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Thread: Starter Button Bypass

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    Private jwboing's Avatar
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    Default Starter Button Bypass

    No time to order a new button starter switch, I got to use this beast this morning and have been having trouble with the
    button switch engaging the starter.
    Normally when I wiggle the wires behind the switch i can get it to engage.
    Yesterday it took ten minutes of wiggling before I could get it engaged.

    If i get stranded I am planning on just cutting the wires to touch them to engage the starter.
    Am I asking for trouble by doing this?
    Thanks, JW
    1965 M35A2 ~ My First MV ~ One Prior Civi Owner that kept it stock. He served as a MV mechanic and instructor. One of the coolest things I have ever owned, thinking about making it my daily driver but i'm not use to all the attention!

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    4 Star General cattlerepairman's Avatar
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    Perhaps this helps: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ter-Relay-help

    You could just get a heavy duty start button from a tractor supply store and hook that up until you get a proper replacement. You can start the truck by shorting the wires but remember that, although the start button "only" engages the 24V starter solenoid on the engine block, the amperage is still quite high (so don't get zapped and don't weld the ends together).
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    -or a mechanics remote start tool/switch.
    I'm not saying let's eliminate all the stupid people. I'm just saying let's remove all the warning labels and let the problem work itself out.



    1997 M35A3C, 1987 M35A2C, 1973 M35A2C, 1971 M813A1 W/W, 1985 M931A1, 1985 M925, 1972 m817, 1984 M936, 1984 M923, M105A1 (4ea), 1972 M38A1, MEP 002a on M116A3. MEP531A, MEP501s
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    4 Star General rustystud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwboing View Post
    No time to order a new button starter switch, I got to use this beast this morning and have been having trouble with the
    button switch engaging the starter.
    Normally when I wiggle the wires behind the switch i can get it to engage.
    Yesterday it took ten minutes of wiggling before I could get it engaged.

    If i get stranded I am planning on just cutting the wires to touch them to engage the starter.
    Am I asking for trouble by doing this?
    Thanks, JW
    Just go to the relay solenoid on the engine block and "jump" it there. No need to cut your wires. You will need them after you get a new switch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustystud View Post
    Just go to the relay solenoid on the engine block and "jump" it there. No need to cut your wires. You will need them after you get a new switch.
    Just a note on safety. Anytime you crank a piece of equipment not sitting in the operator seat make sure its in neutral and parking brake set. I know of several fatal accidents due to people jumping the solenoid and then got run over or crushed because it was in gear. Just recently a close friend was killed working under a pickup truck sitting on a sloped part of his driveway. He was messing with the oxygen sensors with the truck on the ground. Best we can determine he knocked it out of park somehow and it rolled on top of him trapping him and he died pinned under that truck. A very sad ending that was avoidable. So please consider what can happen and follow good safety practices. We are all guilty of not doing that.


    Eddie

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    I would add proper usage of wheel chocks also.
    The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.

    -- Harlan Ellison

    Now, if we could only harness the power stupidity...


    1969 Kaiser M36A2 WO/W
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    Cutting and touching them together is fine, I just had a button issue and I did just that. Grainger has buttons cheap too I got mine for $5. Plus you're in the cab and can adjust the throttle if need be.. safer too.
    My exhaust casts a shadow!

    "When you need it and don't have it, you sing a different tune" Burt Gummer - Tremors II

    M35A2, M105A2, MEP-002, M1102..it seems that all my new toys start with an M..

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DeucesWild11 View Post
    Cutting and touching them together is fine, I just had a button issue and I did just that. Grainger has buttons cheap too I got mine for $5. Plus you're in the cab and can adjust the throttle if need be.. safer too.
    I like the idea of this but I am not techy enough to know which one on Grainger would work.
    Does it have to be rated 24v?
    I know amps are important so do you know minimum amps?
    Or,, a link to what works for you would be fantastic and over the top!
    Really appreciate it!
    1965 M35A2 ~ My First MV ~ One Prior Civi Owner that kept it stock. He served as a MV mechanic and instructor. One of the coolest things I have ever owned, thinking about making it my daily driver but i'm not use to all the attention!

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    I'm all for safety. I like to take my chances when the odds are in my favor. And, remember there's nothing wrong with helping the economy by hiring a mechanic if you're just not sure.
    Not so much a signature as a cry for help.

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    The starter buttons on both of my Deuces have been changed by the military mechanics to the pushbutton type. One works real well & the other just so so. If you are going to change them out, make sure the replacement switch is 24vdc rated with at least 10-15 amp capacity & is momentary contact/spring loaded. The higher the ampacity, the longer the switch will last. If you get a light duty switch, the current will burn out the contacts prematurely. If you get an on /off type of switch, the starter will run until you turn it off, not a good idea. A mechanic here @ work did that & burned the starter up on our fire pump diesel engine because after he started it, you could not hear the starter grinding away till after the system shut down & it was too late for the starter.
    1985/87 M35A2C Wo/w Deuce x 2
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