Kaiser67M715
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How did you fix the airleak? curiosity should it happen to mine
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Got a Deuce! '62 M35A1
- Thread starter DavidWymore
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DavidWymore
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Drilled and tapped the vent hole. Diaphragm on the inside is rotted out. Doubt if it's available, so I'll probably eventually have to change the whole switch.
Mine is old style, yours may not be the same. I'll add a pic in a sec. Photobucket
Mine is old style, yours may not be the same. I'll add a pic in a sec. Photobucket
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Kaiser67M715
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I actually have a M35 Gasser, so I have that style as well, was curious how you solved for if I need to do the same. I may try to adapt the new style switch if possible(or needed)
DavidWymore
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I need to look again, but it might be a separate diaphragm and ring seal, and if the seal is separate, my seal guy can probably get me one.
Beautifully simple I think, spring pushes it down normally so it makes electrical contact until air pushes the diaphragm up. Top is threaded and adjustable, newer ones are not adjustable from what I read.
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DavidWymore
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Here is what I presume is an A1 primary filter.
On left, old secondary filter = big sock. New paper filter (on right in final filter can) would not fit the seconday "sock filter" can. Had to get a proper spring loaded seat from my A2 donor truck (old rusty can on floor in cab) and cut the spring down from 1" to .5", and trim the center threaded stem too.
All my old oil and fule filter where steel, new paper...seems still might be better, but probably no biggie. After changing fuel filters, I have more electric pump psi and it runs better, idles a little smoother, and does not bog as much if I rev it and then quickly let off, barely at all now. Used to even hunt a bit sometimes.
New radiator cap!
The rear...not much left.
Electrical, or lack thereof. One third 12v, one third 24v, one third missing, all trash except the starter stuff that I fixed. The orginal wires are all rotted off at the back of the switches and at the generator regulator. All the lights are missing except the headlights, dunno if they're 12 or 24...
On left, old secondary filter = big sock. New paper filter (on right in final filter can) would not fit the seconday "sock filter" can. Had to get a proper spring loaded seat from my A2 donor truck (old rusty can on floor in cab) and cut the spring down from 1" to .5", and trim the center threaded stem too.
All my old oil and fule filter where steel, new paper...seems still might be better, but probably no biggie. After changing fuel filters, I have more electric pump psi and it runs better, idles a little smoother, and does not bog as much if I rev it and then quickly let off, barely at all now. Used to even hunt a bit sometimes.
New radiator cap!
The rear...not much left.
Electrical, or lack thereof. One third 12v, one third 24v, one third missing, all trash except the starter stuff that I fixed. The orginal wires are all rotted off at the back of the switches and at the generator regulator. All the lights are missing except the headlights, dunno if they're 12 or 24...
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DavidWymore
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Need to research and then pop the trans open and see why it's falling out of gear and making such a racket.
DavidWymore
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I suspect the water truck PTO might be making all the racket. Was wired engaged, can't get it to disengage...yet. Got a half inch of dried up grease/oil/dirt all over it.
Trans doesn't make much noise in gear with TCase in N...maybe pop the rear sheetmetal cover and put the mechanic's stethoscope here and there and see what I can tell.
Trans doesn't make much noise in gear with TCase in N...maybe pop the rear sheetmetal cover and put the mechanic's stethoscope here and there and see what I can tell.
JawSaw
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have 1971 m35a2 American general with Hercules engine runs great putting around anytime I take it over 1500rpm it starts to surge and almost shut down till I back off throttle.need help! great truck otherwise.
e-mail any suggestions to pwrwag1949@hughes.net
e-mail any suggestions to pwrwag1949@hughes.net
Jeepsinker
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Nice hijack... Change all three of your fuel filters. One under your alternator, and two on the driver side of the block back by the firewall. All three available at napa. Part numbers are available in the " Deuce parts quick reference spreadsheet" in the stickies at the top of the deuce page.
rustystud
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Privates. What can you do with them? Train them, send them to school and what do they do ! LOL !!!!
rustystud
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The problem with the old style wiring besides just rotting rubber is the connectors (metal corrosion). The newer style connectors went totally to rubber incased connections eliminating that problem. You might just go ahead and buy a new style wiring harness. This way your would be ahead when you want to add an alternator or other equipment. I buy my wiring in bulk from "Eriks' and my connectors in bulk from "Amerline" military connector supplier. You must buy a minimum of 100 ea. but it is worth it.
Jeepsinker
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Get that pto disengaged, or remove it. Then sell it and put the money from it back into your truck.
Jeepsinker
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David, shop around. I know I saw a rear deuce harness brand new one one of the surplus parts sites for $150 a couple weeks back, and a front harness that isn't an exact fit, but easily modified to work for about the same.
DavidWymore
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Yanked Tcase cover after work. Epic filthy under there.
PTO is worn out, got it disengaged, didn't change noise. I have a Hyd winch I might use it for after rebuild later.
Loose and missing bolts and ujoints in the jack shaft, less noise now now that I tightened the bolts.
Noise is in trans, in all gears, worst when loading the drivetrain with throttle on or off(decel).
Figured out tcase range shifter just needs adjusted to get low range, woohoo.
PTO is worn out, got it disengaged, didn't change noise. I have a Hyd winch I might use it for after rebuild later.
Loose and missing bolts and ujoints in the jack shaft, less noise now now that I tightened the bolts.
Noise is in trans, in all gears, worst when loading the drivetrain with throttle on or off(decel).
Figured out tcase range shifter just needs adjusted to get low range, woohoo.
Attachments
Jeepsinker
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Ok, so ten more minutes and you can have the floor pan and trans top cover off, that way you can look inside and see what is going on. Most likely you just need some new bearings. You do have all the gears right?
DavidWymore
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That picture didn't post right. I've got all the floorpans off. Just got to pull the top cover of the trans. I only had an hour to work on it tonight. I'm guessing either bearings or maybe something wrong with the shifting linkage that's allowing things to drag. Gonna be thrashing on it all weekend. I'm seeing the light at the end of the road worthy tunnel.
As far as the electrical, I don't know. If I have to redo the whole thing, I think it would be a lot cheaper to do it 12V, and then I won't have a 24V unicorn. I'd rather just have it all 12 V then having converters for trailer lights, stereo, boost/pyro, CB, phone chargers, winch...at the same time, I don't want a military truck that looks all goofball with improper lights etc.
Jeepsinker
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If you wire that truck to be 12v, I'll drive all the way out there, slap the $hit out of you, and then drive back home. Do it right. These trucks were designed to be 24v for a reason.
rustystud
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I used to scuba dive off the south end of Whidbey Island. I drove my family over there through "Deception Pass" just last fall. It is a beautiful drive. My wife has gotten a bug about living on one of the islands lately. We have looked at "Orcas" and "San Juan" and "Bainbridge" islands. I prefer "Orcas" but the wife thinks it is too isolated. That's why I like it !
Jeepsinker
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I you need a trans top cover or something let me know. I have a good used extra on the shelf.
DavidWymore
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*Duck*
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?3022-Why-24V-system01-06-2008, 19:07 #16
DDoyle
4 Star General Join DateAug 2006LocationWest TennesseePosts1,743Feedback Score
Re: 24 Volts?Originally Posted by Longhunter7
There is another reason! The voltage that is used for Military radios happens to be 24 volts!
DING DING DING
We have a winner! According to the mililtary documents from the 1940s (and this should be correct!), the reason for the 24 volt electrical system was to ensure radio compatibility. Note the date on the attached Detroit Arsenal image.
Regards,
David Doyle
The only reason I see remaining to stay 24v is originality...