Is there a consensus on cab floor sound / heat shield?

I have been searching and I see a few ideas. Has there been a consensus on how to treat the floor? After I deal with the rust and before I put stuff back together I want to add something.

Thanks

De rust
High zinc epoxy primer
Thick coating of Monsta liner or equivalent

For heat on the underside, I'd use lizard skin heat barrier plus a blanket

I'm going to spray a ceramic coating on the engine facing side. On the inside of the cab insulate and sound deaden with butle rubber.

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Page 2 of my thread has what I used.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?152882-Working-on-the-M1078-LMTV

On my Deuce I rhino lined the floors ans up the back side of the cab then use FAT MAT under the floor over the top of the transmission and where the shift lever comes through the floor. It went from an earplugs only truck to a truck where two people can talk comfortably, no ear plugs needed, I am sure others have done more but this is what my truck needed!
KK

There is so many potential solutions and most of them seem to work pretty **** close to as good as the next...... so IMHO.... write down the options.... close your eyes and point at the paper and use the one that falls under your finger.

mkcoen said:

Page 2 of my thread has what I used.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?152882-Working-on-the-M1078-LMTV

Click to expand...

How do you like this stuff? Is it a rubber or asphalt? It's hard to narrow down what I want to use.

There are 3 things I want... One is sound, and of course heat and lastly I wants something that will resist water. The stuff the factory used will soak up water. As a matter of fact I spray the factory stuff with water and wait about an hour. It softens right up and scrapes off easy.

Noico 80 mm.

Thick.

Cheaper than Dynamat.

Easy to install.

Takes the tin can sound out and gives you a thud instead.

I've used these with good results.

Alternative solution.; start with what you HAVE to do no matter what...
. use a "something to protect cab from rust" product.
. use a "something to minimize heat transfer from engine" product.

Use your remaining money and time to instead of dynomat, sound deadners etc etc..... and get a personal communication system.
. buy a headset communication system
.... can get expensive but less labor than installing all the sound dampning stuff

. use cell phones- make pilot/co-pilot and kids communication system out of cell phones
.... Mesh Network (phone to phone) is what you use for this via an apps like firechat, zombie chat etc. along with some inexpensive or costly headphones or ear buds etc.
...... additional advantages
....... opens communication potential to folk in the bed or habitat on back of truck??
....... each user can play favorite music to their own ears
....... opens potential to communicate with others in your procession
....... protects hearing better if one uses sound dampening head set
....... relatively low cost / see below
..... disadvantage- you got to wear headset to use it.

https://www.geckoandfly.com/22562/chat-without-internet-connection-mesh-network/
https://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-Suppre...sr=1-8&keywords=hearing+protection+microphone

spankybear said:

How do you like this stuff? Is it a rubber or asphalt? It's hard to narrow down what I want to use.

Click to expand...

It worked ok but was a bit of a PITA given the thickness and trying to cut to fit. It’s rubberized and sticks good but difficult to get to lay down in some of the indentions even with a heat gun.

I may have gone overboard... But I did the following:

4 coats of noise and heat paint on interior of cab and underside of body.

Noico 50mil sound barrier to all interior of cab

High Heat barrier 70 mill to underside of body over engine and engine hump

Noico 80 mil over the first layer in interior

Noico 140 mil over that layer.

Denim 1inch insulation over that.

Mass loaded vinyl 1lb per foot over that

Now I'm shopping for carpet and headliner.

I can tell you it was a lot of work, but the dampness of sound and heat reduction is insane. It's almost like my 2015 diesel f250, and my window seals are bad. After I replace those it should be very solid.

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Givinup said:

I may have gone overboard... But I did the following:

• 4 coats of noise and heat paint on interior of cab and underside of body.
• Noico 50mil sound barrier to all interior of cab High Heat barrier
• 70 mill to underside of body over engine and engine hump
• Noico 80 mil over the first layer in interrior
• Noico 140 mil over that layer.
• Denim 1inch insulation over that.
• Mass loaded vinyl 1lb per foot over that

Now I'm shopping for carpet and headliner.I can tell you it was a lot of work, but the dampness of sound and heat reduction is insane. It's almost like my 2015 diesel f250, and my window seals are bad. After I replace those it should be very solid.

Click to expand...

That's quite a recipe.

