Multifuel valve adjustment TM?

OK, I've searched for the TM number for this and come up empty. Can anyone please point me to the correct TM for the procedure?

My M35A2C has never been a perky as my other deuces and has a fair amount of discharge from the road draft hose. I'm hoping a valve adjustment will help. The engine only has 6,200 miles on a Depot rebuild and, otherwise, it seems pristine.

Thanks

Lance

Take a look in TM 9-2320-209-34-2-1 for the valve adjustment procedure.

From the TM LDS-465-1A troubleshooting. I just adjusted mine yesterday.
Intake lash .010" exhaust lash .025".
Roll engine till #1 intake valve is at maximum open position. Adjust (1) INTAKE NO. 2, 3, and 6. (2) Exhaust NO. 1, 2, and 4.
Roll engine till #6 intake max open pos. adjust (1) INTAKE NO.1, 4, and 5. (2) EXHAUST NO. 3, 5, and 6.


I am not positive that other LD engines lash is the same(I don't see why it wouldn't be), But above proceedure is same for all 6 banger diesels. COOP

I need to do the valve lash adjustment too. This is my first Deuce so I'm not sure what should sound "normal" but my engine seems to have a lot of valve noise at around 2100-2200 rpm. But other than that everything seems to run well.


Unless that noise is "normal".

Sometimes with those injection pumps you will get a lot of noise also. And it will sound like the rockers!

I set my intakes at .015" instead of .010" because that is a little tite when the engine is fully warmed up and mostly cause RAM taught me this little tidbit. I also have serious engine rattle at 2000 to 2100 on all of my non turbo deuces, I bought my first non turbo cause the previous owner thought the noise meant the engine was gonna go bye bye. I have driven thaat Molly truck 10000 miles since I bought it from him. I suppose there is a harmonic in these motors that causes this rattle but I don't know where. I try to run 1800 to 1900 or 2100to 2200, to miss the rattle, seems to be working so far, 40 trucks, no blown engines

I would agree with setting the clearance a little looser, cause what would you consider a "cold engine" 60 Deg. or 100 Deg.

I also try to avoid that RPM range. That makes me feel better that the rattle is "normal".

A cold engine in NY is about 32 degrees!

Naaaah, it's not really cold unless your fingers stick to the door handle and leave a skin patch.

Thanks for the info everybody. Now I just need to fill my last few deer tags and get back into the shop and out of the wind!

Lance

LanceRobson said:

Naaaah, it's not really cold unless your fingers stick to the door handle and leave a skin patch.

Thanks for the info everybody. Now I just need to fill my last few deer tags and get back into the shop and out of the wind!

Lance

Click to expand...

I was told long ago the a motor is not warm until it is at operating temp.
On todays computer controlled crap, the computer will think that way until it gets to 210-220 and some higher. Then it considers it at operating temp.
My $0.05 worth

I know this is a older post but I thought this might help someone. I printed it and laminated it. Its my cheater card for when I’m doing the set.