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Thread: MEP-004A, No output

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    General KLChurch's Avatar
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    Default MEP-004A, No output

    Guyfang requested I create a new post because of my other post is way too long and we are going to a different issue.
    At this point I believe we have fixed most of the problems of getting the Gen motor to start up.
    Now we are going to need info on the startup procedures so we don't blow something up.
    At this point I have started this sucker up and held the start up for 15 secs.
    The volt meter showed 100 volts after 5 secs.
    After I released the start it when to 0 volts.
    Still in process of doing the rest of Guyfangs instructions.
    Kris
    Murphy is my friend

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    General KLChurch's Avatar
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    This is from Guyfang
    Now when the gen set is cold, go around to the left side, and open the front door. In between the side of the gen set and the radiator, you SHOULD see a handle. When you push it down, it SHOULD spring right back up. The manual shutter control is what you have your hand on. Its supposed to work by itself. When you run the set, always close all doors. That way the gen set warms itself up right, and keeps itself cool enough. As the gen set reaches operation temp, (about 180) the loovers, (on the front of the set behind the grill) should open up. this way the set runs just right. Now these sets are kinda old. The loover control may not work right, or maybe adjusted wrong. There is also SUPPOSED to be a short rope with a hook on it to keep the loovers open, in case the control will not work right. That way you can continue to run, and not overheat the set. The loover control has bees wax in it to push a piston out, to open/close the control, regulating the engine temp. This is something you can check. Close it up, start it up, and read a book! Watch the loovers. Do they open up after a while?

    Next, earlier you told us that you had no hertz and volts on the meters. I am assuming the gen set still is that way. You should not assume that in fact it has no volts. TEST. TEST. TEST. Because I am here to tell you, assuming will bite you in the patootie. So go to the left side of the set. Open the rear door. the CB2, (output contactor) is there in front of you. Remove the two covers from it. Start the set. Remember to hold S2 up a bit longer, 5-10 seconds. Set runs, and let it warm up a minuet or two. Close the S3, (AC out put switch) and see if the light comes on. If it doesn't, Flip up the S7, and when its light comes on, Try the S3 again. Light come on? If you still do not have Volts/Hertz on the meter, go back around to the CB2, and measure between the terminals. From one side to the other. AC volts. Do the front three terminals, then the rear three. Got voltage? If you do not have voltage front or rear, we can ASSUME that the main gen hasn't lit off, (been excited). No out put, so no load test. Yet.
    Murphy is my friend

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    The posts are kind of upside down. My post is results from his post.
    Kris
    Murphy is my friend

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    Started the gen again. Put it in start for ten secs.
    Ran the gen for 1 min.
    Put the S3 switch on closed.
    Light came on.
    Kris
    Murphy is my friend

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    Did you do this in the normal running mode, or in S7 bypass mode? Did you measure AC voltage at the CB2, or at the output terminals?

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    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLChurch View Post
    This is from Guyfang
    Now when the gen set is cold, go around to the left side, and open the front door. In between the side of the gen set and the radiator, you SHOULD see a handle. When you push it down, it SHOULD spring right back up. The manual shutter control is what you have your hand on. Its supposed to work by itself. When you run the set, always close all doors. That way the gen set warms itself up right, and keeps itself cool enough. As the gen set reaches operation temp, (about 180) the loovers, (on the front of the set behind the grill) should open up. this way the set runs just right. Now these sets are kinda old. The loover control may not work right, or maybe adjusted wrong. There is also SUPPOSED to be a short rope with a hook on it to keep the loovers open, in case the control will not work right. That way you can continue to run, and not overheat the set. The loover control has bees wax in it to push a piston out, to open/close the control, regulating the engine temp. This is something you can check. Close it up, start it up, and read a book! Watch the loovers. Do they open up after a while?

    The above is not a show stopper, but helps you get to know this beast, and insures less problems later.

    Next, earlier you told us that you had no hertz and volts on the meters. I am assuming the gen set still is that way. You should not assume that in fact it has no volts. TEST. TEST. TEST. Because I am here to tell you, assuming will bite you in the patootie. So go to the left side of the set. Open the rear door. the CB2, (output contactor) is there in front of you. Remove the two covers from it. Start the set. Remember to hold S2 up a bit longer, 5-10 seconds. Set runs, and let it warm up a minuet or two. Close the S3, (AC out put switch) and see if the light comes on. If it doesn't, Flip up the S7, and when its light comes on, Try the S3 again. Light come on? If you still do not have Volts/Hertz on the meter, go back around to the CB2, and measure between the terminals. From one side to the other. AC volts. Do the front three terminals, then the rear three. Got voltage? If you do not have voltage front or rear, we can ASSUME that the main gen hasn't lit off, (been excited). No out put, so no load test. Yet.
    Just while the CB2 closed, and the light came on, is no assurance that the set is making VAC. BUT, it does tell us that most, if not all of the basic DC circuits are working. Very important. The CB2 is purely a VDC circuit. It has nothing to do with VAC, other then let it loose from the set. The CB2 has a set of secondary contacts in it that turn on the DS6, (CB2 on light)

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    So what do you think we need to do now?
    Kris
    Murphy is my friend

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    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    Start it up normally. Since you have already done this, we know the VDC circuits are good. Since you have turned on CB2, we know that's good. Both functions prove all your engine Safty switches are good. Do any initiative lights come on?

    You reported earlier that VAC came up during start up, then dropped off. So let's get it started, CB2 closed and you measure at the load terminals for VAC. If no vac is present, go to the CB2 and measure at both sides of CB2. If no voltage is there, go back to the S2 and hold it in the start position. Do the meters come up? If so, let S2 go. vAC drop off? Or will the meter still read VAC? Also don't forget, the engine needs to run at the right RPM. RPM=hertz. If you do not have VAC, the hertz meter will not read. So if the engine is running to slow, increase engin speed. If the throttle cable is all the the way in, it's too slow. Let's see if we can produce power now.

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    This is what I've done so far testing.
    Started up the gen and held the start for 15 secs
    Volt meter showed 100volts and herts was bouncing a little.
    Let the start go back to the run and volts went to zero and no more herts bouncing.
    No indicators lights on at this time or anytime during the test except at the first time I hit the run. Low oil pressure light lit up until the engine was running for a couple of secs.
    Then while the engine was running for a couple of mins I hit the start again and the volts showed 100 again and herts jumping the same way.
    Next I increased the voltage increase and then hit the start and while the engine running. All of this was done without shutting off the engine. Volts increased to 105 volts so I believe that the increaser is working.
    All this time also there was no AC ouput load on the Gen.
    Next I hit the closed breaker switch. No Volts and no herts jumping. The Breaker light came on.
    During this operation I hit the start switch and got 105 volts and hertz jumping. Let off no volts and no herts and breaker light still on.
    Kris
    Last edited by KLChurch; 08-13-2019 at 16:48.
    Murphy is my friend

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    As Guyfang said above, have you verified that the engine is in the rpm ballpark? I am not very familiar with a 004 but I do have a 003 and 804s. On the 003 and I believe the 004, you have a throttle which is not present on the 80X series. I once had the spring slip on the throttle when I mistakenly pulled it to idle (which you should never do on these generators) and it sure sounds familiar to what you are seeing. I would not trust the panel gauges until you can verify with a voltmeter. Lowes sells something called the Kill A Watt which plugs into the convenience outlet and I am pretty sure works if the main breaker is closed or open. You can then set your throttle to get 60 hz or also do it with a meter that has hertz setting. Are you reading volts off the output lugs, convenience outlet, or the panel gauges?
    Robert

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