Tailgate manual crank to electric conversion

I"m sure you guys have beat this one to death, but i'm in the process of converting my CUCV tailgate to an electric lift. I have all the hardware and an old wiring harness I pulled from the junkyard. My question is according to the diagram I looked at at the Chevy dealer, there is a "motor cutout switch" which I guess prevents the window from going up with the tailgate open???
Also, I have no idea how to wire it, does anyone have a wiring diagram link you can help out with? Any pitfalls or suggestions??? Any help would be much appreciated.

Boisemed

it is like a dead man switch , what I remember like the dome light just backwards

I did like you went to junkyard where I got the up down switch and everything in the tailgate the cutout is a switch so to say in the drivers rear side latch of the tail gate if your looking for it what it was for was to make sure the window was not going to get broke closing it up by mistake. I converted to an civy interior so I used the center console to mount my switch I cut a hole out centered so to say between the cubholders. As for wiring I bought some 12/3 heavy duty outdoor rated wire and ran from 12volt battery to relay then to switch then to tailgate one wire is hot and the other 2 switch as you move the switch up and down, when I did mine I found a really good article online about a chevy station wagon that is wired almost the same most chevy with power rear lift windows use a very close setup to our trucks

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uG6grzdUf8[/media] Try this.

ROTFLMAO

I was able to pull the entire assembly, to include the wires from the fuse box which went through the firewall and down under the vehicle. If you can, I would recommend going back to the junkyard and getting the factory wiring. It made it very easy for me. Makes life much easier.
Good luck.

I did the same retro-fit bout a year ago. I tapped into the spare 30-amp slot in the fuse box. Worked OK for a few months then would not go up without some assistance. Did some diagnostics today and found I needed to bypass the fuse box and run straight from the battery, with a 30-amp inline fuse, to the rocker switch, which I pulled out of a junkyard Suburban.