Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: Garaging A FLU,,what do you do? STEEL garage companies experiance?

  1. #11
    General
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    northern nh
    Posts
    424
    Thanks
    17
    Thanked 223 Times in 133 Posts

    Default

    First thing to do is call your local building inspector and get the ground snow load and wind zone classification. If you talk to someone who doesnt ask for these its hint that they don't know what they are doing or are going to lowball you. Structures built for down south don't worry about snow load but you really do. There should be no reason to rake off a properly designed roof.

    Consider if you want to be able to hang point loads to the roof structure like a trolley rail or bridge crane in the future. This adds load to the roof, its not that hard to design in the loads but a bear to add it in afterwards.

    Next read the PDF and watch this TV show excerpt that was filmed in Orono Maine on Frost heaves http://www.hotandcold.tv/frost_heaves.html. This should get you up to speed on how to insulate the slab correctly.

    Another thing to note is if you want to put down a fancy epoxy floor coating, the slab needs to have vapor barrier installed underneath it. A typical slab guy hates a vapor barrier under the slab and will try to avoid it or poke holes in it as it takes longer for the concrete to set up which means he cant float it as quick.

    Radiant heat tubing in the slab is good thing to consider even if you don't hook it up right away.

    Good discussion, I want to raise my garage so I can work on my SEE and my 1300.

    I really like galvalume siding and roofing with Kynar topcoating. It does seem to last a long time.

    The insulation kits for many steel buildings are sometime overpriced rolls of vinyl coated fiberglass. Ask around and maybe get in touch with Tom Gocze (yup the guy on the video) down in Searsport for options. Either that of give him a call on his radio show Saturday mornings on WVOM.
    Last edited by peakbagger; 02-12-2018 at 11:08.
    Unimog SEE, Unimog 1300L Ambulance (for now)

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to peakbagger For This Useful Post:

    czechsix (02-24-2018), lurkMcGurk (02-12-2018)

  3. #12
    4 Star General frank8003's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
    Posts
    2,946
    Thanks
    1,978
    Thanked 3,943 Times in 1,404 Posts
    I was here, had a good time.

  4. #13
    Sergeant crunchylicenseplates's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    77
    Thanks
    52
    Thanked 13 Times in 10 Posts

    Default

    Make sure to check the building codes for your area, neighborhood where you live some municipalities require a certain distance from the edge of the property.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1965 Unimog s404.114 with Radio Box (1987) converted to Camper
    2000 Mercedes Benz S430 / W220

  5. #14
    2 Star General BEASTMASTER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Burgaw, N.C.
    Posts
    771
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 94 Times in 66 Posts

    Default

    hey guy, you might want to look into the quanset type buildings. if theyr're good enough for the military .they might work. I knew a guy up in mass. that had one and he was pleased with it.
    Beastmaster

  6. #15
    Sergeant
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    86
    Thanks
    9
    Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post

    Default

    Good thread, and I'm in the same boat - but up in Alaska. I've also found that getting steel building info is tough. Takes lots of time, and there are lots of useless sites out there. I need to run a minimum 30x60, heated floors, wood/oil heat and spray foam insulation. Also planning on a pit and a trolley hoist. After all this research I'm also going to take the time to see what a stick built would cost....

  7. #16
    4 Star General
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Sunman Indiana
    Posts
    1,376
    Thanks
    1,957
    Thanked 768 Times in 462 Posts

    Default

    All the research I did when I built my shop, you had to go over a 50í span to justify the cost of steel over wood. Also, donít forget to add the cost of the concrete foundation for a steel building. I wenít with an 60x75, A&S building. If memory serves, they are just off I75, on the KY/TN border near Jelico. Back in 1999 they would spec the build to meet your local requirement, but not design or provide any info on the footing required.
    M925A2

  8. #17
    Corporal lurkMcGurk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Bangor,Maine
    Posts
    41
    Thanks
    41
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts

    Default

    This Gentlemen did one of the best descriptions of a 40x60 with concrete slab I have seen to date, this is what I'm planning for size. the youtube video Guy is out of Texas and the best part was he put the price in the description and was nice enough to answer people questions. $43,500 if I recall correctly building was built in 2016 I think. A waste of time is a nice way of putting what most internet steel "companies" are. They are middle men between manufacturer and purchaser and IMHO much is lacking.

    So far I have had a few quotes and from what I'm seeing it would seem every builder has jobs lined up but will then throw out a crazy number to see if someone bites. If someone does then it seems a builder will make it a point to build that one too. Just got a crazy 100K+ "estimate" best part was this didn't include the slab or site prep,,,or anything else amazing. Unbelievable, others are realistic but have me biding my time. I can't beat a Texas price in the Northeast for sure but I'm not one to waste money willy nilly,,unless for headlight fluid, muffler bearings and putting summer air out of winter tires and winter air in, because that's just smart to do!!

    So the looking, pricing etc continues and thanks for great info so far .

  9. #18
    Colonel
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Crystal City Mo
    Posts
    229
    Thanks
    519
    Thanked 136 Times in 85 Posts

    Default

    Whatever you build, will never be big enough. Overbuild, man doors, overhead doors, ceiling joists. Concrete floor thickness, foundation, reinforcing steel in concrete.

    Wood, concrete block, metal, or all three, you can always add on additions. So think ahead about where would be the best direction to proceed, and plan ahead.

    Underground service trench, above ground lift. Electrical Service, how many amps for all of your equipment. I would also use two different service boxes, saves some problems later when adding on more powered equipment.

    Build for maintenance and storage of the FLU, and storage area for FLU parts. That will give you a base cost for the building and then do not deviate from initial plan. That is how a builder makes the coin, upgrades, changes from the original design.

    If by chance you can build yourself or have shell built, then you finish. Then you can add on some frills later, but stay with initial plan and stay on budget. Once you start to muddy up the water by changes, add on's you have lost rudder control, and costs will rise faster then expected.

    Good Luck and just remember that what ever you do it will never be big enough to yourself, but way to big to the Wife until She starts to use it also. That way the next addition, or lean to will be all hers.
    Belt Fed Multi Barrel Motor Motivated

    Help From Above

    GAU 8 See You Next Time

  10. #19
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    The actual midwest, NM.
    Posts
    2,316
    Thanks
    925
    Thanked 972 Times in 709 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lurkMcGurk View Post
    This Gentlemen did one of the best descriptions of a 40x60 with concrete slab I have seen to date, this is what I'm planning for size.
    That one looks a lot like mine, except my end doors are at the far end from the front of the garage, not centered.

    Seeing that one also reminded me of one inexpensive option I really like; eaves. Even just a foot makes a difference in looks, I think, and it does keep some snow a bit farther away from the doors.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •