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Lifting a Bobbed Deuce

Ridgerunner

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I've been driving the Deuce with out any shocks on it, as the stock shocks are now much too short. My next step is to install shocks, front and rear.

I dug through some of my old parts left over from 4x4 trucks that I had parted out, or scraped out from over the years. I found the box that contained the shocks (mostly Rancho and Skyjacker) So I'll start there, and see which ones are the proper length for the deuce. Almost all the shocks came from Fords, so there isn't any in the pile that have the studs on each end, like the ones that are on the front of a Deuce. I'll have to impervise, with what I've got to work with.

I might do Quad shocks on the rear axle, just because I have so many shocks, and there is plenty of room under the Deuce to mount them.
 

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Ridgerunner

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I set some time aside today, to at least get the front shocks picked out and installed on the front axle. The shocks that were the proper length, had a stud on the top, and bolt/bushing on the bottom. I wasn't about to drop a hundred bucks or more, on a new pair of extended shocks for the Deuce. So I modified the shocks that I had on hand, by welding a bolt to the eye, on the bottom of the shock. Which in turn, made it a two-stud shock, like the original shocks had, that I had taken off the truck.

I thought it looked kind of "hillbillyish" with the now, unused open round hole where the original bushings use to be on the new shocks. So I tack welded a washer in place, then plug the washer hole with a rivet that had came out of the frame, when I installed the lift.
I usually don't take short cuts, but it's one of them things that I don't think anyone would even notice, if it wouldn't be pointed out to them. And it functions correctly, just the same, so I'm fine with it.
 

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What sort of welder are you using for this? All I have right now is the oxyacetylene torch setup, so I am planning on buying a nice Micro Inert Gas or Tungsten Inert Gas welder sometime in the near future. Which would you recommend? I am leaning toward the TIG, and I have seen a few on GL, but usually they get a bidding war going before a cat can lick it's butt...
 

Ridgerunner

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What sort of welder are you using for this? All I have right now is the oxyacetylene torch setup, so I am planning on buying a nice Micro Inert Gas or Tungsten Inert Gas welder sometime in the near future. Which would you recommend?
I have a MllerMatic-250 mig welder in my shop. This is what I used to weld up all the brackets in this build. I run .035, ER70 wire, with 100% Carbon Dioxide for the inert gas. I've had the welder for over 10 years, ran hundreds of pounds of wire through it, and never once had a problem with it. I think if you stayed with a good name brand MIG welder (Miller, Lincoln, Hobart or Century) you'll get a good machine. And I wouldn't buy one that's rated under 185 amps. Spend a little more money on a bigger machine, if you can. You won't regret it. You will always find somethig heavy/thick to weld, and you will have the machine to do it.

I also have a Miller 310 amp water cooled TIG welder here, but it doesn't get used like the Mig welder does. A TIG welder is nice, in that you can weld anything from Aluminum to carbon steel to stainless steel. TIG welders work great for small parts, and have the option of stick welding heavy plate if need be. I wouldn't buy a TIG maching rated under 250 amps, if you plan on welding Aluminum. Aluminum takes alot of amps, and with a bigger machine, the duty cycle is much higher and forgiving.

It's your call on what you will use most and what one will best suit your needs.
 
Ok, so I am slowly checking off the things I need to play copy-cat. I have a deuce, a 105A2 trailer, and hopefully I will be able to win five 12.5 x R20 Michelins tomorrow if I can somehow avoid a bidding war. Those XZLs are bigger, but do you know how tall the XLs are? I have looked over the info on them, but can't seem to find that dimension. I am thinking they are the 46" tire, which will be fine since I could probably get away with a 6" lift then.
Anyway, I really appreciate this build of your's. I especially like how the rear axle is centered well under the 105 bed. I've seen some others where the axle was too far forward. I think your deuce is the best looking one I've seen as far as bobbed ones go. It will be a challenge to get back into arc welding. I actually took courses in welding back about 20 years ago at the community college, and the instructor said I was a "natural" at it, but I am sure I will have some trouble getting the settings correct with the first few welds. I'll make sure I practice some before I actually weld anything that will be put into use, so none of you need to worry about seeing me on the road :(
I also am having a hard time seeing how you set up the jig to make all those brackets so close in tolerances. I would expect someone doing that quality of work was using a press brake or something like that to make those things like that. Really nice job, BTW... Yeah I think I mentioned that a few times, but that kind of skill deserves some praise. You sure you don't want to name a price for a similar kit like the one you just made?
 

Ridgerunner

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Holland, Mi
I am thinking they are the 46" tire, which will be fine since I could probably get away with a 6" lift then.

You sure you don't want to name a price for a similar kit like the one you just made?


I'd be up to making a few sets, when time would allow me to. This is a very busy summer right now for me. Just to let you know, they won't be cheap. As there's a couple hundred pounds of material (steel prices are up) welding the brackets inside and out, uses alot of wire, around 120 holes have to be drilled, and it would take up my spare time to build them. And depending where you live, shipping prices could be dissapointing. It could be the end of summer before I could make a set, but you never know.

I could do a 4", 6" or 8" lift. What ever you would require to accomadate the tire size that you choose. I think the stock steering would work, without modifacation for a 4" lift. Which would be the cheapest and easiest way to go.
 

Ridgerunner

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Holland, Mi
The steps on the truck measure 36" off the ground. It's a little much, especially for the wife. Today, I bent up some 1" 316 stainless tube for some drop step hoops. I made them to drop 10", and put an offset bend in them as well, to bring the step out some instead of just straight down. Now that I'm home and have them mounted on the truck, and I can see what they look like, I might remove them and put a little more offset in them, about another inch out. I just guessed at the offset when I made them at work.

To mount the steps, I welded a 1/2" nut inside each tube, and then used the original outer step support bolt hole (drilled out 1/2"). Which then I just had to locate and drill the one other mounting hole.

Polished stainless looks nice, but not on a military truck. Their screaming to be painted O.D.
 

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Ridgerunner

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Holland, Mi
Had the Deuce out for a Sunday drive. On my way home, there's a trucking company that has a scale in the parking lot, so I drove over it, and it seems to have gained some weight.

When I first bobbed the truck, it was right at 10,500#, with me in it, and a half tank of fuel. Now with the lift installed and running the 53's, it's at 11,780#. Thats 7,080# on the front axle and 4,700# on the rear axle.
 

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asgtoolman

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Florence SC
Absolutely beautiful workmanship and unbelievable attention to detail; hope mine comes out somewhere close to this--you have set the bar HIGH!!!
 

Ridgerunner

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Holland, Mi
Thanks for the compliments.

As for the BIG, NASTY, INTIMIDATING ROTTWEILER:roll::lol:

It's the wife's little Toy Poodle. (It's like her baby) He lets us know when someone pulls onto our property. So, he does makes a good door bell, but not that great as a guard dog. He does keep the barn cats in line though.:p
 

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