show who gives and who doesn't. But if you can give, GIVE. Our performance in helping this charity has almost led me to stop doing this thread. VERY embarrassing for out of over 1000 vehicles I've provided info for, we have credit for just over $1000. Try to give $15 per vin provided.
6. My standard disclaimer. I get absolutely no money for any donation. I do this for free and my only gain is the simple fact that your donation goes to a good cause.
7. This thread is intended for the private collector and not for businesses that buy and sell large quantities. If you have one or two vehicles, no problem. If you have a bunch, we need to talk (not saying I won't do it but we need to talk on a PM before you post).
8. ABOVE ALL ELSE, DO NOT PM ME WITH VIN REQUESTS. I am always space challenged in my PM space. If you are significantly worried about your VIN info being posted, please remember your vin number is already out there cause it was posted when the vehicle was sold on GL. It is also available to anyone that wants to do the paperwork to get a list of all vins and reg #'s. It ain't that difficult.
9. I provide the info that I have. The vin info is based on data inputs from the military and if the soldier inputting the information fat fingered the info, then your info will also show that error. You get what I find. The database started around 1971 so the vehicle had to be in service and MORE IMPORTANTLY entered into the database since then. Many units, especially the reserves or national guard, did not start registering their vehicles electronically until many years laters. So it's not just a matter of the vehicle being in service in 1971 but had to be in a unit that did electronic registration before the vehicle was surplused. Some units didn't begin eletronic registration until well into the 1980s. This explains why it is hit or miss.
10. Many will question how vehicles gain so few miles. In many cases these vehicles sit for months or even years awaiting turn in. If a unit gets deployed, the focus is the unit going to war, not turning in old trucks. Even if they aren't deploying, the turn in process is still a low priority over the normal day to day work. Also keep in mind the unit may have 30 or 40 trucks and may normally use 1 or 2 on a routine basis and the rest sit. National Guard has MATES and the Army Reserve has ECS and the Regular Army has the Pre-po program. All these put vehicles into long term storage at which time they do not get many road miles. Not uncommon for them to get 10 miles a year. So don't be surprised if this happens. Mechanics also change the speedos when needed. They are suppose to follow guidelines when this is done to mark the truck. Do they? Very Rarely. During rebuild the mileage is reset. If you want to complain about this, call you congressman, otherwise just be happy. Also, don't forget rule 9 above. If someone fat fingers the mileage on the report.....
11. I can only do Army vehicles. I cannot do USMC, USN, USAF, or USCG. I can do all types of vehicles to include trailers and generators; however, there is only about a 40% chance a specific trailer and generator are in the database.
12. Your vehicle manufacturer will come back as a CAGE CODE; not as a company name. To translate the CAGE Code to a name, do a websearch for BINCS. Currently their website is the following https://www.logisticsinformationserv...in_search.aspx but if this doesn't work, do the websearch on BINCS. As a side note, using BINCS with any vehicle parts manual, can give you the manufacturer and part number.
13. No photos of data plates unless specifically asked to take them and post them. I cut and past the information you put in here into a database search. I can't cut and paste from a photo. Remember this takes me time and I need to keep the amount of time I spend on this to a minimal. VIN numbers should all run together 0123456789, so don't use spaces or dashes. It just slows me down.
14. Do not confuse the serial number for the registration number or the DTID number. The serial number is your VIN. The registration number doesn't really correlate to a civilian equivilent. It is worthless except to maintain historical significance. The DTID number is the defense turn in document number. It is the number the DRMO and GL folks use to track the vehicle through the turn in and sale process. It is worthless. 15/ The month and year at the end of the info is the date of the last record input that I have.
15. You must have your location listed to meet the requirements of being a member. No location, no information.
AGAIN, DON'T PM ME WITH VIN INFO. THAT MAXS OUT MY TORQUE WRENCH. If you do send it to me by PM, don't be surprised if I tell you to reinput the information on the vin info thread. I don't do this via PM.
For M35A2s the location of the frame serial number is shown below but on some former A1 models it is in the same position on the passenger side even if the truck was rebuilt to an A2 model. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/.../paperclip.png Attached Imageshttp://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachm...1&d=1325468281
Anyone letting others know about VIN INFO, ensure you tell them to USE THE THREAD and not to PM me!!!!!!
Same rules as before.
PLEASE READ THE RULES BEFORE YOU BEGIN.
1. The more info you provide the quicker I can find your vehicle. Provide as much of the following as possible:
a. Serial Number (VIN number) ------without dashes or spaces (0123456789 correct, 0123-456789 incorrect)
b. Registration Number -----also without dashes
c. NSN without dashes -----uh, one more time, without dashes
d. Where you bought it
e. Bumper numbers if you can legibly read them
AND IF YOU DON'T KNOW THE NSN, PLEASE LOOK IT UP ON GOOGLE!!!!!! I don't know the NSN for an M151 or M38 or most others. A M35A2 or M35A2 w/w, or all the CUCV series, yes, I know those off the top of my head. Others NO.
