What now?? Fuel pump?

So I finally finished with the solenoid mod, rebuilt starter, rear bracket, etc on the m1009 that I recently purchased. In another thread I mentioned that it quit running a day after I test drove it and the starter was fried.

After the fixes today the truck cranked up pretty easily. I let it run for a minute while I looked it over. So finally after about a minute it sputters and stops. Try to start again. No joy.

So I start looking around and there's fuel dripping from the front of the engine. It looks like the location of a Chevy mechanical fuel pump...in fact I can see something that looks like a fuel pump. So is that the pump, and do they leak when they fail? I've never had a mechanical pump failure on my gas cars.

Thanks for any advise you can provide. I thought I had this thing ready for the road, dang.

Yes in fact they do leak when they fail. It is fairly easy part to replace. i do mine from the top side. I disconnect the batteries and remove the right alternator and brackets. But you may do which ever way is best for you. Just make sure you get the right pump the first time. I have bought the wrong pumps from 3 differnt places. NAPA just about a month ago sold me the incorrect pump. The pump arm can have no free play. The pumping action must begin immediately when the arm is compressed.Side by side. The one on the left is incorrect. The right is correct. Notice the arm length and curvature. The correct one has a short straight arm. Right one has immediate resistance. The left one has a 1/2"-3/4" free play before resistance. Top wrong curvature in lift arm. Bottom short straight arm. Notice orange spring under arm on top one. No spring on bottom one. Left is wrong NO spring in top rear of pump housing. Left spring is visible in the rear top of pump housing. Trust me I thought it was a worn lobe on a cam. It was like this on 2 vehicle and I noted the change immediately after I contacted Dephi pumps. I bought the correct Delphi pump from a GM dealer it was less then $50. I just eyeball them now. I know what the correct one looks like. NAPA sold the incorrect one last time. I went to the GM dealer again and bought the correct one. I hope that helps. You want to do it once and done. Second time is always worse. Good Luck. I have a few tips if you need them. i can change one in about 45 minutes start to finish. And in about an hour in 10 degree weather and snowing. Ask how I know that?

Thank you friend! I just cancelled an order for the wrong pump. I don't need any more frustration. I'll take your advice and remove the alternator. The thought of fuel dropping on me from the bottom sounds like no fun.

Is it possible to clamp off the fuel line to keep it from running everywhere?

If it's original fuel line, I'd say just replace it while you're in there. You can pinch it off with special pliers, but you never know if you are damaging it internally on hose that old. You can just jam a permanent marker, or spark plug in it like we do at work for random fuel lines. Whatever you have on hand to keep it from dripping .

I don't have fuel leaking when I remove the feed line. And I still have original fuel line. that Z bend is very hard to duplicate. It takes a lot more line. So if it don't leak don't replace it. i would trim the end at most. I just installed the original fuel line on me truck i am rebuilding. It looks fine and vacuum tested so back on. I have made replacement feed lines but they work better if you can get a more direct feed. Not the problem you are having now. But take the push rod cover plate off the block after you have the fuel pump off. That gasket is $1.99 and easy to replace. Put a glob of grease on the push rod and push it back in the block. It will stay there then. Reinstall the cover plate and let the M6 bolts loose. Then hand start the metal feed line and just let it loose. Start the 2 3/8" bolts on the fuel pump and wiggle it to get them started. Tighten everything at once after you put the rubber feed line back on. I think it is that easy. I done it so many times it just comes natural. On the front of the block it may help to take the short M10 bolt out that holds the return line clamp and the main fuel in to the front block. Good Luck. Report back.

Buy a ACDELCO or Delphi pump.
The pump is not fun to change. It's not hard, just a PITA.

I used a pump the parts store had in stock just to get engine going initially.
Typical no name china junk.
Pump lasted a whole two weeks.

Replaced it with ACDelco and it's been trouble free for almost 2 years now.

Tinstar said:

Buy a ACDELCO or Delphi pump.
Replaced it with ACDelco and it's been trouble free for almost 2 years now.

