mep 806b shuts down!

Good afternoon, I picked up an mep 806b from you know where? Love that site. I got it running, under a 1000 hours, looks beautiful and complete, the usual drained and dead batteries. It was on a 3000 gph ROWPU semi trailer and set up for 416volts. I was cleaning and checking everything out and noticed the voltage selection switch, I switched it from 416vac to 208vac. Once running I just couldn't get any voltage to come up on the screen, I ended up switching that back to 416 vac and ended up with 416 volts at the screen.

Wow, works perfect i said, switched the toggle back to 208vac while running and she dies with a high voltage warning on the screen. I initially tried to run the gen on the 208vac selection, reading about holding the start switch a bit longer to excite the field, voltage appeared but spiked and shut the gen down with high voltage warning.

I'm a bit new to the these controls and have major ADD so it's tricky to get through a TM, any tips please would be greatly appreciated. I do have the TM on my smart phone which is awsome, is there a section on how to switch from 416v to 208v?

It sounds to me like you're Just flipping the toggle switch behind the control panel. I believe that the 208 / 416 switch only tells the electronics what to Expect out of the genset.

To actually reconfigure the genset, you have to switch the re-connection board.

Ok, photos: This beastie is properly outputting 120 / 208 @ 60 Hz.



Cheers!!

Franko

What year was your 806B built?

Does it have a 50 AMP circuit breaker by the alternator, like this?



If it does, then the only "readiness" problem that I have found has been fixed. If not, then you'll need to make some changes as described on page 5.8 of the TB 11-6115-741-24:

(This problem occurs when using Optima batteries, which can draw more current than the charging system was designed to handle. The original system had a fuse, which blows & causes the genset to consume power from the batteries until they are drained, causing a shutdown.)

TECHNICAL BULLETIN

FIELD AND SUSTAINMENTMAINTENANCE (D, F, H)FORFAMILY OF TQG GENERATORS2k THRU 200k GENERATOR SETSTACTICAL GENERATOR DESERT OPERATIONSSPECIAL TEST, INSPECTION, AND REPAIRREQUIREMENTS

5.5 Control Power Circuit modification 30-60 kW "B" model Tactical Quiet Generator Sets MEP-805B,MEP-815B, MEP-806B, MEP-816B5.5 Scope:The MEP-805B, MEP-815B, MEP-806B, MEP-816B, models of the Tactical Quiet Generator (TQG)family of generator sets have a readiness problem. The problem is the loss of DC control power during missionoperations. The power loss is caused by a blown fuse located in battery charging circuit between the alternator andthe batteries. While the generator set is operating, the source of the DC control power is the battery chargingalternator. When the fuse blows, the source of generator set DC control power becomes the batteries until availablebattery power is consumed. With no DC control power, the generator set shuts down. This modification is designedto eliminate the battery charging fuse from the DC control power circuit. This will prevent generator set shutdownand mission failure due to drained batteries. These modification instructions are authority to modify the generatorset until the formal design change documentation is approved and disseminated to the field.

120 / 240 Single Phase

Lastly, I will (hopefully) save you some time if you've seen the YouTube videos about converting the 805A / 806A gensets to 120 / 240 Single Phase. Those sets have a 12 lead alternator head that makes this modification possible. Our sets have a 10 lead alternator head & that modification is not possible (as far as I know) for this system.

That said, my entire house (3 a/c systems, stove, oven, electric clothes dryer, etc.) operated perfectly at 208. Check the spec tags on the outdoor condensers - if they say 208/240, then you're good to go.

Cheers!!

Franko

Watch this video first, and remember that set is capable of 200 amp from each leg.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iKD7vuq-rY

next is the reading and setting up part, and dont skip the ground rod, its the thing that sends the angry pixie's somewhere else, rather than thru your body go get to ground.

http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/search.mpl?q=806b&Search=Search

start off by opening the ARMY TM 9-6115-672-14 to page 83 or tm page 2-24 or paragraph 2.9. If you set this up like the book, then you shouldnt have any more problems.

