Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: Fuel Line Help

  1. #1
    General Rustyshackelford's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Tucson AZ
    Posts
    456
    Thanks
    28
    Thanked 149 Times in 89 Posts

    Default Fuel Line Help

    Hi,
    I've looked at the TMs and I can't find this info I"m about to ask for. The previous owner boogered the fuel line nut that connects to the lift pump. I'm on my second lift pump swap and the boogered nut isn't going to work this time around so I need to replace that fuel line and I need help locating it via part number or link please.

  2. #2
    General TGP (IL)'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Metro East IL
    Posts
    463
    Thanks
    1,367
    Thanked 244 Times in 154 Posts

    Default

    I don't have a part number, but this link might help identify it.

    https://www.clagrills.com/grillparts...re-fitting.htm

    It's 3/8 45deg. male flare nut.

    Tom
    "99" Durango
    "99" Dodge 3500 CTD Dually
    "86" Chev M1028A2 Dually
    "84" Chev K 30 6BTA,400 3.73,No-Spin
    "77" Chev K 30 400ci 400,4.56, No-Spin
    "65" Kaiser M35A1 WW
    "54" Willys M38A1
    "52" Dodge M37 WW
    "47" Dodge WDX WW
    My Photo Album http://www.t137.com/cpg/index.php?cat=10010

  3. #3
    Sergeant Major sneekyeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    ALABAMA
    Posts
    163
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 102 Times in 65 Posts

    Default

    Looks like its just 3/8 steel tubing if you look up the part number for the output line of the pump to the filter. If that's what you are looking for?
    It states to make from part number 3750950 for the line, 35.5 inches in length. If you just need the flare nut then its 411fs-6. Inverted flare 3/8 tube size.
    It might just be easiest to replace that whole line from the pump to the filter and call it a day if you can bend it up. The assembly for the hose is part number 14061503.

    pump hard line output.png

    Hillbilly Wizard sells the assembly for 20 bucks but shipping is near 30 dollars and that would probably get bent by the shipping apes.
    Last edited by sneekyeye; 06-19-2019 at 21:04.

  4. #4
    4 Star General /Moderator doghead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    NY
    MVPA
    8675309
    Posts
    25,932
    Thanks
    2,511
    Thanked 13,769 Times in 5,957 Posts

    Default

    Same as steel brake line.
    M817, M818, M819, M35A2 w/w, M35A2, M109, M105, M116A2, M101A2, Pioneer tool trailer, MEP-002, MEP-017A, 5ton winch shear pins, Oral-B toothbrush

    Ah Beefco Industries Northeast marketing associate

    Don't judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=12&v=T6BTcEwtmZo


  5. #5
    Sergeant Major sneekyeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    ALABAMA
    Posts
    163
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 102 Times in 65 Posts

    Default

    Advance Auto sells 3/8 steel line in a 40 inch length for less than ten dollars, and will loan you a flaring tool.

  6. #6
    General Rustyshackelford's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Tucson AZ
    Posts
    456
    Thanks
    28
    Thanked 149 Times in 89 Posts

    Default

    The nut is the only point of failure so I guess I could just replace the nut right? I don’t have any experience with doing that. What do you think?

  7. #7
    4 Star General Sharecropper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Paris KY
    Posts
    1,132
    Thanks
    533
    Thanked 684 Times in 329 Posts

    Default

    I just recently fabricated a new fuel pump output line for my P400 engine build while it is still on my engine stand, and I can almost guarantee you that you will not be able to bend and then install a new line while the engine is still in the truck. My recommendation is to obtain a good used replacement line from John at Hillbilly Wizard or other source and then install it. But even then, you will have to remove your passenger side alternator and intake manifold in order to snake the line into place. The original designers of the engine routed the fuel line along the top of the engine block in order to warm the fuel before it reached the firewall-mounted box filter. The line runs just above the engine block and just under the injector lines for the 2, 4, 6, and 8 cylinders. So it’s going to be tough to get a replacement line installed with the engine still in the truck. But I believe it can be done, you will just have to remove parts until it will go in. I may have some photos of my engine on the stand which shows the difficulty.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to Sharecropper For This Useful Post:

    TGP (IL) (06-20-2019)

  9. #8
    General Rustyshackelford's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Tucson AZ
    Posts
    456
    Thanks
    28
    Thanked 149 Times in 89 Posts

    Default

    Yikes no way. Let’s hear more about just replacing the nut.

  10. #9
    4 Star General Sharecropper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Paris KY
    Posts
    1,132
    Thanks
    533
    Thanked 684 Times in 329 Posts

    Default

    The only way to “just” replace the nut would be to push the nut up the line and tape it to hold it up, then use a close-quarters plumbers pipe cutter to cut off the flare so the damaged nut could come off. Then a new nut could be pushed up the line and taped to hold it in place, and then the end of the line flared with a flaring tool. However in my opinion, even this will not work because the line has a sharp 120- degree bend in it as soon as it leaves the pump, thereby making it impossible to slide the nut far enough up the line to get a cutter on it. Add to this the close proximity of the line and nut to the engine cross member. I really do not see how the nut can be replaced, even if the engine was out of the truck.

    Unfortunately I see no way to assist the OP. I believe if I were faced with the same problem, I would figure out a way to get a small set of vice grips or a miniature pipe wrench on the damaged nut to tighten it sufficiently to prevent a leak. May have to lift the engine up a couple inches to get enough clearance for the wrench.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by Sharecropper; 06-20-2019 at 05:03. Reason: Typo

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to Sharecropper For This Useful Post:

    TGP (IL) (06-20-2019)

  12. #10
    General Rustyshackelford's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Tucson AZ
    Posts
    456
    Thanks
    28
    Thanked 149 Times in 89 Posts

    Default

    Sounds like its time to convert to an electric pump

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •