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Thread: Differential fluid leak at rear wheel

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    Default Differential fluid leak at rear wheel

    My driver rear wheel is leaking differential oil and I would like to fix it. Since taking the wheel off is a bit of a pain and then deadlines the vehicle in my driveway until I get the part, I was hoping to get the part ahead of time. The flaw in that plan is that I don't know what to order. I am assuming it is a seal. Does anyone know the name of that seal? I have the -24P, but nowhere does it say "hey dummy, this is the part you are looking for".

    Also, any suggestions for other things to replace while I am in there would be appreciated.

    Jason

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    Quote Originally Posted by 19Detail View Post
    My driver rear wheel is leaking differential oil and I would like to fix it. Since taking the wheel off is a bit of a pain and then deadlines the vehicle in my driveway until I get the part, I was hoping to get the part ahead of time. The flaw in that plan is that I don't know what to order. I am assuming it is a seal. Does anyone know the name of that seal? I have the -24P, but nowhere does it say "hey dummy, this is the part you are looking for".

    Also, any suggestions for other things to replace while I am in there would be appreciated.

    Jason
    Figure 143 #43 is the inner seal. Part # A-1205-R-2254 found on ebay.

    Might as well replace them all while you are in there.

    CTIS Seal # A-1205-Q-2435 on ebay
    Outer seal # 2297R6648 on ebay
    Last edited by simp5782; 10-22-2019 at 13:00.
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    [QUOTE=19Detail;2246165] Since taking the wheel off is a bit of a pain and then deadlines the vehicle in my driveway until I get the part.

    Need to put a S on the end of part. There was a maintenance kit that if I remember had everything you needed. If the CTIS seals really went bad and let gear oil through then yep as Wes said do the CTIS seals and hub seal. Myself I would just get enough to do both sides incase the other side decides to let go just when you do not want it to. Did you loose air in that tire?
    Last edited by Floridianson; 10-22-2019 at 13:52.
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    check your axle vent to make sure it is not plugged/ partially plugged. This will push out oil
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    It's been a year or so since I did my seals and switched mine over to both bearings to oil floating. I removed the CTIS but as I remember gear oil would have to go through two high pressure CTIS seals and the hub grease seal. Wonder if it is just the hub grease seal leaking grease and not gear oil?
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    Thanks everyone. You have confirmed something for me: I don't know what I am doing.

    In the interest of checking the simple/easy thing first, I would like to check the axle vent, but again, I don't know where it is. I don't see anything that looks like it in Figure 134 and I didn't see anything I would call a vent when I looked at the wheel.

    Floridianson's comment is a little concerning. The wheel did not/does not lose air. I think it is differential oil because the level in the differential is going down, so that oil is going somewhere.

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    All the seals are a 4 on the pain in the donkey to do. The setting up if the geared hub is a 7 to 8 on the pain scale if you have never done a hub set up. You will need a shim kit and I use a geared hub that has the face cut off to set the lash. Plus you need to make, buy or borrow the correct spindle nut socket.
    Last edited by Floridianson; 10-22-2019 at 17:59.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 19Detail View Post
    Thanks everyone. You have confirmed something for me: I don't know what I am doing.

    In the interest of checking the simple/easy thing first, I would like to check the axle vent, but again, I don't know where it is. I don't see anything that looks like it in Figure 134 and I didn't see anything I would call a vent when I looked at the wheel.

    Floridianson's comment is a little concerning. The wheel did not/does not lose air. I think it is differential oil because the level in the differential is going down, so that oil is going somewhere.
    If you do not know what you are doing then you should not touch it. You set that planetary up wrong then its really going to bite your wallet.

    You should really not touch it if you think taking the wheel off is a pain or a challenge.
    2008 F-250 6.4L Powerstroke
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    1984 AM General M915A1 (Big Cam III, HT3B Turbo, Brushless 24v Alternator with equalizer, A/C, Rear 20,000lb winch. 11R24 rear tires and 395s up front.)
    1984 AM General XM923A4 ( Big Cam III NTC-400, HT4B turbo, Intercooled, #10 button, Dual fuel Line setup - MRAP Aluminum Radiator - 7" Ram Air Intake system - Dual 115 gallon tanks - Air Conditioning - 145amp alternator - Puradyn Oil Bypass system, CAT 7155 16speed transmission, riding on 16.00 AT-3s on HEMTT wheels. )
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    M1083
    M1078
    M796 Bolster
    M322 Equipment Trailer
    MEP-804A


    901-318-8353 for Help in and or around the Memphis area or transporting in the southeast. Text me first before calling.

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    Videos at https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=5782simp

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    So, it looks like it was the wheel hub seal. It is in 3 distinct pieces. I have the wheel disassembled and I have one quick question. The -20 states to pack the inner roller bearings. That make sense (mine were washed clean by the differential oil). It does not mention packing the outer cone rollers. That makes sense (the rollers are not separated from the differential fluid so it seems like they would mix). The older post on planetary gear setup shows a picture of the spindle nut socket with a clearly packed outer roller bearing behind it. So my question, is do I pack the outer roller bearings?

    Thanks,

    Jason

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    The outer bearings are oil floating from the differential on the rears and added and just checked on the front. On the rears you could add to the hub as per the tm and then double check the level of the differential. If I remember right the diff. level was to be one inch lower than the fill hole. So yes correct level in Diff. will supply outer bearings on the rears.
    Last edited by Floridianson; 11-11-2019 at 14:27.
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