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Thread: where to take HMMWV ignition +

  1. #21
    Colonel pjwest03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by privatevince View Post
    that's great advice
    i can easily check behind my instrument panel, the guys from the shop bolted it with a single bolt

    pj, you can't even buy stuff like that over here. our car aftermarket simply doesn't know "dielectric grease". what we have is battery post grease...
    gonna bye no-ox-id overseas!
    An electrical supplier may have something in the anti-oxidant category. I understand, in any event, something is better than nothing.
    The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.

    -- Harlan Ellison

    Now, if we could only harness the power stupidity...


    1969 Kaiser M36A2 WO/W
    MEP-802A

  2. #22
    4 Star General MarcusOReallyus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by papakb View Post
    This ground is a known problem point and is typically the cause of a lot of strange gauge readings when it loosens up or gets corroded.
    Poor grounds are the source of a lot of confusion. They cause things that shouldn't be possible! I always tell people, when things get weird, clean your grounds.

    Quote Originally Posted by papakb View Post
    What I did with mine was to replace the screw with a 1" long stainless setscrew with a star washer and nut on both sides.
    I did something similar on another vehicle of mine. In that case, I had no need to access the backside, so I just used a regular 5/16" stainless hex bolt with a star washer on the backside. I polished the metal on the front side, added a flat washer, then a star washer and a nut. This created a 'permanent' ground stud to replace the original sheet metal screw. The ring terminal goes OVER that nut, followed by a star washer and nut. All hardware is stainless, and liberally coated with dielectric grease.

    Quote Originally Posted by papakb View Post
    It won't hurt to use some anti-oxidant grease on them either.
    Quote Originally Posted by pjwest03 View Post
    My favorite item for that is NO-OX-ID.
    A lot of folks think that NO-OX is better for automotive use than dielectric grease. A lot even think it's conductive. It's not. It's made for power (mains) leads that are connecting aluminum cable or fittings, and for that it has no equal. It really should not be used for automotive or marine applications, or, really, anything other than AC applications.

    Some good reading here. This excerpt says it all:

    In regular low voltage multiple-pin circuit connectors, such as automotive applications, flooding with a proper insulating grease of low-viscosity dielectric grease is perfectly acceptable unless a manufacturer recommends against it. The grease should have good stability and not contain metals in any form, and be specifically designed for use as a dielectric grease. This generally is a silicone dielectric grease, although some Teflon based greases are acceptable.

    In single low-voltage terminals or connections, such as metal-to-metal joints, grounds, or battery posts, almost any pure grease of light viscosity will be acceptable. Caution should be used with greases containing metallic powders to be sure any metal is compatible with the embedded grease metal. Connection enhancement from embedded metal powder is very minor, if it exists at all, and there is increased risk of bad connections if the metal powder has any interaction with the base metals.
    ---------------------

    Non standard parts in CUCV?
    You offend against the pure OEM design!
    Evaluate self! Reflect and repent!

    Or... maybe not.

    M1028, M101A2

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to MarcusOReallyus For This Useful Post:

    privatevince (06-19-2019)

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