Barrman
Well-known member
- 5,165
- 1,580
- 113
- Location
- Giddings, Texas
Pretty much every civilian alternator sold since 1987 in normal vehicles is a remove and replace type of unit. They are not rebuildable.
My skills and knowledge base for testing each individual component in an alternator have slipped because I haven't had to mess with rebuilding any in a while. I have Delco 10 SI or 12SI alternators in my M715, 1966K20 and Mini, but they haven't broken in years, so no practice for me.
Now that I have a M1009, I needed to get refreshed on procedures. A little history first.
1972 saw the introduction of the Delco Remy internally regulated alternator. Depending on the size of the case, they have different numbers. 10-SI, 12-SI, 17-SI and 27-SI. The smaller the number, the smaller the case. Amp ratings can be 100 plus for any case size.
The -20 and -34 manuals for the CUCV series talk you through the alternator removal, checks and even how to take it apart and test each component. The -34 takes you through the same thing the links posted below do. Same basic pictures too. However, they to me are a little clearer and easier to understand instruction.
The first few pages of the link below talk you through exactly what is happening inside the alternator in a pretty simple easy to under stand way as well.
This is the Delco site:
Delco Remy
Here is the specific manual for the 27-SI:
http://www.delcoremy.com/pdfs/service_manuals/legacy/1G-266.pdf
It is only 10 pages, so print it out and use it the next time you have yours apart.
My ALT 2 wasn't charging, I took it off, took it apart and replaced the regulator thinking, but not knowing that was the problem last week. It wasn't it, so I ordered a rebuild kit. $44.50 later I had all new parts for the inside of the alternator. I switched everything electrical out and it works great. Warthog led me to the above site. Now I can go test each part I removed and find out exactly what the problem was, order just that part and have a complete rebuild kit in the glove box for fixing things away from home.
Just so you know, the regulator and brush housing is the same for all the SI models.
Whenever you take a CUCV alternator apart, don't forget about the isolated ground wafers and the need to put them back in. Especially on the passenger side ALT. The drivers side can get by without them.
My skills and knowledge base for testing each individual component in an alternator have slipped because I haven't had to mess with rebuilding any in a while. I have Delco 10 SI or 12SI alternators in my M715, 1966K20 and Mini, but they haven't broken in years, so no practice for me.
Now that I have a M1009, I needed to get refreshed on procedures. A little history first.
1972 saw the introduction of the Delco Remy internally regulated alternator. Depending on the size of the case, they have different numbers. 10-SI, 12-SI, 17-SI and 27-SI. The smaller the number, the smaller the case. Amp ratings can be 100 plus for any case size.
The -20 and -34 manuals for the CUCV series talk you through the alternator removal, checks and even how to take it apart and test each component. The -34 takes you through the same thing the links posted below do. Same basic pictures too. However, they to me are a little clearer and easier to understand instruction.
The first few pages of the link below talk you through exactly what is happening inside the alternator in a pretty simple easy to under stand way as well.
This is the Delco site:
Delco Remy
Here is the specific manual for the 27-SI:
http://www.delcoremy.com/pdfs/service_manuals/legacy/1G-266.pdf
It is only 10 pages, so print it out and use it the next time you have yours apart.
My ALT 2 wasn't charging, I took it off, took it apart and replaced the regulator thinking, but not knowing that was the problem last week. It wasn't it, so I ordered a rebuild kit. $44.50 later I had all new parts for the inside of the alternator. I switched everything electrical out and it works great. Warthog led me to the above site. Now I can go test each part I removed and find out exactly what the problem was, order just that part and have a complete rebuild kit in the glove box for fixing things away from home.
Just so you know, the regulator and brush housing is the same for all the SI models.
Whenever you take a CUCV alternator apart, don't forget about the isolated ground wafers and the need to put them back in. Especially on the passenger side ALT. The drivers side can get by without them.
Last edited:
. You are such a posting 
.