Franko, I owe you a beer, I went back to the gen to check the connection board, yup, it was set for 416, I switched the board down and got 208 volts on the screen, perfect!!!

I'd get another one but the darn things have gone through the roof in price$$$$$ I've had this one for over a year and haven't touched it, I decided to get it running for winter

Cool beans, it looks Happy!!

Re: price - yep, I paid $4,350 for mine (from that same auction site) before the hurricanes. It had ~ 470 hours on it. The genset and the trailer are both in great shape.

These gensets are still in production, but my guess is, they're not cheap:

http://www.l-3mps.com/westwood/groundsupport.aspx

I spoke with an engineer @ L3 & learned two important facts about this beastie:

1. If you're using it to power single phase loads, then use terminals L1 and L3. He told me they have "better voltage regulation."

2. I asked about wet stacking (lots of info in these forums about this problem on older gensets) & he told me that the Standyne injection pump used on this genset was specifically designed to reduce wet stacking. He said it retards the injection timing under light load to allow for a longer burn time & more complete combustion.

I've been buying parts & supplies for the JD engine @ https://www.greenpartstore.com/ - It might just be marketing B.S., but John Deere claims you can go 500 hours between oil changes if you use their oil & filters.

I'm working on an oil centrifuge system to clean the oil (remove the soot...) while it's running:

https://www.dieselcraft.com/marine/

http://www.spinner2.com/index.cfm/div/65/Industrial

I'm not too keen on the oil bypass setup suggested by both companies, so I'm thinking about installing my own oil pump:

http://www.enginegearonline.com/24-volt-pumps/

...leaving the original oil circuit unmolested. I would draw the oil from the existing oil drain lines, and return it either to the unused oil filler access port on the block (currently covered by a steel plate), or maybe directly to the head via the current breather line.

My goal is to dramatically increase the run time between oil changes (or even eliminate oil changes completely) if the SHTF (i.e., the S(h*t) really does H(it) T(he) F(an)).

I might add other filters / cleaners as well:

http://cleanairfleet.com/oil-cleaner-specs/
http://www.ops-1.com/

The John Deere 6068 engine (or the current, updated incarnation) runs a Lot of John Deere equipment, up to & including some decent sized excavators:

https://www.deere.com/en/excavators/300g-excavator/

I've also looked into two different bi-fuel (burning a 30% diesel + 70% natural gas mixture, which leaves the engine unchanged & still able to burn anywhere from 30% to 100% diesel) solutions, but they're not cheap: $13k to $23k, which would buy a Lot of diesel .

I think we got pretty lucky finding a modern genset that got retired early to make room for the new AMMPS gensets:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?146154-What-is-AMMPS-generators

I wouldn't sell mine for love or money

Cheers!!

Franko

Not to hijack anyones thread, but does anyone have an injection pump for the 806B they would be willing to part with. We just acquired one and the injection pump is shot. Deere can get one but just looking to see if anyone has one cheaper.

What makes you say "it's shot." This is one of the few parts that almost never broke.

806B Injection Pump

Before doing anything, I would give the folks @ L3 a call:

http://www.l-3mps.com/westwood/contact.aspx

These gensets are still in production & as I mentioned above, they went to great lengths to a) make sure this engine would not suffer from wet stacking under light / no load conditions and b) fix problems they found while running them on various fuels (DF-1, DF-2, DF-A, JP5, JP.

As I remember, he said that 'if you know what you're doing, you can move the modified part to the new injection pump.'

Hope this helps,

Franko

ehoeft1 said:

Not to hijack anyones thread, but does anyone have an injection pump for the 806B they would be willing to part with. We just acquired one and the injection pump is shot. Deere can get one but just looking to see if anyone has one cheaper.

Click to expand...

Fuel is not getting through the pump. Took it to a stanadyne repair shop, they claim it got water in the pump and they cannot get all the parts to repair it. I dont know if that really is true since this pump is still being used and built. Either way they basically said I was down to getting a new injection pump.

