Pyrometers

So I was able to pick up some pyro gauges for my trucks. They require a K type coupling. Is this the type that doesn't need power to work?

Right, a thermocouple generates its own little voltage, which can be displayed by a non-powered gauge (including the K-type). You will need power for illumination, though....

I just got mine installed last weekend. I can't wait to turn up the fuel to see how she will run.

If you calculate the amperage of the illumination requirements, you can easily wire a resistor in-line to allow 12v lights to run on 24v.

Best,
Bob

Or you could just order 24 volt equivalent bulbs. There is a cross reference in the Technical Articles section and the bulbs are cheap. I ordered some with extras for my gauges and the total was $16 with shipping for 10 bulb total.

Since the subject came up, I purchased a boost guage and pyrometer from Jegs.com a few weeks ago. They were around $130 for the pair made by VDO. In the past I have bought autometer guages and have never had a problem with the guages not function or not having all the hardware. VDO on the other hand, the boost guage did not come with any of the brass fittings or the plastic tube and the pyrometer isnt working. The guages look nice and match the stock guages but I guess you get what you pay for.

I used my own tubing and such and use a 15PSI fuel pressure guage for boost.. It was not very hard, even for me, having been called "Mr. clean-wrenches".

LOL, thats a funny one. you didnt seem the type when i walked through the radio store with you.

Re: RE: Pyrometers

cranetruck said:

Right, a thermocouple generates its own little voltage, which can be displayed by a non-powered gauge (including the K-type). You will need power for illumination, though....

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What all is needed besides the gauge? I like the K-type guage that has the yellow and red bars in it for warnings. I can't really find out anything else about what's need to install this gauge though.

RE: Re: RE: Pyrometers

VDO gauge requires 12 volt power and will not work on 24 volts. i calculated the current draw on 12 volts and used a resistor in series with the power to the gauge since it is a constant. i like the VDO better than others since it has a dc to dc amplifier for the meter and should be inherently more accurate.

RE: Re: RE: Pyrometers

Where are you guys drilling for your pyros?

Re: RE: Re: RE: Pyrometers

vtach said:

Where are you guys drilling for your pyros?

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Front or rear half of the exhaust manifold, pick one or use both....

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Hey Bjorn did you ever get to see how much boost that 757 puts out and at what egt's? Is that blow by entry port factory or did you add that? I would really like to do something like that to keep the fumes in the cab at a minimum.

Ummm,actually,Both....Also,if you use 2 gauges you can use standard 12 Volt bulbs.Just Hot bulb 1 to switched power,Ground bulb 1 to Hot bulb 2,Ground bulb 2 to ground.Instant "24V" lighting.

...or like this. Notice that the rear half of the manifold ("R") gets warmer quicker. Revving the engine results in even readouts, though.

Devin, I'm getting closer to a test run and will post the findings.

oh yea,those are Stewart warner gauges and I used the autometer probe kit.Works perfectly.No power run to them.One gauge is off.100 degree hot.Never goes to zero even when they showed up.I might swap out one of my zero reading ones.I know that when taking off from a light it goes to 900 degrees FAST and then nearly stops.Slowly climbs across the gauge after that and maxes out at around 1150 and WOT.I can hit 1200 on a hill after a long run.Think my truck is about setup perfect!Even though I might have to break out the super shims and adjust the fuel..........once I get a Boost gauge.......

I put a pyro in my Cummins and the front half of the manifold runs a little hotter and moves up a little quicker than the side with the rear 3 cylinders. It will idle at 300 degrees, cruising at 72mph and 1975 rpm, it will read 610, and I can peg 1500 degrees in 12 seconds from a stop to 84mph. The gauge only reads to 1500 so I don't know how hot it would get 1800 probably (won't try it for obvious reasons).

I would really like to get a little more power in my deuce, but I don't know how much room there is and what the max temps are? My cummins is an 06' and it will take more heat than the older ones. Anyone actually measure the power gain by just adding fuel? My cummins gave me an additional 138HP and 368ft-lbs with just more fuel.

Well, I am finally moving forward on this. I have had Stewart Warner gauges like FT, they came w/o probes or lead wires. I have just ordered a
Hewitt pyro gauge(79.47 with LED back light)p/n 010-210 b/br,
3 probes(28.78 each)p/n 015-001-b,
and 4 lead wires(22.20 for the new style-plug and 20.00 for the old style-ring terminals)p/n 035-008(new) p/n 035-004(old style).

I will install all the Hewitt gear and get a baseline of results, then install the SW gauge and see if there is a big temp change. If not I will run the SW gauge with the Hewitt probes and wires on my other trucks. Hewitt

How much did one set of stuff for that run?

According to the numbers, $130.45 for a complete pyro setup. That does not include shipping. I can post the Hewitt # tomorrow if you need it.