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Thread: To blast or not .. and then what. Professional advice sought

  1. #11
    In memorial Ron - 73M819 Robo McDuff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDToumanian View Post
    I would replace those doors rather than waste time repairing that cancer...

    Jon
    I am waiting for a price quote on "door assembly left" from Reomie.

    door assembly.jpeg

    Problem is, then it would be nice/better to do the windows as well etc etc and you end up ordering a whole new cabin before you realize that you don't have the $$ to pay for it.

    But yes, if the price is acceptable, I will go for it, doors always are a pain.
    M51A2 - M52A2 dual purpose truck, waiting for a double brake circuit conversion

    The Soca / Izonso Front, also known as the the Forgotten Front of WW1


    Czech Emigration Museum - Cold War, US Army Engineers in Europe exhibition in preparation



    Our historic blacksmith workshop in Nove Hrady, Czech Republic



  2. #12
    Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuce Doctor. Steel Soldiers Vendor clinto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robo McDuff View Post
    Do you have a quick link to the restoration of the 67 M35A2?


    No, I don't like doing "build" threads until I'm actually done. If you look at the majority of build threads on automotive forums, they're unfinished and everyone loses attention before they're done. I'll do one once I paint the '87 next year, because it's 90% done (front winch, rear winch, 12V standalone system, dual A3 seats, A3 shoulder belts, reverse lights, etc.). Like I said, now that I have a place to keep it out of the sun and rain, I can paint it.

    20170618_164122.jpg20170619_180936.jpg

    I'm in the same boat with the '67. Don't wanna' put a thread until it's done and it's kind of in a holding pattern. I can't bring myself to do all this work and put a used engine in it. NOS can multifuels really got expensive in the last few years, to the point that I'm considering re-powering it with something else. I've already bought most of the stuff (wiring, brakes, data plates, etc.) but if I could get an engine, the project would make a bug jump forward.

    20131106_225116.jpg20131106_182942.jpg20131106_185446.jpgIMAG1847800x600.jpgIMAG1926800x600.jpgIMAG1749800x600.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Robo McDuff View Post
    I am waiting for a price quote on "door assembly left" from Reomie.

    door assembly.jpeg

    Problem is, then it would be nice/better to do the windows as well etc etc and you end up ordering a whole new cabin before you realize that you don't have the $$ to pay for it.

    But yes, if the price is acceptable, I will go for it, doors always are a pain.
    I realize you're on the other side of the planet, but I have NOS doors that are complete (glass, weatherstripping, etc.) on the rally buy/sell/trade thread. Maybe you need to come to the rally and take one home as carry on luggage: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...=1#post2056192
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  3. #13
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    Citristrip...about 100 gallons worth...that truck has a lot of real estate to blast...

  4. #14
    PSVB 3003 SCSG-G4's Avatar
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    The zinc coating is for a 100+ year restoration. Using Rustoleum rusty metal primer in slightly rusty metal (wire brush on a drill) will seal things for your lifetime and probably beyond (Sto Lat), then you can use whatever paint you want as a top coat. Since much of the original paint was semi-gloss, a light sandblasting will roughen the surface enough for the next layer of paint to adhere properly.

    A needle scaler is an air powered tool with about 15 or so rods in a tight bundle that is driven by pulses of compressed air against the surface being worked on. it is very good for getting into corners where a rotary wire brush will not reach. Do not use on aluminum, and large flat surfaces can take a lot of time!
    Mike KK4AIF

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  6. #15
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    Default My thoughts and methods

    I've been reading some of the new and old threads. Gosh, methods for metal preparation are many and varying depending on paint type and thickness you are trying to remove. Basically, I use two methods, scaling and blasting. The needle scaler is my main stay method. Sand blasting becomes inefficient when you have 1/8 inch thick paint to remove. Also, you can blast into hard to reach areas. Plus you will damage things if you do not take the parts off the truck to be sand blasted. Needle scaling will not damage seals, rubber, plastic etc... You can control the pinging and scaling force with air pressure. Needle scaling goes faster than you think. So I blast or scale as needed. I disassemble my truck body parts as needed. The seams and fastening points is where the rust and corrosion began. If plan to do a complete restoration, I'm going to take things apart. You can needle scale to a perfect metal surface for painting. Go to Harbor Freight and buy the small needle scaler $29.95. Run at 90 to 100 lb max. Anything over 100lbs of pressure will wear out the needles and needle holder internals. Use your bench grinder to keep the needles sharpened "flat" round. NOT a point! It's the 360 degree sharp edge that does the work.

