• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

1078 Alternator question

Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,706
6,341
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
When Neihoff lists only one current spec, it was the combined total. Where they list two currents that is where they have altered the construction so one side is carrying significamtly more than 50% of the total current. The 1505 lists 100/40 for 28/14v like you mentioned, but we dont use the 1505...

We use the 1506, 1509 or 1511 in 100A. The 1506 and 1509 are not even listed on Neihoffs website anymore, but the 1511-1 is still listed @100A combined output...

Eriks Military still lists all the specs for the 1506 and 1509 @100A combined...
Thanks
 

hike

—realizing each day
Steel Soldiers Supporter
376
598
93
Location
Texas Hill Country
I would make dropping to two batts step 1, you can do it today, lift the leads off of a front(toward front of truck) or rear pair of battery posts and insulate them...

The LBCD controls the charging system warning light. This function could be recreated with an off the shelf voltage sense relay module, sampling the excite control voltage sent to the regulator by relay K11 after the engine starts. If that voltage doesnt go over say 27.6V, it would light the dash charge system light indicating the system is not charging.
Thank you. Good advice on the order. (We have a Victron 24v-12v 70a and 4awg to make all the connections. Planning to do 1 and 2 together soon. Mounting the Victron to the inside passenger kick plate will work well); and relay—
 
Last edited:

j_boucher

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
53
61
18
Location
Virginia
I wanted to give an update, I now own a 1994 LMTV 1078, and I give many thanks to all who helped me with the alternator, when I got to the seller's house I started some troubleshooting and found there was 24V at the alternator 14V connection . I swapped the cables at the batteries and boom 28V.

I drove it about 120 miles @55 MPH on the interstate had around 50 PSI for oil pressure, max temp was around 200 and the clutch fan kicked in a few times "scared the crap out of me the first time" I see there is some leak at transmission near the yoke of front driveshaft so I will look at that tomorrow . I will post a picture of the rig tomorrow in the daylight, thanks again

for the transmission is there anything special needed to do it to go from 15W 40 to transmission fluid , just odd to me to have engine oil in transmission. NVM I found the fluid change post on this
 
Last edited:

j_boucher

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
53
61
18
Location
Virginia
So going through the truck I believe the transmission was overfilled, which is probably why it was leaking I checked it today and the fluid was just above the hot full mark, also my headlights wont work, and there is a light on the dash "green headlight symbol" I assume that is low beam, I checked fuse CB78 and both headlight relays (K7 and K8 )and they are good anyone know of another area to look ?
 

hike

—realizing each day
Steel Soldiers Supporter
376
598
93
Location
Texas Hill Country
I wanted to give an update, I now own a 1994 LMTV 1078, and I give many thanks to all who helped me with the alternator, when I got to the seller's house I started some troubleshooting and found there was 24V at the alternator 14V connection . I swapped the cables at the batteries and boom 28V.

I drove it about 120 miles @55 MPH on the interstate had around 50 PSI for oil pressure, max temp was around 200 and the clutch fan kicked in a few times "scared the crap out of me the first time" I see there is some leak at transmission near the yoke of front driveshaft so I will look at that tomorrow . I will post a picture of the rig tomorrow in the daylight, thanks again

for the transmission is there anything special needed to do it to go from 15W 40 to transmission fluid , just odd to me to have engine oil in transmission. NVM I found the fluid change post on this
NOTE: seeing this is a 1994 M1078A0, the images I posted for changing the PDP to 24v only feed and adding the Victron 24v-12v 70a leaves out a step or two needed on an A0 truck to accomplish this. @Ronmar has a video outlining the A0 steps on his you2b channel—
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,337
6,731
113
Location
Port angeles wa
So going through the truck I believe the transmission was overfilled, which is probably why it was leaking I checked it today and the fluid was just above the hot full mark, also my headlights wont work, and there is a light on the dash "green headlight symbol" I assume that is low beam, I checked fuse CB78 and both headlight relays (K7 and K8 )and they are good anyone know of another area to look ?
The headlight symbol is for high beam. The power from CB70 goes thru the light switch to power K7/headlight relay when you turn on the light switch To service drive. Since the ignition and headlight switch use CB70 power, and the truck starts and runs, your source power is OK. If K7 should energize with the main light switch in service drive.

The same power that energizes K7, is also used by the high/low beam switch to control K8/hi-low relay. K8 should cycle on and off with the hi-lo beam control switch on the steering colunm.

the high beam light in the dash gets its power from K8 pin 87, the same as the high beams, and that power comes from CB78 via the energized K7.

I would say the issue lies in the bulbs, or the wiring down in the bumper. There is a main connection plug down in the bumper J27. Are any of the front bumper lights working? Turnsignals? You need to select park on the 3lever switch to get the front park lights to light.
 

j_boucher

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
53
61
18
Location
Virginia
The headlight symbol is for high beam. The power from CB70 goes thru the light switch to power K7/headlight relay when you turn on the light switch To service drive. Since the ignition and headlight switch use CB70 power, and the truck starts and runs, your source power is OK. If K7 should energize with the main light switch in service drive.

The same power that energizes K7, is also used by the high/low beam switch to control K8/hi-low relay. K8 should cycle on and off with the hi-lo beam control switch on the steering colunm.

the high beam light in the dash gets its power from K8 pin 87, the same as the high beams, and that power comes from CB78 via the energized K7.

I would say the issue lies in the bulbs, or the wiring down in the bumper. There is a main connection plug down in the bumper J27. Are any of the front bumper lights working? Turnsignals? You need to select park on the 3lever switch to get the front park lights to light.
Yes the turn signals work fine just not the lights, I thought the bulbs themselves but was perplexed at 2 blown , I will check those connections in bumper
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks