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Thread: FM100 TOP LOAD filter?

  1. #1
    Corporal Hollowman's Avatar
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    Default FM100 TOP LOAD filter?

    I wanted to do a spin on filter mod and I decided I'd get the Stanadyne FM100 fitted with the W.I.F sensor and the heater. I ordered it from The Diesel Store and when it arrived, I found the pictured unit in the box. Evidently this is the "Top Load" style unit and, while I like the way everything is integrated, I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to mount it. I'm sure I'll need to make a custom bracket so I wanted to check the site to see if anyone has any experience with this type of setup. I dont think the performance will be any different, and the filter change process should be pretty simple too, though I'm a little nervous about the price and availability of the stand alone filter elements. O.K. I just checked and it looks like I can get the inserts for $16 or less. This setup also looks like bleeding air and draining water will be pretty easy since the fuel inlet is on the bottom and the threaded vent is on the top. If anyone has any experience/suggestions regarding mounting, using, or even keeping this setup, I'm all ears. If you have any pictures of this on your truck, I'd love to see them. I'll be eyeballing the placement this weekend and trying to mock up a basic mounting bracket, once I start fabrication, I'll post some pics.


    FM100TM.jpg FM100TL Assem.jpg

    Kind Regards,

    Hollowman

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    4 Star General southdave's Avatar
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    Default

    This type unit was standard on the 6.5.. the ears on the housing bolt onto the intake manifold.. you will need to get the little valve to bleed the filter
    Nothing in this world is as useless as a man in flip flops....
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    Corporal Hollowman's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback Southdave. Now i'm wondering if it would be possible to swap out the stock intake manifold with one from the 6.5 in order to use the mounting bosses. I've been looking around for drawings of the two intakes to compare layouts but I'm coming up with little or no worthwhile info. Do you happen to know off hand if I can exchange these manifolds on my engine or if its worth it? If i'm keeping it naturally asipirated, would there be any advantages/ disadvantages to putting the 6.5 intake on the 6.2? Also, which little valve are you referring to for bleeding?

    Thanks!

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    I got one of these as well and while the fuel heater connection seems straight forward (pos/neg), I seem to be at a loss at figuring out which wires go where for the water sensor? Old connector has four leads and the new one only has three. The black and tan seems to be a diagnostic plug that isn't used on the newer filter from what I've been able to read here...here's a pic of the install, any info or advice would be appreciated

    20190908_094112.jpg

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    4 Star General Sharecropper's Avatar
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    Yeah that’s the filter I’m using on my P400 engine build. You can see photos in my rebuild thread. You will need to fabricate a special bracket or use a 6.5 open plane intake, which is what I did. I removed the pressed-in ferrels on the filter housing and drilled/tapped the holes larger to accept a 3/8” inlet/outlet volume. I plugged the drain outlet because there is nowhere to run the hose, plus I wanted to eliminate a future leak possibility.
    Hope this helps.

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    Thx...did you wire up the water sensor and if so how did you do it (which wires went to where)?

    Nice looking build....if my TH400 goes out then I plan on replacing it with a 700R, I get already 16mpg with the original drive train but OD would be nice for scooting along the freeway better.

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    4 Star General Sharecropper's Avatar
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    The wires from the FM for the WIF sensor and heater are exactly identical to the OEM firewall filter wires in my M1028. Same quantity and same color. 2 for the heater and 3 for the WIF. Surprised the hail out of me but I’ll take it. The connectors are slightly different but I plan to remove/rewire my original connectors over to the FM.

    I am considering adding a mechanical fuel pressure gauge immediately downstream from the FM, between the IP and the FM to monitor adequate fuel to those extra horses.

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    4 Star General ken's Avatar
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    I've had a few 6.5's over the years. You will want to lube/grease the threads in the plastic ring. If not you will struggle to get it off when you need to replace the filter. Also lube/grease the lip where the plastic ring contacts the boss on the filter.
    Kenny
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    Thanks....anyone know how the three water sensor wires are supposed to hook to the four wires that are original to the truck? Tried to figure it out with the TM pdf and my Chilton manual....I guess I could try to find a 6.5 manual but figured someone here is bound to have already done this upgrade). Also I noticed the Stanadyne catalog lists both 12v and 24v heater elements but which one were the original ones because IIRC CUCVs are a mix of 24v and 12v systems.

    EDIT - found this diagram which shows a three connector plug so thinking perhaps I wasn't looking at the correct (four connectors) plug under the hood?

    6.2 heater.jpg
    Last edited by sandsock; 09-11-2019 at 00:52.

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    Sergeant Major Rutjes's Avatar
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    My Navistar 6.5 came with that filter. I'd have to look, but I think I planned on moving it away from the single pane intake. I believe it would sit in the way of the vacuum pump?
    1984 Chevrolet M1028
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