Clutch/tranny issue...

Well yesterday on my way back from exton, I'm about 5 miles from home, and I start noticing that when shifting to first after hitting the clutch and waiting my usual 4 seconds for the gear to spin down, that it seems the gear was still spinning. "okay" I think "maybe I just tried to go to gear to quick" so at the next light, I wait about 10 seconds, still a little grind. "odd" says I, but come to the next light, go for first after having the clutch in through a whole light cycle for an overkill check, and GRIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIND. So next thing I do is quickly put her in low and take off in 2 lo then up to 2 hi so I'm not holding traffic with my now 1st-gearless deuce.

I've come to the conclusion that it may be time to adjust my clutch, lol. It deffinatly sounds as if the PP isn't releasing the clutch fully judging by the not stopping 1st gear, and the scraping noise when I go for 2 lo instead. I've looked at a few threads but they all seem to be about all the trans-out adjustments. Could someone point me in the direction of the correct TM for adjusting and figures and such? And incase it isn't in my sig, I've got the LDT465 in my truck, I saw that there seems to be a difference depending on engine for adjustments. I'm hopig I don't need a new clutch just yet, my wallet has a case of Christmas anorexia.....

Thanks in advance,
James

Fyi There is no sicronizar on first or reverse. I typically shift to third then first.

Scraping noise I am clueless.

I can not spell

I'm thinking that after your longdrive the trans oil warmed up , thus allowing easier gear spinnage, mine does the same thing.

As heavy stated there's no synchro for first/reverse, I will shift to third once stopped to stop the input gear from spinning, then try to find 1st. while feathering the clutch to ingage 1st.

I usually start out in 2nd, feathering the throttle and clutch gingerly as to not shear the key.

Not that this is your problem but you must have the little return spring on the peddel. I just replaced a new clutch for a friend that had his mechanic do it and did not go more than six months. Buy takeing off the inspection cover the TO bearing must not hit the fingers. You can conferm buy looking while the motor is running.

CC- I don't think it has to do with the drive only because I've made this drive about 10 times so far in the deuce, plus the 2 or more hour drive back from jersey earlier this month.

HS- I know about the non-synchro 1st and reverse, that's why I give the shaft time to spin down to a stop before shifting into first or reverse, that one took about 10 minutes to figure out on recovery day (2 immediate attempts to shift into first at a light) and after that I learned to just hold the clutch about 5 seconds before putting the trans in 1st or reverse

FS, do you have a picture of this spring you're talking about?

Monday me and soldier B will get the inspection cover off and do some investigating with the truck off and running as well. Hopefully it's a simple issue of needing adjustment.

Hate to say this but it does sound like the same thing that mine was doing/did last month. It is now in the shop getting a new clutch, PP, rear main, output shaft seal, oil pan gasket, and some other overdue stuff done to it. The clutch and pilot bushing were worn beyond belief. 52K on the truck and is probably the original clutch.

If you do tear into it and find you need a new clutch and PP, let me know. I have two sets for sale. Long story but I bought one and then has 2 come in a big LOT of stuff that I didn't know was in it. So $500 bucks spent for what I could have had 2 weeks later.

Check this other thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/61477-new-deuce-has-problem.html

G.

Gringeltaube is right. I'm having the same problem. Take a look at my thread. I have just posted the latest on what I have done and found.

Mine does the same thing. I had to pull my trans after I grenanded the input bearing on the trans after playing in a bunch of snow on a mountain last winter. I figured while in there I'd fix the clutch not releasing correctly. After looking at everything and finding nothing wrong I reinstalled my trans. I have come to the conclusion that it's just my trans and it works fine as it is. So I shift 3rd then 1st at a stop light. And hold my foot on the clutch at a red light. If I let off and idle with the clutch out. It is almost impossible to get it into 1st without a bunch of grinding.

Well, if worse comes to worse, I'm hoping me and soldier B (and possibly C) can get the trans out and back in in a weekend. it'll be infinitely easier if I can coax my stepfathers forklift back to life (electric.......and it's been sitting......) so Monday I'll be consulting more forums and TMs with my iPod from the greasy side of the truck, hopefully I dont need to drop it, but I never have good luck like that

Thanks guys, and CARNAC, if I need it I'll get aholda ya via PM

-James

There is an inspection plate on the underside of the bellhousing, You can get to the clutch from there to see if it is worn.

On a side note, if you need to pull the mainshaft you DO NOT need to pull the entire transmission.....ask me how I know...... PM me if you need any info on pulling the mainshaft.

I knew about the inspection plate, but thanks for the heads up. I may need this secret input shaft fu u posses, I may need a throwing bearing, it's a tad noisy, but still shifting good, I just needed to learn the third then first trick

how will pulling the mainshaft help with the clutch? i must have missed something!



well, anyway, do this. put some oil on the spline of the input shaft where it goes into the clutch disk. it may help to blow some air on it to move the oil up into the clutch hub. did this start with cold weather? if someone greased the spline or hub when they put a clutch in, the grease may have gotten dry and sticky. when you push the clutch in, the disk has to float back free of the flywheel. this is why organic disks have grooves in them, to pull air in and help this happen. metalic pad disks do not have this feature but the seperate pads tend to do the same thing.

tom

Sorry about that, I misread it as input shaft. I may or may not need a TO bearing, this only started with the cold so I'll look for grease and give that oil a try if it's the case, and I'll also hit the zerk with some grease as well tomorrow, about one pump? Thanks Tom

-James