Can you describe the fault a little better? You say that "fuel is not getting through the pump", to me that means, the engine spins over, but will not start. Did this "repair" shop tell you what they checked? Because I can think of about 3-4 things that can cause this fault, and water sure ain't one of them. If they haven't told you what they checked, call and ask if they checked the electric governor, the magnetic pickup or the electric actuator. I worked on a lot of these sets, and the injector pump NEVER was a problem. Not once, did I, or anyone else I know, change a IP. When you call these boys up, ask them how they checked and adjusted the MPU, magnetic pickup. If they can't tell you how to do it over the phone, they didn't do it. And that's the most likely culprit for this kind of failure.

Yep, shutting the fuel off is the system's response to many faults.

ehoeft1, do you have the Technical Manual?


http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-9-6115-672-14.pdf

The troubleshooting process is extensive:

Guyfang said:

Can you describe the fault a little better? You say that "fuel is not getting through the pump", to me that means, the engine spins over, but will not start. Did this "repair" shop tell you what they checked? Because I can think of about 3-4 things that can cause this fault, and water sure ain't one of them. If they haven't told you what they checked, call and ask if they checked the electric governor, the magnetic pickup or the electric actuator. I worked on a lot of these sets, and the injector pump NEVER was a problem. Not once, did I, or anyone else I know, change a IP. When you call these boys up, ask them how they checked and adjusted the MPU, magnetic pickup. If they can't tell you how to do it over the phone, they didn't do it. And that's the most likely culprit for this kind of failure.

Click to expand...

Yes I checked everything that the manual specified to check and have proper voltage going everywhere after finding a loose wire. We were then able to here the MP start clicking. After that occurred, fuel started coming up through the housing where 2 wires come out of the top of the injection pump. Fuel was spraying out past the outer seal and that's when we decided to pull it off to send it off to be looked at. We were not able to get fuel to come out of the injector line hookups at any point throughout the process.

The manuals are also located in the TM forum, here in SS.

If the shop didn't have the manuals, and I would certainly ask them if they did, then proper troubleshooting was NOT done.

I dont believe they did. I was not satisfied with this shop, so the pump is coming back to me and I called another shop listed on Stanadyne's website. Gave them a call and they actually have two of these generators sitting at their building right now. The pump is going to them to be looked at again to see if better answers can be figured out.

ehoeft1 said:

Yes I checked everything that the manual specified to check and have proper voltage going everywhere after finding a loose wire. We were then able to here the MP start clicking. After that occurred, fuel started coming up through the housing where 2 wires come out of the top of the injection pump. Fuel was spraying out past the outer seal and that's when we decided to pull it off to send it off to be looked at. We were not able to get fuel to come out of the injector line hookups at any point throughout the process.

Click to expand...

As long as the IP has a leak, it can't build up pressure to send fuel to the injectors.

What at do you mean MP?

Could you post a few pictures?

The only wires that go down there, go to the Electric Actuater. It is not a part of the IP. It's an add on. If that is leaking, it can be replaced, much cheaper then an IP.

Also, if some one has taken the Actuater off, and replaced it incorrectly, the IP will of course not work coccectly. Here in the TM forum, we have the instructions for proper installation, thanks to 155. I have repaired at least 5-6 of these set, simply by properly re installing the Actuater. I also will tell you, if you don't test, remove, inspect, reinstall, adjust and and test again, the Mag Pickup, you may just kick yourself in the butt later. The main reason 99% of the injector pumps and actuators get changed, is the mag pickup.

ehoeft1 said:

, fuel started coming up through the housing where 2 wires come out of the top of the injection pump. Fuel was spraying out past the outer seal and that's when we decided to pull it off to send it off to be looked at.

Click to expand...

that sounds to me as if the actuator isnt installed correctly. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...fuel-cutoff-tm-troubleshooting-install-manual

the other thing to verify is that the WOT bolt is open far enough to let the actuator do its job.

Yep.