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Thread: Resurrecting an M108

  1. #21
    4 Star General SETOYOTA's Avatar
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    Here you go. The green u bolts are replacements just sitting there . You can see the nut is a little difficult to get to
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    Have owned A whole bunch of jeeps, trucks and armor. Still have a few.

    I love my carbon footprint and no I don't own a Toyota.

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  3. #22
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    Here goes the how to for getting your nuts off (giggidy) with out removing anything. Depending on how the truck is sitting you might need to jack up the opposite axle to the nut you are trying to remove. It needs to go up high enough to get the U bolt from in front of the nut. I removed the front nut as is but the rear one I had to jack up the front axle a few inches to get the spring pack to tilt a little. After that put your handy special socket in and put the porta power in between the tool and frame. After you get the nut broke loose you can use you second unmodified socket with an insert to go from 1/2 to 3/8 and a low profile ratchet. If you don't have a low pro ratchet and insert you could also just grab the socket with pliers and turn it out. Next put a bar against the bushing and use your BFH and give it a few love taps. I put a ratchet strap on the bar to hold it in place since I was working alone. After you get what's left of the bushing to pop out put your new bar in and put the nut back on the same way you got it off. To get the nut tight I put the tool I made on and used my calibrated torque hammer to tighten it up. Hope this helps.
    IMG_20190319_182550.jpgIMG_20190319_183018.jpgIMG_20190319_183228.jpgIMG_20190319_183630.jpgIMG_20190319_183858.jpg

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  5. #23
    4 Star General SETOYOTA's Avatar
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    Looks like I will be making a similar tool
    Have owned A whole bunch of jeeps, trucks and armor. Still have a few.

    I love my carbon footprint and no I don't own a Toyota.

  6. #24
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    Made a little progress. Now I need to start tearing down the M35.
    IMG_20190328_193525.jpg

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  8. #25
    4 Star General cattlerepairman's Avatar
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    So you got the suspension done?

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    MVPA member. 1974 M35A2C w/w "Queen Lola", rebuilt LDS-465-1A, "D" turbo, Waterloo Overdrive upgrade. Med towbar, 11.00R20 Goodyear G286, flipped hubs, remote brake fluid reservoir, spin-on filters, bypassed FDC, LED taillights, LED headlights, LED turn signals, WESTACH EGT/boost gauge, AVM lockout hubs, LED convoy light, LED lollipop lights, HMMWV seat on air ride base, M211 dash passenger grab handle, hood lift kit, 24V solargizer/battery minder, ether start kit, flasher module mod, heavy duty dog bone ends, M35A3 aluminium fuel tank.

  9. #26
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    I got the two upper beams that fell out replaced as of now. When I tear down the M35 it has bushings that are in decent shape so I'll change the rest of them after it's apart.

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  11. #27
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    I ran into a little dilemma. When I pulled the engine out of the M108 I didn't really pay it much attention. It's a multi fuel and it's got a big turbo same as the rest. But when looked at my M35 last night to get ready to pull the cab off I realized the turbo on the M108 is a monster compared to the M35. So here is my dilemma. Do I keep the M108 engine or swap in the M35 engine. I know the M35 engine is a relatively low hour depo over haul and it runs good plus I just had the pump gone through. The engine out of the M108 runs good but it smokes. I wondering if someone turned the fuel up on it because it smokes black when you step on it and it runs too good to have worn rings. Or do I keep the M35 engine and put that beast of a turbo on it. Thoughts? Here are the two engines and there tags.
    IMG_20190311_201640.jpgIMG_20190330_170521.jpgIMG_20190330_170701.jpgIMG_20190330_170745.jpg

  12. #28
    4 Star General cattlerepairman's Avatar
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    So, the yellow one started as a naturally aspirated multifuel that was "turboed " at some point. That large turbo is off an LDS465-1A. It is impressive, but the D-turbo (the smaller non whistler) is more effective.

    I'd look at the casting forward and below of the data plate for the TD letters indicating a stronger "thick deck" block and use that one.
    I'd also look at the head gasket for signs of whether an antique or a new style is installed. Paranoid me would probably do headgaskets while the engine is out, as well as the rear main and clutch but that's me!

    Up to your taste which turbo you want to install; both turbos work on either engine.





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    Last edited by cattlerepairman; 03-30-2019 at 18:54.
    MVPA member. 1974 M35A2C w/w "Queen Lola", rebuilt LDS-465-1A, "D" turbo, Waterloo Overdrive upgrade. Med towbar, 11.00R20 Goodyear G286, flipped hubs, remote brake fluid reservoir, spin-on filters, bypassed FDC, LED taillights, LED headlights, LED turn signals, WESTACH EGT/boost gauge, AVM lockout hubs, LED convoy light, LED lollipop lights, HMMWV seat on air ride base, M211 dash passenger grab handle, hood lift kit, 24V solargizer/battery minder, ether start kit, flasher module mod, heavy duty dog bone ends, M35A3 aluminium fuel tank.

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  14. #29
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    Thanks for the info. I just checked and the yellow motor does not have a TD cast in the block but the motor in the M35 does. If both turbo will do the same job I would rather run the smaller one because I already have a brand new exhaust on the M35 that fits it. How do I tell which head gasket I have?

  15. #30
    4 Star General cattlerepairman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redpawn View Post
    Thanks for the info. I just checked and the yellow motor does not have a TD cast in the block but the motor in the M35 does. If both turbo will do the same job I would rather run the smaller one because I already have a brand new exhaust on the M35 that fits it. How do I tell which head gasket I have?
    Old gasket:
    When you look at the gap between block and head 6 tabs are sticking out. They are designed to let the gasket "vent". Oil can leak from there (it is intended to allow overpressure to vent off instead of blowing the gasket). The fire rings are separate (not that you could see that with the heads on).

    old style gasket.jpg



    New style gasket: The gasket has no protruding tabs. Fire rings are integrated.

    new style gasket.jpg


    (Pics from bunkerofdoom.com)
    Last edited by cattlerepairman; 03-30-2019 at 21:22.
    MVPA member. 1974 M35A2C w/w "Queen Lola", rebuilt LDS-465-1A, "D" turbo, Waterloo Overdrive upgrade. Med towbar, 11.00R20 Goodyear G286, flipped hubs, remote brake fluid reservoir, spin-on filters, bypassed FDC, LED taillights, LED headlights, LED turn signals, WESTACH EGT/boost gauge, AVM lockout hubs, LED convoy light, LED lollipop lights, HMMWV seat on air ride base, M211 dash passenger grab handle, hood lift kit, 24V solargizer/battery minder, ether start kit, flasher module mod, heavy duty dog bone ends, M35A3 aluminium fuel tank.

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