Steering Box Adjustment ?

Can some of the slack in the steering box be adjusted out? Looks like some kind of adjustment on the side? I think I fineally found my slack in my steering, which isn't real bad but makes a clinking sound when mooving the steering wheel back and forth slightley.


When I hit a dip in the road or hit a hole, the front end shakes like a tierod end thats worn out but they are good and snug. No slack in the wheel bearrings either, no slack with the wheel jacked up off the ground. Not too sure about that short drag link on the left side, cant feel any slack. so only thing I know where any slack is ,Is that steering gear box.



Is a Steering Gear box hard to change out? :eyes:

LD,
Check for play at each end of the pitman arm. If there is any play at the shaft sticking through the top of the pitman arm then the two brass bushings in the steering box at the output shaft need to be replaced. If there is any play at the other end where the pitman arm connects to the control arm then the ball socket in the control arm needs replacing. Both are loose on my truck due to the $h!* sprag transfer case causing stress and binding driveline parts. Rebuilt parts are available from Saturn.

There is two kinds of slack. Slack in the steering weel and slack in the pitman arm shaft. If it's in the pitman arm shaft then you have to change the bearings" brass bushings" the gear oil usally leaks onto the pitman arm when the bushing wear out. If your truck came with a sprag T-CASE this will happen a lot more often. It's not a big deal to rebuild. You don't have to remove it from the truck. " pull the back cover next to the injection pump" Nock out the bushings and lip seal and install the new ones. Then don't forget to fill it back up with gear oil. I'll be doing mine and Desert Rat's soon. As far as adjustment? That's done with shims between the steering box and the bearing retainer on the top where the steering colum meets the box.(requires removal)You probally don't need to shim it. Most of the time it's the bushings on the pitman arm shaft. Good luck!

You may be right , because it is oily and greasy under the shaft and frame rail. I dont have the sprag but it may just be the wear and tear of age. I'm sure glad to hear its not too hard a job, I just drove my truck to the local Big Diesel Truck Shop and paid to get all my lug nuts busted loose with their big 1"inch drive impact, man those things were rusted on.

I have gaskets for the deuce steering boxes. If anybodys wants a couple I'll send you a couple just pay the postage I'll take a pic of the gasket and post tomorrow.

I'd like to get a set of these steering box gaskets. Mine been leaking for the last 60 days or so. (took me that long to figure it out) Can anyone tell me what type of gear oil to refill it with?
Thanks
Mike Bogner

90 wt gear oil. just about any GL5 will do.

DS,
Check you PM for a message from me.

What they are saying about the steering box is true. There is an adjustment on the side of the box facing the engine that will take up some of the slack as long as you do not have any excessive wear in the box.

Hi Guys, got your PMs on the gaskets. I'm going to be out of town this weekend (no not having fun like everyone else-working)but will get them ready to go out on Monday.

The adjustment screw IHG refered to is for "backlash" between the worm gear and the two half moon gears on the pinion shaft. This is set during assembly. If you bushings are worn and you adjust the screw, you will take out some of the felt solp in the steering weel. But the pitman arm will still be able to move up and down before rotating.

Yep, he's right. I have the cupped front tires to prove it too.

>Yep, he's right. I have the cupped front tires to prove it too.
I always thought that the cupping was due to running 6X6 on hard surfaces.

Ken and I have done some improvements to help. Rebuilding is next. Northside Auto Spring in Evansville, IN has a shim set-up to help with the caster (or is it camber?) that helps greatly too.

Caster and manual steering is a delicate balance. Positive caster will always help you go down the road but makes turning with manual steering tougher. Most older vehicles get them as close to 0 degrees caster as they could get them to assist with the manual steering. Positive caster makes a world of difference flat towing too. Every Jeeper that came in complaining that their Jeep wouldn't track on a towbar left with additional positive caster and a smile in the mirror.

In researching the "Front end alignment" article, I came to the conclusion that the primary cause of front wheel cupping was the locked rear axles. When turning, the rear axles turn on slightly different radii and when locked (without an interaxle differential) the front steering effort is increased causing a lot of scuffing as you turn because of the rear bogie wanting to go straight. Off-road it doesn't matter.
With about 6,000 highway miles on my new front tires, they show very little wear with the stub axle removed. Good front shocks help too.
Desert Rat, caster is effected by the sag of the leaf springs, which in turn effects the camber. Both sides should have matching shocks and springs for best performance.

Kenny, with one of your front springs sagging, why not save your M105 trailer springs for fixing your deuce tractor?

Good idea Bjorn. I've got another truck in the works and I'll be stripping it for my pipeline truck. I plan on using the springs on that truck. This trailer will help pay for it

Does anyone make new duece springs (or are they still available NOS through GL, etc.)?

Thanks Bjorn. I'm always confusing the two terms.