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Thread: Deuce Power Bleeder R4x4 Style

  1. #31
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    I have the same question, can a power bleeder be used on a 1987-89 USAF deuce. If someone has done it, I think another cap would have to be found. The original plastic cap is flimsy.

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    Possibly a quick change adapter or hose barb could be placed through the cap with a washer and nut. Some silicone to seal or if there is enough room o-rings. Anybody know the part # for the cap?
    Thanks

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    I found a cap at my local Napa. It was exactly the same as the original except it had different writing on the top that said to use dot 3 fluid. I incorrectly thought the cap was flimsy, it's thin, but rigid enough to thread a 90 degree barb for a hose attachment. It took some time because I used a bit that was as small as possible and still turn in the fitting. The problems I encountered are the cap is vented under the rubber gasket and through the side of the cap. I tried to use some silicone sealer under an o-ring but the o-ring didn't seal well enough to the top of the MC so it leaked. An o-ring could work that was properly sized to the MC, but I'm 60+ miles to where the truck is so I wasn't able to experiment. While the cap is vented the system doesn't use that vent. There is another vent on the MC with a hose that terminates in the engine compartment. I found this out when I cut a hole in the cap gasket and used it and more sealer. Without a hole in the gasket, brake fluid can't be pumped into the MC, and with the hole in the gasket I was able to pressurize the MC. That's how I discovered that vent line. Now if you could pressurize the vent line, I believe the system would hold pressure and you could power bleed the brakes. As it was I pinched the vent line and resumed bleeding, but my silicone seal didn't hold in the cap, because when I took the o-ring out of the cap because it wasn't sealing, and installed the rubber gasket back in the cap, I also had to re-seal the cap with silicone and it wasn't dry enough and failed. So I had to go back to pumping the pedal. Being so far from the truck makes experimenting difficult. I did get a good pedal, but I still have old fluid in there I want to change. Plus the dash light stays on indicating a fault. I'm wondering if I could have a a hard pedal with only have half (front or rear) brakes working. The parking brake is also not working so that could be the reason for the light remaining on. I've got more work to do.

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    The odd thing I have't figured out with this truck is why there was air in the system in the 1st place. There is no sign of leaking wheel cylinders, actually no sign of leaking anywhere.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2deuce View Post
    Possibly a quick change adapter or hose barb could be placed through the cap with a washer and nut. Some silicone to seal or if there is enough room o-rings. Anybody know the part # for the cap?
    Thanks
    It’s all in post 22 & 23
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...=1#post1512754
    '88 AF M109A3 W/W CAMPER
    '04 M105A2 Trailer W/CBC
    Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hose Info HERE
    Lots of Deuce Brake info HERE

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    the napa cap I used is 675-1204. It is the same as the original with the vent in the side of the cap. The dorman cap looks to be the same on the outside, but does it have the vent built into the cap? If not it would be better than the original because it wouldn't leak out that side vent line in the original and the napa cap. Anyway the next time I'm at the truck I'm going to try to figure out if both circuits are working and why the dash light remains on and whats up with the parking brake, because it doesn't hold.

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    Update- I hadn't been to the truck in a week since I bled it and had a good pedal. The good pedal is now gone. The odd thing is when I push the pedal to the floor and release it I hear gurgling in the MC. Not a little bit but A LOT of gurgling. I did a smell test of the fluid I bled last week. It smells like dot 5 to me and is a dark amber, where the fluid in the MC is a greenish yellow. I think the prior owner (fire dept) changed the labeling on the truck to use Dot 3 only, and just added 3 to the 5 that was in there. As was suggested earlier...I'm now going to rebuild the entire system and go back to dot 5. Does anyone have any suggestions where to get wheel cylinder kits, a MC or a kit? I'm not sure if I'll try finding rebuild kits for the air packs of or have them done, by a shop. Advice is appreciated, as I haven't done this job before.
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    Dot 5 is purple. I got my Wheel cylinder kits from Big Mikes along with a set of shoes, seals, and boots. Boyce has them too. I pulled the front wheels and drums off, and everything was new inside, so I just changed the boot. on the inside boot clamp I cut it down about a 1/2 inch and slide a piece of 1/8 inch tubing over the threaded end to prevent possible rubbing.

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