Need to disable M35A3 CTIS

I give up on it.

I read that instructions for disabling it have been published but can't find a reference to it. Ran the search system and came up empty handed.,

So how do you disable the CTIS?

Thanks much.

Mine is unplugged at the control panel

I would think you would want to put a plug on the rims where the CTIS lines feed into the tire itself.

dittle said:

I would think you would want to put a plug on the rims where the CTIS lines feed into the tire itself.

Click to expand...

yup....

You disconnect the air line to inside tank and replace plug in tank. Think you reach around the control unit between the frame rails and there you will find a small male female wire plug disconnect. I am thinking there is one more wire that you have but it is not on mine and this will be the other larger male female plug that is as between the frame rails. I think this is where I will run another circuit as there is just a female plug there and I think it needs a power male run through a circuit breaker and I can fire mine up. As for the air lines you could disconnect at the first union you find by the backing plate where the line goes in or you could cut the line 6 or 7 inches from the backing plate and install a DOT fitting with cap to close off air line to tire.
I am trying to get mine up and running so if you could help me if your system is up and running reverse enginner it and tell me what is what. I think I need a power line run in to match the female line that is waiting for something. I want to see if the system works. I am not afraid of it. If the system lets the air out I will put the plug back in the tank air my tires up with the air hose I carry and go about my way. No big deal.

OK, shimmy in the front end causes me to remove the knobby tires and replace with highway type 1100-20s pulled from M35A2. NOw I need to cap the lug that the air passes through to the knobby tire.

That lug has normal threads until the last 1/2 inch, then it has 3/8 inch pipe threads.


Galvanized 3/8 inch caps don't have the right taper to suit the threads, and brass caps don't fit either.

I want to cap those pipes because I don't want air to leak from the various fittings on any of the tires, and out the open stud. I want the tires capped off, and the CTIS mech capped too.

My question is: does anybody know what will cap those studs properly?

Can't answer your question as to capping the stud*, but to solve your tire problem why don't you remove the wheel valve, stone shield, counter-weight and all the plumbing and simply put a valve stem on the 3/8" pipe that goes into the wheel. You then have a conventional (well almost conventional) tire and wheel set up. You can then take your time to determine the best way to disconnect the system completely from your compressed air system. You will also need to cap off the hubs to keep water and other stuff out.

I just noticed that this is post number 100 for me so I hope it is beneficial especially if you get a prize! Ron

*I believe the brass 3/8' pipe thread caps fit my studs. Anyway to keep dirt out while you tinker with it electrical tape does just fine.

PS you can sell the wheel valves and related stuff to those of us who are too stubborn to give up on trying to make this poorly designed (MOO) system work.

Hi rwoods.

You're getting to where I'm heading too. I'd like to denature the system so that air doesn't leak from anywhere (expecially the tires) but retain the capability of returning the system to operation.

I spoke with a friend at AM Gen and he told me that some of the trucks had faulty seals at one time. The true solution is to get new seals and replace them.

Here are what the caps look like.And adapters to convert the tubing to a regular stem.

Mark3395, as you can see from Monkeyboyarmy's pictures he is using brass caps. I think you should try this again as at one time I put similar caps on all my studs while I was having the tires replaced by a tire shop. I don't remember having any difficulty with matching the threads. With respect to the stems, if you prefer them straight as opposed to angled as shown you simply need a 3/8" female to 1/8" female brass adapter and a valve stem. You can find all the parts at either an auto parts store or a building supply store. The valve stems at your auto parts store are sold as an air compressor tank fitting. You will find them in a building supply store in the same section or in the well pump section. If you are going straight you should pick the short ones if you have a choice as the longer ones are more vulnerable to damage. Ron

That's outstanding. Simple. I'll do it.

The middle axle is giving trouble on both sides... that's where I really need to cut the air.

I'll now see about getting toe-in checked, and see about increasing castor as well. Both should help with the remaining shaking.

Thanks much.

Mark