1953 M37 Carb Flooding. Assistance needed.

I have a 1953 M37 that i recently acquired from a friend, it was in need a carb rebuild so i got a good rebuild kit and spent about a week cleaning and rebuilding the carb i'm farely certain everything is in it's right place, the carb is flooding the intake bad and i can't figure out why. I tested the needle and seat by blowing through it and it is seating good not letting any air in, i also put an inline pressure regulator on the fuel line after the pump and before the carb in order to make sure there wasn't too much pressure and it still floods. The carb is an ETW1, it had an E7T2 on it that ethanol gas set in for a couple of years and basically ruined it, since he had the ETW1 sitting on the shelf i took it and rebuilt it. I sprayed starter fluid down the throat and she will run off starter fluid without much of a problem, i know i will need to change the oil bc of gas, i took the PCV valve off so the gas can escape when it floods instead of pouring into the crankcase. I'm at a loss, it was running and driving great before it set up. Also could someone please look at the pics and make sure everything on the outside looks right, i wasn't a hundred percent sure on the governor connection to the body throttle linkage as i went back to the ETW1 from the E7T2. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Go to NAPA and buy a Viton tipped needle (part #2-3516 ) it stopped my flooding problem

Viton tip needle a good idea, also recheck float level, sound like it's set too high.

Frank

Thanks Bill and Roller, I will pick one up today, hopefully Napa has one in stock locally. Also, the float being set too high, I did not have the specs for the float adjustment but did not change it when I pulled the carb apart, what specs should I be using with the Viton needle and seat? Thanks again.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1015269 5/64 gap is the advertised setting

This is rare but something I have seen back in the "good old days". Check the float and make sure the soldered joints are not letting gas get inside which causes the float not to rise and close the needle on the seat. Also again float level setting is critical and will change by switching to a new needle and seat or simply by changing the gasket. Electric fuel pumps and pump pressure can also be problematic on the M37's too.

I'll check it all out today, I did get a new needle and seat from napa, I haven't tried it out yet, my plan is to get OT running again then rebuild the Factory fuel pump bc I do not like electric fuel pumps. Thanks again for the replies

Still no luck, as soon as I try to turn the ol girl over she starts pouring gas out of the intake, I put another new needle and seat from Napa on there, turned the fuel pressure way down and she still pours gas. I have also taken the carb off twice and adjusted the float to 5/64ths if I blow through the fuel inlet no air gets past, I'm just lost, anyone know of someone in Alabama that I can take her to or enlist in coming to help!

Should not need the inline fuel pressure regulator with a stock pump. I would bypass the regulator next.

Frank

It's not a stock pump, it's a 12v aftermarket pump, I just put the regulator on there a couple days ago bio rule out the fuel pump pushing past the needle, I've known the vehicle for about 5 years and it's always had that pump, I would like to take OT off and run the stock pump after I get the flooding under control

Seems you have one of those odd but true situations on your hands. When you do get it figured out please post what you found.

Try setting your float lower, the ETW1 is rated for 4 1/4psi fuel pressure, I've run it as high as 6.5psi with no difference. When you had the float out did you shake it to see/hear if gas might have leaked past the soldered seams and into it ( as mentioned earlier ).

After re-reading posts, is the electric pump inline and run through the stock fuel/vac pump? If so, is it possible that the internals of the stock have failed due to inline pumps pressure and the gas is entering the manifold via the vacuum line?

No, the electric pump is ran straight from the tank with 2 inline filters, all the flooding happened after the rebuild, I guess it's possible I put something back together wrong, but not sure how, I followed directions, I will try to set the float lower and I did check for gas in the float and do not hear anything, I also removed the top of the carb and turned the pump on and watched fuel flow into the carb and it shut off when the float rose, should the gas cover everything in the carb? I'll try to take pictures when I get back to it this evening of what I mean. Thanks again for your assistance!

Not sure if anyone can see these pictures or even if they help but the bowl doesn't seem to be flooded

She's still flooding and i cannot figure out why. Not a hundred percent sure on my rebuild i bought a freshly rebuilt carb from Vintage Powerwagons. Got the carb in today, tried to crank and it immediately flooded the engine just as before. I tried both needles and seats i pulled the carb with everything still connected and set it off to the side and turned the fuel pump on and no fuel was running out of the bottom of the carb, put it back over the intake and as soon as i engage the starter it floods right away, every time no matter which carburetor or what. Anyone got any ideas? thanks again.

I would check the base gasket. Here is a picture of the correct gasket from the G741 site (2nd from the left is the correct one).

Bert

I'm relatively sure that's the base gasket I have, I know I have 3 of them, one from the first rebuild kit, one from vintage powerwagons and one that was on there originally, the original base gasket was not very thick at all, the other 2 are pretty thick, i'll look at them this evening to make a hundred percent sure it has the 4 notches. Thanks for the info.

Looks like I have the correct base gasket on there, has the correct notches