G749 preservation

Mr. AA you have the kindest way with words. We Thank You. The great thing about hooking in with the MVPA folks was enjoying all the experience they had to offer.

From the Dennis B's to the 350 M37 kids, the dog-tag maker, to the hosts of the Whitecourt Airshow that filled the fuel tanks of around 100 vehicles in 2012, to the families that are the hope to carry the hobby forward.......MV collectors and preservationists are some fine folk. Fine folk are fun to be around and when they're not around anymore, they can be absolutely sure, we think of them and are better because of them. From Johnny M who taught me how to convoy, New Yorker Gary Zito, Hap B., to Robert G, each one of them made life better. Robert was part of the 70's and 80's gang that hit the auctions, brought home the gold and saved it for another generation. The Cliff Carbols, Hank and Andy Lopo gang and a few others are still around doing it so we can still tell them how much we appreciate their collection efforts.


I guess this is the Early Deuce forum so saving some pics here makes perfect sense. Robert got to hang around the largest of the large, the pole truck. Whether pulling parts, drilling holes or picking up deuces with deuces, these people had some fun. We salute the pioneers of Early Deuce Preservation.



Thanks to others who hustle to save some history in museums and DM over at CMV for the pics, we can still see a museum piece.

G749 Tire Tear off Tech Tips from Mattech.

The diff swap got a start and I had to pull tires. Mattech said I should try his hammer wrench and a tiny blow hammer with some magic sand inside. The big sledge got pulled out just in case but I didn't need it. We highly recommend a magic filled blow hammer for those big psi removals. Didn't even break a sweat. For those novice tire removers, The letter 'L' on the driver side studs does not mean lefty loosey. It stands for Left hand thread and means lefty tighty, righty loosey.



I had to move the spare out of the way and have never checked out how the carrier works. At first I was puzzled how I'd lift the tire over the mounting bracket but it turns out there's this cool swivel underneath that stands the tire up. Easy offloading, easy loading.....kinda brilliant.



The torque rod bolts have 1 7/16" nuts....... All it takes to loosen the torque rod nuts is 4' of wrenches and 200lbs of short, fat, balding guy. Easy peasy. The nuts are loose and we're ready for a diff pull.

m1010plowboy said:

The torque rod bolts have 1 7/16" nuts....... All it takes to loosen the torque rod nuts is 4' of wrenches and 200lbs of short, fat, balding guy. Easy peasy. The nuts are loose and we're ready for a diff pull.

Click to expand...

And, teeth; you still got a working mouthful of original teeth, right?!!

"G749 Pillow Block Removal" from unit 113501174 to George the BATUS 135.

Removing coarse studs installed 70 years ago could be tough but for a fella with teeth, it's no problem. If I didn't have teeth, I'd be grinding my gums.

All you need to do this job are wrenches, hammers, punches, new vice grips, pipe wrench, benzene torch, fire extinguisher, penetrating oil, wax....and a white flag because all that stuff doesn't work. It helps because the two top studs can be grabbed with a pipe wrench but the bottom studs won the battle against a conventional attack.



The pillow is too tight to the pumpkin to cut the studs then slide the pillow block off so the studs must come out. There was a thought to cut the studs between the bracket and block but there was no guarantee that would work. I can slightly understand why the pillow block bracket on George was cut in half........slightly.

The stud has cone washers with coarse thread into the block and a fine threaded nut.



If a person is off grid, the 4400 generator, the Miller mig welder, clean nuts and appropriate wrench to fit your clean nuts is the fastest way to go. After fighting with double nutting and no access to the bottom studs with a pipe wrench, the welded nut solution took just a few minutes. After putting out the grass fire started by welding, I was able to get the studs removed using a welded 15/16 nut. Had time to clean up the matting surfaces, prime, chase the stud holes to clean em' out and think about remounting.



Does it really need a stud or will a bolt and lock washer work as a replacement?