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Thanks. That's what I ended up ordering. I ordered two actually. I've started getting two of everything for this truck. I assumed the $15 Airtex pump was probably junk.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-43254-Original-Equipment-Mechanical/dp/B000C9MGMO

HelluvaEngineer said:

Thanks. That's what I ended up ordering. I ordered two actually. I've started getting two of everything for this truck. I assumed the $15 Airtex pump was probably junk.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-43254-Original-Equipment-Mechanical/dp/B000C9MGMO

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Bingo!
If I'm not in a hurry for parts, I use Amazon.

Two of everything is always a good idea.
Been doing that myself for a while now.

HelluvaEngineer said:

I've started getting two of everything for this truck.

Click to expand...

Yeah me too.

Inline primer bulb

I could swear I read a thread about using an inline marine primer bulb to prime the fuel system. Is there any reason this is a *bad* idea? Can it be left inline? Do it before or after the filter?

I just bought a 5/8 marine bulb and I don't want to make a huge mistake.

OK, so I solved this mystery. I was starting to remove the old pump and I realized that the inlet line had no hose clamp on it! Put one on the the leak is gone. But now there's a bunch of air in the line and I can't seem to get it primed. I just started another thread about the possibility of using an inline primer.

I hooked up my Mitivac to the small port on the fuel filter and that got a lot out. Still a bunch of bubbles and my batteries are hurting. Charging those now.

I think that was me that started that thread years ago. I installed one on each of my trucks more than ten years ago. I use them when changing fuel filters and when the wife has ran them out of fuel. You can prime the system with out draining batteries and overheating starters. I put them between the lift pump and the Fuel filter. I use the 3/8 size. $8 dollars at wal-mart

Thanks. I'm still getting a ton of air in the system. It looks like I need to tear the whole thing apart anyway since after the last attempt at starting it I noticed there is fuel on the ground. It's maddening. I guess I need to replace the hoses and I may just put on a screw on filter at the same time.

Filter base option

Sorry I've been bombarding this forum today.

After all the nonsense I've experienced today with the fuel lift system, I'm thinking about ripping old parts and fuel lines out, tossing them over my shoulder and replacing everything.

I know this base is made in China (like pretty much everything). I like the idea of the manual primer pump and a vent screw on the top. Any opinions?

edited as per site rule
Thanks guys.

Be sure to check the rubber lines that come from the fuel tank sending unit. They love to suck air in there. I was in your shoes once. I replaced every rubber line because I got tired of chasing fuel leaks. There used to be a saying on the forum about CUCV's. It was "if it's rubber replace it!"

I think that's where I'm headed. I just got out a spray bottle of degreaser and did an initial de-funking of the engine in preparation of pulling stuff off. This truck is sitting in my driveway near Atlanta, in 85 degree heat, so my patience is wearing very thin.

Hopefully I can find a fuel system diagram in the TM pdfs. It's a pain to search through them, mostly because I'm not familiar with them.

ken said:

I think that was me that started that thread years ago. I installed one on each of my trucks more than ten years ago. I use them when changing fuel filters and when the wife has ran them out of fuel. You can prime the system with out draining batteries and overheating starters. I put them between the lift pump and the Fuel filter. I use the 3/8 size. $8 dollars at wal-mart

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I finally found the reference you made!

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...uel-filter-mod&p=397732&viewfull=1#post397732

Chinese have Diesel engines. I have a few that I have no problems with. They are exact duplicates of Yanmar. So being made in China has no reflection of value. Many GM parts are made in China. ( Mainland ). Have at it. I seen the palm prime pump on Isuzu chassis for years and they work well. I use them when new trucks run out of fuel. I think you are onto something. Just loosing out on the water in fuel sensor and the fuel heater that is in the stock Stanadyne unit. Good Luck. keep posting. At least you are doing something.

I have some of the stanadyne fm100 filter kits. Ive sold over 100 to the folks here on SS and i am getting ready to put one on my civi 2000 chevy with the 6.5.

A quick search should bring up threads about the fm100 with pics.