Head stud issues

While I was swapping out my heads I decided to upgrade my head studs to the ARP studs. I ordered the studs mentioned in the post below.

Section8 said:

I don't know how to cut and past here so I just wrote it down and re post here. Its all Rustystud 's info.

Part numbers for head bolts and studs for multifuel engines from ARP.
The stud are all 9/16"

The 6.160" long stud is #AQ6.120-1LB. Priced at $11.50 each.

The 6.380" long stud is #AQ6.500-1LB. Priced at $12.34 each.

The 2.620" long stud doesn't have an exact match but is closest and should work fine. The part is #AQ3.475-1LB. Priced at $6.58 each.

Heavy duty washers are part #200-8515. Priced at $o.96 each.

The nuts are 12 pointers and are part #300-8305. Priced at $8.44 each.

Grand total for full set from ARP including studs, washers and nuts would run $570 ish plus shipping.
If you used your own nuts and washers 350 ish.

If you would like to see the original post check outs reds cool build thread as previously posted.

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The two longer studs are the same overall length as the originals, the problem is they each have approximately half an inch more threads on the block end. With them fully run down into the block they sit just higher than flush with the too of the heads.

Due to damage to the old studs during removal I had to make due with what I had. I backed out the studs until I could install the nuts. They have the same thread engagement as the old studs but arent bottomed out in the block.

I used spray on copper sealant on one piece head gaskets and everything torqued down right. After about 500 miles I torque checked the nuts and none moved. It runs night and day better, lower exhaust temp and more power allowing me to hold a gear on hills longer before down shifting. No more oil or exhust leaks from the head gasket

So far the only obvious problem is after a long drive I get coolant comming up through the threads of the head studs. It beads up on top of the stud between the stud and nut. It only does this on three studs. So far no transfer between oil and coolant.

Would the smart thing be to get longer studs? Or would these work as long as I dont put a bigger turbo on? If I do swap out the studs would I have to pull everything apart or could I swap them one at a time?

Could you cut down the studs that are too long and swap them into the holes where studs are leaking?

Make sure you don't overheat the studs you shorten!

the ones that are leaking are the longest ones.

I was talking about the arp studs that you said were too long.

Maybe pull the 3 that leak and use thread sealant or locktite.

The overall length of th ARP studs was the same as the original studs. The problem is the threads on the ARP studs allow them to be threaded into the block about half an inch deeper than the original studs. That is why I had to back them out about half an inch to install the nuts

Sounds like you might be bolt shopping or trying thread sealant.

Yep, it's leaching up the threads!
Sounds like the easiest fix is thread sealant. Take one at a time out, seal it, and re-install and re-torque. Make sure it cures up well before firing her up.

I've had FAR better luck with loctite than thread sealant where coolant is involved. Especially on those cases where the hole is a little sloppy and the thread sealant doesn't stay put.

Do you think that you can remove the affected studs and loctite them only or will you need to redo the head gaskets? I'd love to refit my multi with the better studs but don't want to waste a set of gaskets.

TB58 said:

W After about 500 miles I torque checked the nuts and none moved.

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The LDS manual does say that, if a nut doesn't turn, it should be backed off and retorqued.

I used Loctite on my studs when I reinstalled them, no leaks.

When I talked with the "ARP" tech he said to use their thread sealant. Of course any good sealant would work. I also prefer "Loctite" brand.
Also when torqueing the nuts I would use the "ARP" brand torque lube they sell.

So the studs not being fully seated isnt an issue? Any problem removing one stud at a time rather than pull everything? I will get on this as soon as I can and see where it gets me. Thank you everyone for thr input.

To be honest I didnt see where the TM caled for a torque check, I just did it to see if that was the cause of the leaks, I will look that up and do it properly.

I don't care if someone says "you can't do that", I'd pull one out at a time to seal and see if it works compared to all the work and expense of doing it a second time. You really have nothing to loose.

Haha thats a very good point

Loctite makes a semi solid thread adhesive. It looks like a large lip stick tube. I would remove them one at a time and apply that and reinstall them. Using a proper lube is critical to get the tension load for the gaskets Rustystuds advice for using the ARP lube is correct.

gimpyrobb said:

I don't care if someone says "you can't do that", I'd pull one out at a time to seal and see if it works compared to all the work and expense of doing it a second time. You really have nothing to loose.

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I think it would work, as long as you went over all the bolts and retorqued them in proper sequence.

TB58 said:

So the studs not being fully seated isnt an issue? Any problem removing one stud at a time rather than pull everything? I will get on this as soon as I can and see where it gets me. Thank you everyone for thr input.

To be honest I didnt see where the TM caled for a torque check, I just did it to see if that was the cause of the leaks, I will look that up and do it properly.

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Actually the studs are suppose to "float" in the block. What I mean by that is they are not to be installed tight to the block but installed loosely, finger tight. You still have the same amount of "thread" contact.