And AT LEAST TELL ME WHAT TYPE OF VEHICLE IT IS SUCH AS A M35A2 WITH WINCH, A M105 TRAILER, ETC. I can normally tell but sometimes I have multiple vehicles when working with partial VIN's.
2. My pet peave is putting I (letter india) and O (letter oscar) in your VIN or Registration Number. The military only uses 1 (number one) and 0 (number zero). Flub this and be sent back to the read this. (It's a personal psychological problem that drives me nuts).
3. Don't ask where I get the info from, it doesn't matter and you cannot have access so don't ask.
4. Give me more than just a day or two to answer the mail. I do have a job so in some cases I might not even have time to answer for a few days. I try to handle these on a every other day basis but it doesn't always happen.
5. If I give you info, please make a donation IF and ONLY IF you are capable of doing so and then give what you can, when you can. I know a lot of folks are out of work and short on cash. No problem, I have no tracking mechanism to show who gives and who doesn't. But if you can give, GIVE. Our performance in helping this charity has almost led me to stop doing this thread. VERY embarrassing for out of over 1000 vehicles I've provided info for, we have credit for just over $1000. Try to give $15 per vin provided.
6. My standard disclaimer. I get absolutely no money for any donation. I do this for free and my only gain is the simple fact that your donation goes to a good cause.
7. This thread is intended for the private collector and not for businesses that buy and sell large quantities. If you have one or two vehicles, no problem. If you have a bunch, we need to talk (not saying I won't do it but we need to talk on a PM before you post).
8. ABOVE ALL ELSE, DO NOT PM ME WITH VIN REQUESTS. I am always space challenged in my PM space. If you are significantly worried about your VIN info being posted, please remember your vin number is already out there cause it was posted when the vehicle was sold on GL. It is also available to anyone that wants to do the paperwork to get a list of all vins and reg #'s. It ain't that difficult.
9. I provide the info that I have. The vin info is based on data inputs from the military and if the soldier inputting the information fat fingered the info, then your info will also show that error. You get what I find. The database started around 1971 so the vehicle had to be in service and MORE IMPORTANTLY entered into the database since then. Many units, especially the reserves or national guard, did not start registering their vehicles electronically until many years laters. So it's not just a matter of the vehicle being in service in 1971 but had to be in a unit that did electronic registration before the vehicle was surplused. Some units didn't begin eletronic registration until well into the 1980s. This explains why it is hit or miss.
10. Many will question how vehicles gain so few miles. In many cases these vehicles sit for months or even years awaiting turn in. If a unit gets deployed, the focus is the unit going to war, not turning in old trucks. Even if they aren't deploying, the turn in process is still a low priority over the normal day to day work. Also keep in mind the unit may have 30 or 40 trucks and may normally use 1 or 2 on a routine basis and the rest sit. National Guard has MATES and the Army Reserve has ECS and the Regular Army has the Pre-po program. All these put vehicles into long term storage at which time they do not get many road miles. Not uncommon for them to get 10 miles a year. So don't be surprised if this happens. Mechanics also change the speedos when needed. They are suppose to follow guidelines when this is done to mark the truck. Do they? Very Rarely. During rebuild the mileage is reset. If you want to complain about this, call you congressman, otherwise just be happy. Also, don't forget rule 9 above. If someone fat fingers the mileage on the report.....
11. I can only do Army vehicles. I cannot do USMC, USN, USAF, or USCG. I can do all types of vehicles to include trailers and generators; however, there is only about a 40% chance a specific trailer and generator are in the database.
12. Your vehicle manufacturer will come back as a CAGE CODE; not as a company name. To translate the CAGE Code to a name, do a websearch for BINCS. Currently their website is the following https://www.logisticsinformationserv...in_search.aspx but if this doesn't work, do the websearch on BINCS. As a side note, using BINCS with any vehicle parts manual, can give you the manufacturer and part number.
13. No photos of data plates unless specifically asked to take them and post them. I cut and past the information you put in here into a database search. I can't cut and paste from a photo. Remember this takes me time and I need to keep the amount of time I spend on this to a minimal. VIN numbers should all run together 0123456789, so don't use spaces or dashes. It just slows me down.
14. Do not confuse the serial number for the registration number or the DTID number. The serial number is your VIN. The registration number doesn't really correlate to a civilian equivilent. It is worthless except to maintain historical significance. The DTID number is the defense turn in document number. It is the number the DRMO and GL folks use to track the vehicle through the turn in and sale process. It is worthless. 15/ The month and year at the end of the info is the date of the last record input that I have.
15. You must have your location listed to meet the requirements of being a member. No location, no information.
AGAIN, DON'T PM ME WITH VIN INFO. THAT MAXS OUT MY TORQUE WRENCH. If you do send it to me by PM, don't be surprised if I tell you to reinput the information on the vin info thread. I don't do this via PM.
For M35A2s the location of the frame serial number is shown below but on some former A1 models it is in the same position on the passenger side even if the truck was rebuilt to an A2 model. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/.../paperclip.png Attached Imageshttp://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachm...1&d=1325468281
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