Idle Vibration Normal?

The one I posted has the correct thread main shaft.

Barrman said:

The one I posted has the correct thread main shaft.

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THat performance part number just shows the puller and not the bearing or the large nut the installer has. Are you saying the main large bolt for the puller fits our cranks? If so then it would probably work if you found a m16x1.5 nut and large washer but the threads can't go as deep with that tip.

This is Performance tool W151P. One with a case, one without.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91a5+p-VK7L._SL1500_.jpg

I used a standard puller to remove the old balancer . Then I just bought a long bolt, nut and used the washer from the old crank bolt to install the new balancer.

Drock said:

I used a standard puller to remove the old balancer . Then I just bought a long bolt, nut and used the washer from the old crank bolt to install the new balancer.

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I tried to weld the 2 bolts together to make the installer but my crappy 110v wasn't penetrating. And nobody locally close to me sells a long m16x1.5 bolt.

I bought the bolt at my local Fastenal store.

Tinstar said:

I bought the bolt at my local Fastenal store.

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Mine was closed during the weekend. My fault for not preparing earlier in the week but I assumed the install kit would work. Two Ace HW stores had the nut, don't stock the bolts.

We have several people saying different things several post apart with other people saying there thing in between. Unfortunately, I will just continue the trend.

With the puller i have. I put the pointed tip on and used it like a regular puller. Nothing is different on the puller part.

Yes, there are balancer installation tools that basically look like a clutch throw out bearing and they work great. I don’t have one of those. So, I pulled the pointed tip off my puller shaft, screwed the 4 eared part all the way toward the hex end, started the balancer onto the crank with the key lined up. I put the big stock washer on the balancer and then screwed in the balancer puller shaft into the crank. I just turned it in by hand until it felt tight.

I then turned the 4 eared part until it touched the balancer washer. I have used large channel lock pliers, large crescent wrenches and a 1-1/16” open end to apply torque to the 4 eared part. I have done it with lots of grease applied and I have done it dry. I like dry better. It isn’t that much more resistance and makes a lot less mess.

With the fan and fan shroud removed. It is easier to do this from the top in my opinion. The cross member, sway bar and lower radiator hose get in the way when doing it from the bottom. I have done it, but to me it is worth the effort to pull the fan.

Either way you do it. It will seem like forever. It is such a fine thread shaft and you never get more than a quarter turn per throw. It just goes on and on and on. But it works.

Thanks for explaining that. So this puller has the same M16x1.5 thread the crank has.

I never took my fan or shroud off. I did everything from the bottom pretty easily. The hardest part was getting the seal on since there's not much room for a hammer.

Yes, the puller shaft screws into the end of the crankshaft. That is why people look for that specific part number. Or one with a similar shaft.