Positive Camber

When looking at my M998 last night, it seems to have a health dose of positive camber. Does this appear to be correct to you guys? I think there's maybe a bit of an optical illusion with the picture, since when I parked in a few other areas, the positive camber didn't look as pronounced. In any case, what are your thoughts on the pic? Also, when I hit "return" to add space to another paragraph in a post, it's not working when I submit the thread...it's just being posted all smashed together...anyone know how to fix that as well?

Hang enough armor on it it will clear that right up

remove shims between upper control arm and frame to reach desired stance. Directions are in the manuals.

Mine has the same camber, and it caught my attention as well.

Do I interpret your responses to WM's question to indicate that we should adjust the shims to accommodate our current lack of heavy loading? I take this to mean that our HMMWVs once had heavy equipment, but don't now and should be re-calibrated. Is that right?

Bulldogger

These truck are preloaded at the factory, your camber is normal. If you want to correct, remove the shims behind the buckets...but good luck, the rears are a total B***h.
It's all labor...an alignment for a HMMWV is mucho expensive if taken to a shop.

Thanks to all for the replies.

Tire Discounters did mine. They had it for over a week. They have to take it apart, ad/remove shims, put back together, check again, repeat as necessary. The TM states when thickness of shims will change how many degrees.
The manual also states that as the tires wear down on the outside, we are to flip the tire on the rim, so the other side will wear down.

Usually 2 1/8 inch shims removed/added equally from front and rear of adjustment bolts will change camber 1 full degree. Give or take a tenth of a degree. This is usually the guideline on alignments.

Action said:

Tire Discounters did mine. They had it for over a week. They have to take it apart, ad/remove shims, put back together, check again, repeat as necessary. The TM states when thickness of shims will change how many degrees.
The manual also states that as the tires wear down on the outside, we are to flip the tire on the rim, so the other side will wear down.

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Did you end up removing all the shims to straighten it up? Or are there still some in there?

My front tires are straight up. I told them I will rarely have weight in the back and to do them the same. Well, I got it back, and the rear tops still stick out some. They used the specs for the H1. I will remove some shims later this year when it cools down.

Mine has the same camber as you also. But as soon as you add a load it straights out so I never bothered to adjust it and I haven't had any unusual tire wear.

Which manual.

The local National Guard told me the tops come in some with speed, too.

Action said:

The local National Guard told me the tops come in some with speed, too.

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That would make sense. There is a weight transfer when you are moving that would tend to push the rear down and should straighten out the angle. That is the reason why virtually no vehicle alignment specs are zero because they change when the vehicle is in motion. Positive camber is better suited for off road use anyway.

I also read in one of the manuals that if one side of the tire gets worn, flip that tire on that wheel. It will then wear the other half.

I changed out all of my ball joints, shocks, radius rods etc. and am now experiencing this problem on the rear. Any thoughts as to why that is?

germanrifle said:

I changed out all of my ball joints, shocks, radius rods etc. and am now experiencing this problem on the rear. Any thoughts as to why that is?

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Because you should always get an alignment after replacing suspension and steering parts.

Main issue was the rear shims. Alignment had virtually nothing to do with the positive camber.

So you did remove shims and this cured your problem?

Correct. When I replaced all the suspension parts, it put the truck back to factory spec. A total of about 12 shims were removed. That allowed the arms to lower and removed the present camber. I was then able to get normal alignment. With all those shims it was impossible. Those were added for distribution of some serious weight. We left one on each arm as I have an airlift bumper and plan to add a tire carrier and 4 jerry can holder. It cost about 300 but was worth every penny. Especially with the cost of tires and me not having to worry about finding big air tools or worrying about crushing myself. That included a lot of playing around with the suspension to remove the correct amount of shims and a spec alignment too. I took it to a big truck shop that dealt with big stuff. Made it much easier. They had the space, lifts and tools. Truck shops apparently deal with our older suspension set-up often. Plus they were more than happy to work on the m998. Something different.