Electric fuel pump thread

I was asked to do a write up about how to swap in a electric fuel pump, so here it goes.

I was having problems with the fuel draining back down the fuel line when the vehicle was left on a flat ground or when the front of the vehicle was higher than the back. To help when cold starting in the morning i parked it nose down and that worked until i got to school on parked on a flat ground, i had to crank and crank and crank and crank then surging then it would stay running.

So after doing a lot of research on SS I i found a couple of things that would cause this one being the fuel return line valve on the injection pump, and the other being a diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. I cleaned the fuel return line valve with carb cleaner, that made no difference. So i was looking at mechanical fuel pumps and found a good one to be around $40, Then i started looking at electric ones and found a good one from Mr. Gasket and yes it was diesel certified. It was $59.99 at Orielly auto parts, I bought it and went to install it.

First was i taped into a switched power into the fuze box, and hooked up a fuse, 5 amps. Then ran a wire to a switch by the steering column. then went thru the firewall and down the frame, using zip ties to keep it from hitting moving parts or hot parts. Then cutting the fuel line as close to the tank as possible. and mounted it with the ground on the mounting bolt. I then put the supplied fuel filter into the pump and used rubber hoses to connect to the existing fuel system, using band clamps to hold it in place. Then soldered the power wire coming from the switch to the fuel pump wire. And then your done. Took about 1 hour or 1 1/2 Hours, not that hard to do but solved a BIG problem.

The next day i turned the key on hit the glow plug button for a few seconds and turned the pump on 10 seconds before i cranked it and she fired right up without struggling. Then about 5 hours later after school went out to start her and held the glow plug button then fuel pump 10 seconds before starting, and she fired up in less than a second of cranking and the outside temperature was 20 degrees when i didnt have the electric fuel pump and it was this temperature it was 2 10 second cranking periods with 2 minute brakes in between then a 5 second crank then it started. I am very happy with the swap and if you are having the same problem and you know its not the glow plug system (I eliminated that as the problem a while ago) I would do this swap.

I will post pics tomorrow since it is dark out now.

Below is the link to the fuel pump i bought

Mr. Gasket 12D - Fuel Pump | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Thanks much.

We already have a thread on this topic, you should post your experiences and photos there then delete this thread.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/48444-electric-fuel-pump-install.html

EDIT: Actually, I see you posted in that other thread prior to starting this one. Why start a new thread on the topic??

This is a helpful writeup, thanks.

Question: did you install a 12v pump? If so are you using a converter?

Cheers,

This thread is 12 years old and the man that started it has not been on the site since 2011. Take your mouse over his name and it will show you his last activity date. And since the CUCV is 99.9% 12 volt you will NOT need any converter. Good Luck. My vote is for the stock diaphragm pump. Tried and true and last a very long time. No real advantage to adding an electric pump. And if you do it should have a momentum kill switch so it quits pumping fuel in the event of a collision.
What is the purpose of inertia switch?


In case you don't know the inertia switch, it is designed to shutoff the fuel pump in the event of a collision, as to not create a fire hazard if a fuel line is damaged. Inertia from a crash was used to trigger the switch.
Take Care Be Safe.

cucvrus said:

This thread is 12 years old and the man that started it has not been on the site since 2011. Take your mouse over his name and it will show you his last activity date. And since the CUCV is 99.9% 12 volt you will NOT need any converter. Good Luck. My vote is for the stock diaphragm pump. Tried and true and last a very long time. No real advantage to adding an electric pump. And if you do it should have a momentum kill switch so it quits pumping fuel in the event of a collision.
What is the purpose of inertia switch?


In case you don't know the inertia switch, it is designed to shutoff the fuel pump in the event of a collision, as to not create a fire hazard if a fuel line is damaged. Inertia from a crash was used to trigger the switch.
Take Care Be Safe.

Click to expand...

All good points, thanks for chiming in. My original pump wasn't working correctly so went with an electric as a fallback. Now finding the electric pump has failed me a couple times -- kills the engine while driving. Just purchased an OEM fuel pump from Midwest Military Equipment. Oddly they sell an aftermarket "replacement" version of the same pump for more money (a rep confirmed it's for stocking reasons).
Appreciate the safety note on fuel pumping after an accident. With the current setup I'd know to kill the electric with the cutoff now.
Thanks again!