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Yes to the signals, but I have to think it thru. I may go 12 volt depending on how the grill and headlights go. was contemplating a seperate wiring system for my add-ons
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First '52 XM211
- Thread starter hendersond
- Start date
- 1,171
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- Galesville, WI
I'm planning on reworking the lights up front a little. Will add turn signals and under body lights. Planning on having the underbody lights go on with a door switch and light up the ground around the truck so I can see where I will be stepping. May work in a timer so they stay on a few seconds after?????
Gunfreak25
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You can most certainly pickup a spring loaded light switch to fit in the door jam. That is a good idea, I may do it myself. I contemplated the 12v conversion too, but by the time you change out all your gauges, headlights, bulbs etc it makes it so much cheaper/easier to stay with 24v. Which in my opinion, is superior to 12v in that 24V puts less strain on electrical components (half the amperage), easier cold weather starts, less chance of having connection issues with 24v due to the higher voltage. And now a days you can find almost anything in 24v on the net.
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I'm going to leave the existing wiring harness as is. If I change anything I make/add an auxilary harness along side the 24v one that runs 12v lights.
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Unfortunately is is too windy to paint the frame black today. I just had to put the wheels on to see how they look.
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- 7,583
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- 83
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- Cheyenne, WY
Those look alot like the tires off the M59 but red? Just saying.....
- 1,171
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I thought about "borrowing" them, but somebody parked it in the lowest spot they could find and the jack sinks in the mud.
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Fired up the sandblaster today. Used "black magnum"coal slag. Dirty as heck, but really removes the paint. Got all the small stuff done and the inside of the doors. Will use the DA for the flat areas of the doors so they don't warp. The stuff removes the paint so fast, I don't think they would warp. Should be priming and painting Sunday.
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- Galesville, WI
I need to get this thing to run correctly. The choke has to be partially on, it misses for a while and it stumbles and dies when I give her the berries. I got a carb kit from maccus and tonight is the night. I'm looking for something that feels obvious. it must have an airleak or something plugged iinside. First thing I see inside is Form-a-gasket, that could plug it up.
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- Galesville, WI
As I get inside I dont see anything plugged. I expected to see the silicone in the passages but don't. The top of the power valve is free. I expected to see that seized. The gasket around the governer linkage is leaking, but that just keeps the water out, it's not a vacuum leak. The accelerator pump leather is a little shriveled, that may be a problem.
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- Galesville, WI
The float is good. the cover over the accelerator pump has a shrunken gasket. Not a vacuum leak, but will let water in. It is interesting there are seals where I have never seen seals and under a gasketed cover to keep the water out of the seal.
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Gunfreak25
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It is pretty awesome to think of an internal combustion engine setup to run 100% submerged, it's easy to do on a diesel. But on as gasser, not as easy. But GMC really pulled it off with the threaded spark plug wires and how they put gaskets and seals over every darn thing imaginable.
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Well, here are 2 definite problems. The accelerator check valve is stuck and full of hard white corrosion. Had to get in there with a seal pick and carb spray. Took a lot of effort and tapping to get it loose. I suspect the accelerator pump didn't work at all. The power valve well is badly corroded I ran a scraper around in there and will soak it on a gallon of carb soak overnight. I'll follow all the passages with carb spray and high pressure air in the morning.
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Gunfreak25
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Are the GMC carbs plated like Qjets?
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I'm looking for a fording kit with intent to try it. I just wanna say I did it.
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If your referring to that gold coating to keep the corrosion down, I'm not seeing it.
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My brake peddle goes to the floor. Tried to bleed it and the fluid runs out the end. Thought about rebuilding it, but found a new one for $93 at Oshkosh equipment here in wisconsin. I expect to see it Wednesday. The master looks fairly good. I'll rebuild it for my next truck.
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Gunfreak25
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- Yuma, AZ
- 1,171
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- Galesville, WI
Thanks for the heads up. I called and asked, the m35 had one part number, the 211/135 had a different number. I hope it is correct.
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Well I got the carb back on and it runs different, but horrible. Choke on 100%, no stumble. Open the ckoke a little and it dies. Accelerator pump is now working, but I'm suckin air inside somewhere. May as well start tearing it apart and see what I did wrong. It is not pulling fuel into the venturies. It must be in the upper half????????