Front axle seals and boots stepXstep

Tow4 said:

Maybe you mean "lbs" instead of "psi"?

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Yea happens when ever I get the good stuff. Glad I got my medical card, say what little monkey PSI = puffs per square intake. Yea did not want to confuse anybody so not only "lbs" but foot pounds not inch "lbs''. I corrected my no thought thought post.

Floridianson said:

Yea happens when ever I get the good stuff. Glad I got my medical card, say what little monkey PSI = puffs per square intake. Yea did not want to confuse anybody so not only "lbs" but foot pounds not inch "lbs''. I corrected my no thought thought post.

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Your story so you can tell it anyway you want. Note; the psi's do increase as the foot pounds do as they are proportionate to each other. lol
jimm1009

jimm1009 said:

Your story so you can tell it anyway you want. Note; the psi's do increase as the foot pounds do as they are proportionate to each other. lol
jimm1009

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Thanks really I think it was 3 am and could not sleep. Yea I am better after 12 am and the coffee has kicked in. Just to add I could not do it but yea PSI can be converted to Nm. from what I read.
Side note I miss the young mans sleep habits. Last two years best I can do is maybe 5 hours at night and a 2 pm quick nap for 30 min. if I am not away from home working / playing.

Now we get to the true true. There is a guide where we can go by pitch number of threads per inch to get us close. Then we should be or in the case of the truck in a shop we / they would take a dial indicator and set it to specs 0.001- 0.005 10420_Wheel Bearing Adjustment_Poster.pdf (timken.com)

Floridianson said:

There is a guide where we can go by pitch number of threads per inch to get use close.

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Good info, there! According to that chart- and being that our spindles are 16 TPI, and nuts being locked with a "tang type washer", that would be a 1/4 turn final back off for the adjusting nut and the outer (jam)nut torqued to 200-275 lb*ft.
Of course that all depends on how much play there is, between spindle- and nut threads. For OEM parts there is almost none, ideally. Nuts (used or new-aftermarket) that you can actually wiggle on the spindle should be discarded!

I need some advice here. I may be at a work stoppage due to discomfort in lack of knowledge. I am doing my brakes, wheel cylinders, bearings, and seals plus boots up front.
I have two pics of the return spring. One is the old. original spring installed and one is with the old original next to the new "replacement" purchased from a reputable vendor.
My concern is this. the new spring is 3/8 of an inch shorter and of course much stronger due to being new. I am sure that the old spring being heat soaked many times over the decades has made it weaker but the old spring seems relaxed and within the manufacturer's original length while removed. A new spring being shorter seems like a really big no-no especially since it is much stronger being new. I installed one drum but am stopping here until I get some valued opinions.
Note; The bag did not have the part number on it and could be the famous N.S. replacement but I personally do not know. I guess I will contact the vendor as well to see about this from their side.
UPDATE: I measured the new and old springs today in the daylight and the old spring is 7.750 inch over all length and the new spring is 7.250 inch long so that is .5 inch difference.
jimm1009
aka, Jim
PS: Boy are these tires heavy!

jimm1009 said:

..... the new spring is 3/8 of an inch shorter and of course much stronger due to being new.

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It is stronger (= stiffer) mainly because it has less windings.
I would use them only if changing all six - or all 4 at least, on the rears - before hitting the road again.

gringeltaube said:

It is stronger (= stiffer) mainly because it has less windings.
I would use them only if changing all six - or all 4 at least, on the rears - before hitting the road again.

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Thank you Sir. I agree and I will put all four on the rear axles. I am planning on doing the front axle too but that is a longer project due to inner seals and boots in addition to bearings, wheel cylinders, and seals so it is a "next weekend" thing. I will purchase two more so that I have all six springs of the same design.
Update: I am going to buy 6 new springs from a different vendor so that they are matched in strength and length as well.

I would double-check if its the correct spring. The old spring does not look like its longer because its old, but because it really is longer and has 3 windings more. The newer spring might be for a different truck.

For the rest, I agree with the above, you cannot replace only one: the pressure needed for the new spring would be bigger, and your truck would brake initially only on the old springs and go side-ways. Best all 6 springs.

The spring being shorter and stronger is not a problem as long as they are all matched. These are just shoe return springs. They would be harder to install though, on an already difficult spring to install.

I'd almost be willing to bet these are Newstar brand springs. Not that they're poor quality, but they're always different from originals because they're made for Korean KM-250 deuces.

Jeepsinker said:

The spring being shorter and stronger is not a problem as long as they are all matched. These are just shoe return springs. They would be harder to install though, on an already difficult spring to install.

I'd almost be willing to bet these are Newstar brand springs. Not that they're poor quality, but they're always different from originals because they're made for Korean KM-250 deuces.

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I purchased 6 NOS from a popular supplier.
The OEM springs are 3/8 inch longer and easier to install.