20 Minute Install--Locking Hubs

I got the jatonka locking hubs in the morning mail.

Well built with easy directions. They stick out only one inch further than the stock hub. They appear bulkier because of the locking mechanism and taller because of the locking dial.

Astounded that it took only 20 minutes to remove the original hubs and install the new lockers.

Great job, John!

Those are some great looking units that he constructed. Very nice. How's the steering now with the front wheels spooling freely?

Didn't someone put a set on the front rear axle awhile back?

Polverone said:

Those are some great looking units that he constructed. Very nice. How's the steering now with the front wheels spooling freely?

Didn't someone put a set on the front rear axle awhile back?

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Im not sure who on here has put them on the rear. but it is possible to do by putting a straight threw shaft on the rear that is splined on both ends, and accepts the front drive flange, which then use a lockout on it to allow you to be able to put lock outs on it. And would be a manual disconnect for a rear axle.

you can check my gallery. I've don it to mine. awesome addition. does much more good on the rear than the front.

We have been driving the truck this afternoon. An improvement in steering is remarkably noticed. Not a Caddy with PS, but easier.

Thanks for posting them are they similar to the Overson ones or more like the old style Milemarker ones. I am going to put them on my duece and I may go whole hog if I make Colonel and buy the front and front rear as well. If doing the rear I understand you only need one side done. Nice job can you include the link to John's sale page?

Here is the link to John's sale page,

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=PN_zClassifieds&file=detail&cat=4&de=983

I have one side of my far rear axle with a locking hub, makes a noticeable difference in turning radius. Especially on dry pavement. It doesn't keep everything from spinnning, a driveline disconnect would be required for that. But it does unload the two, and it is easy to disconnect for the highway, and reconnect once you get to the trails. Helps minimize the need for tire matching between the rear axles as well. Mileage? Well who knows. I am pushing a big square box down the road.

ARMYMAN30YearsPlus said:

Thanks for posting them are they similar to the Overson ones or more like the old style Milemarker ones.

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they are more like the ouverson ones

Rattlehead -

Why on the far rear axle? Because of the way the springs are set up, don't you lose traction on the forward rear when you accelerate? It would make more sense to put the lockout hub & double splined axle on the forward rear, I think. That way, as you accelerate, the tires are getting pushed down, instead of pulled up. Besides, both pumpkins are spinning anyways, so no love lost there.

Anyone else smelling what I am stepping in?

Matt

FSBruva said:

Rattlehead -

Why on the far rear axle? Because of the way the springs are set up, don't you lose traction on the forward rear when you accelerate? It would make more sense to put the lockout hub & double splined axle on the forward rear, I think. That way, as you accelerate, the tires are getting pushed down, instead of pulled up. Besides, both pumpkins are spinning anyways, so no love lost there.

Anyone else smelling what I am stepping in?

Matt

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ya you need to put the hub on the front tandem. not the rear.

Offroadfabworks said:

ARMYMAN30YearsPlus said:

Thanks for posting them are they similar to the Overson ones or more like the old style Milemarker ones.

Click to expand...

they are more like the ouverson ones

Click to expand...

My understanding is internally, the Ouverson Engineering versions are identical in design. The main difference is in the external shape and the lettering on the lock in dial. I am not an engineer so, perhaps, I can be wrong.

I do not have a problem with the dial lettering but probably it should be changed to 'Off' and 'Locked' for the purists.

dabtl said:

My understanding is internally, the Ouverson Engineering versions are identical in design. The main difference is in the external shape and the lettering on the lock in dial. I am not an engineer so, perhaps, I can be wrong.

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Identical? .......NO. For example OE-hubs carry a large ball bearing (6012 Z) to support the axle shaft and help reduce internal wear while spinning free. It is very visible on the back side.
More to come, as soon as I have the chance to disassemble an AVM.

G.

jwaller said:

FSBruva said:

Rattlehead -

Why on the far rear axle? Because of the way the springs are set up, don't you lose traction on the forward rear when you accelerate? It would make more sense to put the lockout hub & double splined axle on the forward rear, I think. That way, as you accelerate, the tires are getting pushed down, instead of pulled up. Besides, both pumpkins are spinning anyways, so no love lost there.

Anyone else smelling what I am stepping in?

Matt

Click to expand...

ya you need to put the hub on the front tandem. not the rear.

Click to expand...

Why?

Matt

The physics of this strike me as follows:

Put on the forward rear axle the means the torque is solely on the last rear axle. The weight of the forward axle helps keep the torque of the last rear axle on the surface. If the device is put on the last rear axle, only the weight of the forward portion of the truck is applied. In other words, more weight is brought to bear holding the last rear axle to the surface than can be applied to the forward axle under the same conditions.

Thus better traction is achieved by putting the device on the forward rear axle.

I am a lawyer not a physicist, however.

dabtl-

That was my assertion, as well.

Matt

Thanks for the discussion I plan on doing both fronts and one on the drivers side front drive tandem Still trying to determine if putting two on that drive axle is wasting money or would it cut down on internal gear movement? I am not an engineer either so the question is one of two lockouts on the front axle of the rear drive tandem?

When you say the OEM hubs had a big bearing are you talking of the standard drive hubs?

I did not think putting on Oversons or these would be bad am I thinking incorrectly? I always ran them on my old Jeeps and never had any problems with the lockouts over standard hubs.

David: first Q, ONE hub on the forward rear axle, drivers side (shorter distance from the drivers seat!) is all you want. Two would be overkill and waste of $$$!
This has been discussed a lot in previous threads. See http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....wtopic&t=14156&highlight=rear+axle+disconnect

Second, I was referring toOuversons Engineering hubs, not OEM parts. I'm still waiting to see an AVM inside to compare. All I can say by now is that they are far from beeing internally "identical"... and for the rear I would only choose the strongest!
And the winner is............?

Gerhard

Looking at the pics inside, the Ouverson hub looks beefier. Is that bearing overkill? Dunno but overkill is better. If the price of both hubs is $595 (and I think it is), I'd buy the Ouversons, besides, it's made in the USA.

Kenny, you said it......! Exactly my thoughts for now.

G.