Generator trailers (Fire extinguisher holder)

Does anyone know what size fire extinguisher should be in these? Probably info I can glean from a TM, but I was just reading an article about defective fire extinguishers on lunch break... and the thought passed my mind.

Here is the article, for those who haven't heard: http://www.newequipment.com/plant-o...on-faulty-fire-extinguishers-some-used-trucks

Daybreak shows the correct fire extinguisher here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?171026-Generator-Accessories . I use 5 lb ABC extinguishers that I get 'refurbished' on the big auction site. The red Ansul fits my brackets best. The tan extinguisher is an Amerex that I needed to add rubber spacers to the bracket. In the future I will request an Ansul or 'large' diameter extinguisher when ordering.

Howdy,
OK, Fire Extinguisher's are not all created the same.


The preferred extinguisher would be the CO2 type.


Why? Less likely to totally kill your engine and components in case of a fire. You really do not want to use a dry chemical. Yes, it will put out the fire, it will also kill your engine. Not in a good way either.

carbon dioxide fire extinguisher
4210-01-361-6921 Fire Extinguisher, CO2


AMEREX 322 5 LB CO2 B;C rated

Thanks for warning but you left me wondering what the problem is with my ABCs. This site had some useful info: http://www.safety-marine.co.uk/spages/Engine-Fire-Extinguishers.htm .

When NOT to Use a Dry Powder Fire Extinguisher!
The most common type of fire extinguisher found on a boat is the dry powder model. This is a useful 'all-round' fire extinguisher suitable for the situations identified by fire classifications A, B and C. (For an explanation of these classifications, see Fire Classifications & Fire Extinguishers.)
However, when you discharge a dry powder extinguisher it leaves a fine layer of powder, - much of which can turn into a sticky mess when it touches flames or hot metal.
The substance found in most dry powder fire extinguishers usually consists of either ammonium phosphate, potassium bicarbonate or sodium bicarbonate (otherwise known as bicarbonate of soda or baking powder!)
Unfortunately, ammonium phosphate can react with any moisture present to form phosphoric acid, which is highly corrosive and can easily seep into the smallest cracks in equipment, as well as remove paint. Left in place, the powder will draw moisture from the air and a common example of this acid corrosion will be chrome being replaced with rust.
More seriously, should the powder get taken into the air intakes, it could quite easily ruin the engine.
So even though you managed to tackle an engine fire quickly by discharging an extinguisher through the little hole in your engine bay cover, you may have caused more damage to your engine than the fire itself, simply because of your choice of fire extinguisher.
Fire industry professionals will always advise you to avoid using a dry powder fire extinguisher in an engine space - but if you have no choice, then it is critical that you shut the engines down first.

I just checked both of mine and they have ammonium phosphate based dry chemical.....which you do not want. The only CO2 or halotron extinguishers I can find are $150 or so. Ouch!!

There is a current running thread on the recall.

Howdy,
A CO2 extinguisher is expensive, but is the preferred method for a generator extinguisher.

What type of extinguishing agent?

Carbon Dioxide (CO2) – Good for Class B and Class C fires. No residue. Easy to use. Useful only in confined interior spaces. Does not cool fire.

Halotron 1 – EPA-approved. Safe for computers, electronics, even clean rooms, and leaves no residue after use.

HFC-227ea – Relatively non-toxic Halon replacements are effective on all fire classes. Expensive.

Water – Good for Class A fires. Extinguishers are heavy, difficult to store, and are NOT for use on flammable liquid or electrical fires.

Novec™ 1230 – New 3M agent is an environmentally-sustainable replacement for HFC-227 or FM200. No potential damage to the ozone layer or global warming potential. Effective on all fire classes and leaves no residue after use.

Dry Chemical – Low toxicity. Inexpensive. Effective on Class B and Class C fires. Not effective on Class A fires. Difficult to clean up.

Tri-Class Dry Chemical – Low toxicity. Inexpensive. Effective on Class B and Class C fires. Moderately effective on Class A fires. Difficult to clean up. Corrosive.

Aqueous Foam – This relatively new technology is extremely easy to use effectively on Class A, B, and C fires. Avoid excessive skin or eye contact.

Thanks to the fire extinguisher education from Daybreak I am now on the Do-Right program. 2 new out of the box (but out of date) CO2 extinguishers mounted. Weight of units were very close to the advertised shipping weight of a new one so I believe I'm good to go.

Kidde 466204 fits in the holder...

But maybe now I'll go look for a CO2 one.

Co2 is the way to go and if needed will cool down a 6 pack in a flash!