1. What kind of heat paint did you use?
2. For the top layer of vinyl. How did you contour the hump? Did you overlap and glue it?
3. Did you fill the voids in the ceiling pillar with foam or other insulation?
4. Did you do anything to the inside of the doors? If so how does the drain now work?

Aernan said:

That's quite a recipe.

1. What kind of heat paint did you use?
2. For the top layer of vinyl. How did you contour the hump? Did you overlap and glue it?
3. Did you fill the voids in the ceiling pillar with foam or other insulation?
4. Did you do anything to the inside of the doors? If so how does the drain now work?

Click to expand...

Oops, yeah I forgot my first step.

First I used Firefoam to block all empty spaces in the cab. I started with Firefoam, so I used throughout, although regular void foam probably works the same. Used a surprisingly large amount too, lots of voids in the roof and rear wall. I also filled the windshield pillars on the driver and passenger side, as well as what would be the B pillar. Helped a lot.

The top foam that was thick is actually the most pliable. Very easy to contour.

I used hy-tech paint model sc1000. Do my be dumb like me, and use an airless sprayer. I used an air sprayer and it's much more difficult to control a smooth finish. Got the hang of it quickly, but took a gallon of the stuff to learn it. I found mixing with a small bit of water helped best.

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Givinup said:

Oops, yeah I forgot my first step.
First I used Firefoam to block all empty spaces in the cab. I started with Firefoam, so I used throughout, although regular void foam probably works the same. Used a surprisingly large amount too, lots of voids in the roof and rear wall. I also filled the windshield pillars on the driver and passenger side, as well as what would be the B pillar. Helped a lot.

Click to expand...

I could not find any product called fire foam on google. I plan on using "great stuff". I'm concerned that I might want to run wiring through those spaces but I may opt for surface wiring hidden in a cosmetic duct so it's easier to repair and upgrade in the future.

Inside my doors there is some kind of rubberized coating that I'm guessing is to shed water down to the bottom where it weeps out. I would like to deaden the doors but I don't want to block the drain ports. Did you do it on the sheet metal side or just inside the door panel?

Givinup said:

I used hy-tech paint model sc1000. Do my be dumb like me, and use an airless sprayer. I used an air sprayer and it's much more difficult to control a smooth finish. Got the hang of it quickly, but took a gallon of the stuff to learn it. I found mixing with a small bit of water helped best.

Click to expand...

I was able to find the SC1000 on Amazon. It is listed as a sound deadening high build paint. Did you use any paint on product that is designed to reject the heat?

I see mentions of spray guns. Did you use a HVLP or just simple air gun? Can the product be brushed rolled on?

In another thread someone recommended "lizard skin". It's some kind of ceramic coating to reject heat.

I did two coats of lizard skin on the underside and one coat of bedliner on the interior of the cabin and it helped it. I run a 10" subwoofer and some 6.5" component speakers so the sound really doesn't matter to me. however, my dog Meathead sits on the hump between the seats and i guess its comfortable in terms of heat?

Anyone knows the space between cab and engine? I want to put some sound deadening mats / heat shield underfloor and need to know how many square meter and the thickness that is possible to put...

Thanks in advance!

Christian

If you have used lizard skin how do you like it? Also how durable is it? How well does the thermal insulation work?

spankybear said:

If you have used lizard skin how do you like it? Also how durable is it? How well does the thermal insulation work?

Click to expand...

Lizardskin does a pretty good job. You can spray it with a abrasive gun found at tractor supply for about $20. Nothing likes to stick to it though. Not even 3M super 77 can get a blanket to stick to it.

You can use the horse stall mats from tractor supply 4ft x 6ft and line your floor with it. It is 3/4" thick and made of rubber and fiberglass so it is a good barrier. Dropped my floor temp by 10 degrees. Just cut to fit. You can cut it and mold it on the hump in the LMTV.

You can also try simmons industries rubberized coating.

If you aree going to cover your floor up anyway. You can also cut the horse stall mat and hold it up against the bottom side of the cab and have someone drill thru with self tap screws and then put caps on the screw tips with large washers to hold the mat in place. Then do the same on the inside. It will barrier it pretty well. It is also good to 300+ degrees. Should be fine as long as it doesnt fall on the turbo.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/4-ft-x-6-ft-x-3-4-in-thick-rubber-stall-mat