803 Bogs Down and dies at 85% Load

Fuel pressure is 7.9 PSI measured at the connection at the electric fuel pump at start and after start.

Oil sending unit shows 240 ohm as needed when shut down but when the engine is started and allowed to run, the resistance only drops to 200 ohms not to the 100 to 33 ohms level indicated in the manual. However, this does not mean that the sender unit is bad IF the oil pressure from the engine is only 5 to 8 PSI. So how do I find out the real oil pressure? If the oil pressure is really that low, it has to be adjusted at the pump inside the crank case. Further testing needed.....

The fuel solenoid is bad. It will only retract now if helped. Once deenergized, it has to be helped again to retract. While in the retract position, it moves a little and will not hold position. So this need to be replaced. Part number and source availability?

What about the fuel pressure when the unit gets hot and shuts down?

Hook a manual, oil pressure gauge to the line that leads up to the oil pressure sending unit. That way you will know for sure.

jamawieb said:

What about the fuel pressure when the unit gets hot and shuts down?

Hook a manual, oil pressure gauge to the line that leads up to the oil pressure sending unit. That way you will know for sure.

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Will do on the oil reading. Have to get a unit to read the pressure.

After attaching another gauge at the fitting, I got an oil pressure reading of 7 PSI.

USAMilRet said:

After attaching another gauge at the fitting, I got an oil pressure reading of 7 PSI.

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need more info. was this at idle? engine temp? new known oil? did the pressure suddenly drop to 7 or has it always been? you used a mechanical gauge to check?

does the oil level in the crankcase stay the same? you could have an internal fuel leak diluting the oil.

justacitizen said:

need more info. was this at idle? engine temp? new known oil? did the pressure suddenly drop to 7 or has it always been? you used a mechanical gauge to check?

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Yes at idle. Just started ambient temp oil in crankcase. When engine was rebuilt in Dec 17, about 11 hours ago. Yes. Yesterday the genset was running at 20psi to 22 psi. Then while under load at 60% and after 15 or so minutes, there was a lot of smoke then black smoke and the genset bogged down and I heard a knock knock knock like a bad rod (engine runs OK today - no load though) and hit the emergency shutdown. While reviewing a tape of what happened about 2 minutes before this I saw that the genset was also near 220 deg F on the water.

I will try to attach the video but I have not done this before.

justacitizen said:

does the oil level in the crankcase stay the same? you could have an internal fuel leak diluting the oil.

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No, after having it under load, it look like it was about half quart low.

I do not see that nor do I smell that.

I put a video on line. The link to it is here:

https://vimeo.com/user87675894/review/281538805/ab84e27e3d

I do not see a place to upload a video on this site, just pictures.

so at operating temp and rpm you have 20 psi and at idle cold you have 7 psi? or does the oil pressure start out at 20 and drop to 7 when the engine warms to operating temp and 1800rpm? i would bet that there is no thermostat installed. if i were you i would change the oil to a known spec 15w40 and filters and start over.

No. Yesterday :-* had 20 to 22 psi oil. After the emergency shutdown it sat overnight. Today the oil psi is 7 psi. Yesterday when I did the emergency shutdown the oil fault indicator was lit. It also looked like the genset was beginning to overheat.

i would not run it again until i changed the oil. and then with fresh oil and filter if it still carries 7 psi cold i would shut it down immediately and take corrective action. i forgot about the knocking noise. you may want to turn the engine by hand to feel for a loose rod. it is possible you have a bearing cap coming off or have a spun bearing. another poss is crank the engine with the dead crank to listen before you start it.

The engine runs fine today but with only 7 psi of oil, I limit the time to about a minute.

does it still knock? does it still have the same oil in it that you purchased it with?

No knocks. The oil is the same as yesterday. Smells fine and lubricates very well.

Howdy,
Some of your answers are too short.

Rebuild = rebuilt by the guy you bought the unit from. (does he know what he's doing?)
How much of a rebuild was done? Why did that person rebuild it?

Was a new hour meter installed by the guy that did this rebuild?

Note:
John Deere break-in oil is not a golden honey color oil. The break-in oil is a dark hue with a greenish tint to it.

Add-on
after watching your video. I would ask what does the exhaust smell like? Are the rings correctly installed. Is the unit running on oil.

Daybreak said:

Howdy,
Some of your answers are too short.

Rebuild = rebuilt by the guy you bought the unit from. (does he know what he's doing?)
How much of a rebuild was done? Why did that person rebuild it?

Was this unit ever reset with the military? Letter-Kenny reset plate?

Was a new hour meter installed by the guy that did this rebuild?

Note:
John Deere break-in oil is not a golden honey color oil. The break-in oil is a dark hue with a greenish tint to it.

Click to expand...

The engine was rebuilt by the individual I bought it from. He has been overhauling and reselling MEPs for around 10 years. Has an established website and is highly spoken of from the reviews I have seen.

Yes, he put the new hour meter in it.

No resets indicated. No Letterkenney data plate. It is a 2009 and has most if not all of the TIER updates that I know of.

My understanding is that they rebuilt the lower half but sent the upper half out for the work. I will find out exactly what was replaced/done.

It was a 218 hour engine that he choose to rebuild because he heard a knock in the lower part of the engine during the final testing phase.

Was not sure what it was but wanted me to have a solid engine so it was rebuilt.

http://www.powerspareparts.com/sear...a-fuel-stop-solenoid-sa-3865-5945-01-378-7172

For your fuel cutoff solenoid.

If he truly rebuilt the motor, you should have a higher oil pressure than 20-22psi. Should be around 60psi. You may want to take the oil fill cap off while its running to see if its pushing a lot of oil out of there. You will have a little spray coming out from pressure but it shouldn't be bad. If it is bad, then most likely the rings are not set right or a piston ring has broken. The rings have to be installed a certain way and they have to be staggered where they come together.

Start the set. Pull the dipstick. Hold a small piece of paper over the hole. The engine SHOULD run with a vacuum on the crankcase. If the paper is not sucked down towards the hole, you have a problem.