A3 Air/Steering Issue

Maybe search is my friend. I found the earlier thread which talks about a Norgren R07-200-RNKA air regulator. They seem to be around $20-25 on Ebay. Is that the correct model?

Would a MWO 9-2320-386-20-1 help with this problem? 9 buck part.

You can bypass and get ride of the Regulator.

I bypassed mine. The manual says the steering is supposed to be getting +/- 40 PSI. My truck usually runs 120 PSI. I haven't had any problems with the extra pressure, and it steers like a dream.

I had considered putting an aftermarket regulator with gauge up on the firewall where the shut off is, but since I haven't had any issues, I haven't been in any hurry. The regulators are cheap. +/- $10.

When I put my air o steering on I left the regulator off due to the high failure rates. My truck air pressure is set at about 105. When I installed it I put air tool oil in the ram and drag link and worked it around. It works great !

I bought my replacement on flea- bay for $25. It's the norgren and it was the exact replacement, even down to the billet aluminum screw on cover. They are on sale all the time.

To the poster that has the truck air set to 105 psi, I hope you never get pulled over for a dot inspection. 105 max psi on the brake system is a fail. It needs to be a minimum of 120 as I recall.

I bought my replacement on flea- bay for $25. It's the norgren and it was the exact replacement, even down to the billet aluminum screw on cover. They are on sale all the time.

To the poster that has the truck air set to 105 psi, I hope you never get pulled over for a dot inspection. 105 max psi on the brake system is a fail. It needs to be a minimum of 120 as I recall.

Good information here!

Rustygears said:

I bought my replacement on flea- bay for $25. It's the norgren and it was the exact replacement, even down to the billet aluminum screw on cover. They are on sale all the time.

To the poster that has the truck air set to 105 psi, I hope you never get pulled over for a dot inspection. 105 max psi on the brake system is a fail. It needs to be a minimum of 120 as I recall.

Click to expand...

TM says 85-120psi on the gauge and adjust to 105psi. If you have it set at 120 which is the limit of the gauge I have in my truck how do I know what I have ? Is it stuck, is it reading more/less ? I know lots of people set it to the max, I prefer to use the TM.

Fed DOT rules on air brakes (including air assisted brakes) is that cut-in must be at 90 or more and cut-out at 125. System must be protected with relief valve at 150psi. Also requires supply gauge and audible alarm, which triggers at 60 psi. Must build to 100 psi from 85 psi within 45 seconds. Cannot lose more than 3 PSI in 1 minute engine off/brakes applied and 2 psi per minute without brakes applied.

Rustygears said:

Fed DOT rules on air brakes (including air assisted brakes) is that cut-in must be at 90 or more and cut-out at 125. System must be protected with relief valve at 150psi. Also requires supply gauge and audible alarm, which triggers at 60 psi. Must build to 100 psi from 85 psi within 45 seconds. Cannot lose more than 3 PSI in 1 minute engine off/brakes applied and 2 psi per minute without brakes applied.

Click to expand...

Great info !

thanks.

Will that little black valve near the firewall on the drivers side sent more air to the steering?

If you remove the cylindrical cover that screws on over the bottom, it exposes the adjustment knob. It is a standard regulator and you screw in the knob for more pressure and screw it out for less, assuming that the reg is working. These regs are very often leaking and inoperative. It accounts for many of the claims that the air o matic isn't working. Do a search. I posted an article with pictures showing replacement and how to add a tire valve so you can measure the pressure appllied to the steering system with a tire gauge.

Rustygears said:

If you remove the cylindrical cover that screws on over the bottom, it exposes the adjustment knob. It is a standard regulator and you screw in the knob for more pressure and screw it out for less, assuming that the reg is working. These regs are very often leaking and inoperative. It accounts for many of the claims that the air o matic isn't working. Do a search. I posted an article with pictures showing replacement and how to add a tire valve so you can measure the pressure appllied to the steering system with a tire gauge.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I think it's the reverse though. I turned the nut almost to the top of the thread making the spring more tight, making it very hard to screw on the canister and my steering got a bunch better. Not like a car, but better.

What exactly is the purpose of the regulator? I see a lot of people bypassing it, aren't they worried about blowing seals on the assisted steering? And if they're rated for 120PSI why have it at all?

Not sure why they regulated down the truck service air to run the air assist steering. The difference between stock and bypass will certainly have an effect on the amount of force generated as well as the rate at which the assist will respond. All I can figure is that there was a desire to limit the assist force during the small wheel movements and the short duration application cycles seen on highway versus the great assistance provided in a parking lot or at very slow speeds.

Rusty Gears,
I hope you do not mind me calling on you, How much air tool oil dit you put in the Draglink, and did you pour it just in the connecter after removing the hose.
Also dit you put oil in the jack attachted to the tierod.
I would like pricise answers so I can do the same.
Also do you think that, that is what my problem is with my shimmying
If the air assist is not working well, I dit put the regulator on my fire wall so it is easy to check.
I have a similar truck as you have I am also a MVPA member
Willy
You may also answer by email at willyd@hughes.net

When I added air tool oil to my A3 steering, I added 15 - 20 ml into the draglink only. The oil will work its way through the system. I also jacked up the front of the truck and proceeded to move the steering wheel to full lock in both directions for 25 - 30 times. This immediately cured about 90% of my issues, the most important was the dumping of air at full lock in both directions. Driving the truck on a regular basis for the next couple of months completely cured the issues. I have never adjusted the regulator. I did purchase a spare NOS regulator just in case. This will not have any impact on the A3 'death wobble', or at least it didn't in my case. The best thing I have found is to turn off the CTIS and run 60 psi air in all tires. This doesn't cure the death wobble, but significantly reduces it and makes the truck drive much better. My CTIS works fine, but if I turn it on, the tire pressure is reduced to 45 psi. Don't put more than 60 psi in the tires, because the Michelin wheels are only rated to 60 due to the o-rings. Do a search on the forum. Others have apparently had some success with correcting the death wobble by balancing the tires by adding weights to the wheels, sometimes with extra lug nuts.

I put a capfull of MMO into the inlet to the drag link as indicated. I then reconnected the air line and worked the wheel in both directions about a dozen times and then repeated oil application for a total of 3 times. This freed the drag link - mine was leaking 'on' all the time. The oil will pass through the drag link and in turn oil the steering ram. If you're really concerned, keep oiling & exercising until you can see evidence of oil in the exhaust of the drag link by disconnecting the large diameter pipe where the two individual exhaust line join. Also, make sure your dryer has been properly serviced and the tanks fully drained of moisture before oiling the drag link so you're not just shoving more snot into the air assist steering system.

Thank you both I will do that, what is MMO oil.
Willy