    Now, Ospho and/or Loctite Extend like to be applied to bare metal rust. I'm talking about clean rust that is created after a spraying washing or rain storm. Natures rusting method is the best! Let the metal rust for a week or two. You don't apply Extend to bare shiny metal. I think Ospho can be applied either/or, but works best with light rust. Read the instructions for both products. I guess it is the nitrogen and other chemistry of rain that makes the beneficial rust for Ospho, Gem, or "Extend". I use Loctite Extend on parts and areas that I do not want to contaminate with Ospho. It would not be cost effective to use "Extend" on massive or total coverage areas (i.e., like a complete finder well, or cab. Extend is good for seams and metal frame joints etc...

    In conclusion, professional preparation is just hard time-consuming work! Sometimes there is not super-fast way to move the job along. Ten people with needle scalers in hand are like "ants" on cake!
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    I restore and fabricate for hobby and enjoyment. There is no time schedule, that would ruin the total experience. I buy new sets of parts when it makes sense for me. I will make my own parts if I need too. Like shock-absorber pins (see pics). See anything special about the cab? I could die tomorrow, so I better post something to help others with. I've amassed pictures and HOW-TO videos on this entire build. It takes time to edit video making it concise and to the point. Maybe I'll find time to post some of it this fall. I'm not going to worry about it though. Take it for what it's worth! There is no final paint job until everything is put back together. There's going to be scratches and handling marks on everything that goes back together. In the case of this XM818 build, layers of paint has caused serious problems with everything that opens & closes. (e.g., doors, hood, tool box doors etc...) Clearances are gone! Screw threads are blobs of paint.

    Yeah, I added 7-1/2" to the cab. Now I can install those Hemtt air-ride bucket seats. A big 6'-5" 350 pound fat boy can drive this baby when its finished. You won't be able to tell there has been a modification of the cab. Shoot, I've got to have room for that Red Dot AC blower.
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  10. #17
    In memorial Ron - 73M819 Robo McDuff's Avatar
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    I talked with my garage people who also painted my NSU motor cycle (know them for over 20 years). The guy doing the actual paint work, to my surprise, also said that doing the zinc is a good way of trowing away money. He would go for sand blasting, than primer, filler on top of that, and than the final paint work UNLESS I really really very much wanted to do a ground-up restoration.

    He also said its getting too cold already for that this year unless I get 5 people to help me and get everything ready and painted in the next five days or so.

    Without the zinc, and without time pressure of getting it ready yesterday, getting the parts blasted will not be very expensive.

    I will use the winter period to get the simple body parts repaired and blasted, while the truck will be under a new roof.

    Below the fender. It has some small holes on the front, rust in the strengthening line/weld underneath and the whole strip to connect the fender to the heavier frame side parts that have the air connectors is missing (see yellow line).



    M51A2 2017 09 fender off _002-cr.JPGM51A2 2017 09 fender off _024-cf.JPGM51A2 2017 09 fender off _026-cr.jpgM51A2 2017 09 fender off _026-crl.jpgM51A2 2017 09 fender off _003-cr2.JPG

    Door is even worse, on both sides the lower front parts of the door both inside and outside are more or less gone. If I cannot get a good price on decent doors in the Netherlands, we will remake the entire lower 4" of each door, inside and outside.

    M51A2 2017 09 fender off _017-cr.JPG
    Last edited by Robo McDuff; 09-25-2017 at 17:45.
    M51A2 - M52A2 dual purpose truck, waiting for a double brake circuit conversion

    The Soca / Izonso Front, also known as the the Forgotten Front of WW1


    Czech Emigration Museum - Cold War, US Army Engineers in Europe exhibition in preparation



    Our historic blacksmith workshop in Nove Hrady, Czech Republic



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  12. #18
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    Looks like your cab structure is gone. You can rebuild it, or replace the whole cab. Patching with filler or tin steel is not going to work. I bet your electrical is in bad shape too. I would find a truck in better condition and use this one for backup parts. Sorry!

  13. #19
    In memorial Ron - 73M819 Robo McDuff's Avatar
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    I restored way worse when as a student restoring old Volvos and an old Mercedes 508 Postbus made into a camper. The cab structure is a question of taking a high-speed angle grinder with cutting blade, take out the rotten stuff well back into solid steel, then remodel the missing structure (rocker panel?) and weld it in. These are mostly simple and straight pieces, not like a historic car with rounded parts all over the place.

    For the doors and rocker panels, I will use 19 gauge (1 mm) sheet metal and for the fenders and reinforcement a bit thicker. With standing in a blacksmith workshop yard and one master blacksmith and two apprentices running around doing historic restorations (including parts for steam trains occasionally) even if I fail, they should be able to help me with it.
    M51A2 - M52A2 dual purpose truck, waiting for a double brake circuit conversion

    The Soca / Izonso Front, also known as the the Forgotten Front of WW1


    Czech Emigration Museum - Cold War, US Army Engineers in Europe exhibition in preparation



    Our historic blacksmith workshop in Nove Hrady, Czech Republic



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