- 459
- 1,101
- 93
- Location
- Gainesville, GA
Sooooo. It's not that easy, or cheap, or fast.
Some info:
Stock case: 1.27:1 Reduction
1810 Input yoke
1710 rear output yoke
1610 front output yoke
55000: 1.00:1.00 High
The yokes will vary. If you do not match the specs of the stock case you will need to change some things.
This conversion was
1810 input
1810 output rear
1610 output front
Much longer but narrower case. Slightly shorter.
Optional 6x6 via air selector.
Oshkosh 55000 transfer case swap has not been super easy but rewarding for the current result.
6th gear 65mph and 1700 rpm instead of 7th at 2100. Truck shifts super smooth.
So far I have found for a cargo truck it needs
1. New brackets at the correct angles (I will make some since people are interested in the swap $1250)
2. New driveshafts. Rear must be completely brand new since you cannot get parts to go from a 1810 yoke to a 3in or 3.5” tube cannot remember. Front shaft needs a carrier bearing added and factory shaft shortened. ($1400 for rear shaft, front shaft will be a shortened front driveshaft coupled with a new carrier bearing section. Waiting on price for front shaft)
3. Shift lever in cab for high low (working on a solution now ($500ish maybe)
4. A new fitting for the 6x6 air vent. ($5)
5. Cut the factory bed front most crossmember to clear oil pump on case.
No significant vibrations with the case and the brackets in the truck. Currently gotten the truck to 83mph and truck feels pretty stable but 505 tune is a MUST. On the semi hilly terrain here in north GA 72-75 foot to the floor on the highway is where it likes to be.
Factory locker engagement engages 6x6.
Fuel economy study to come.
Uses factory mounts so you do not need to drill any new holes in your frame so it is a "drop in" solution. However, a porta power to align the case will help you immensely and is quite time consuming. Removing your bed or sliding it back will be a must.
On a dump truck.... oah boy
Need 3 new hydraulic lines minimum and need to move the hydraulic valve shown in the picture. Remove the troop carrier lockout rod and paws from the front of the bed to clear hydro lines and case pump.
Let me know if you all have any questions or would like to purchase a "kit" or just some brackets. Overall probably not worth it to buy a new case and buy a full kit ($4-5k) and pay for install. If you have a case laying around and have some time on your hands and want to tackle a neat project I would say go for it. (I have 70+ hours in this swap)
Some info:
Stock case: 1.27:1 Reduction
1810 Input yoke
1710 rear output yoke
1610 front output yoke
55000: 1.00:1.00 High
The yokes will vary. If you do not match the specs of the stock case you will need to change some things.
This conversion was
1810 input
1810 output rear
1610 output front
Much longer but narrower case. Slightly shorter.
Optional 6x6 via air selector.
Oshkosh 55000 transfer case swap has not been super easy but rewarding for the current result.
6th gear 65mph and 1700 rpm instead of 7th at 2100. Truck shifts super smooth.
So far I have found for a cargo truck it needs
1. New brackets at the correct angles (I will make some since people are interested in the swap $1250)
2. New driveshafts. Rear must be completely brand new since you cannot get parts to go from a 1810 yoke to a 3in or 3.5” tube cannot remember. Front shaft needs a carrier bearing added and factory shaft shortened. ($1400 for rear shaft, front shaft will be a shortened front driveshaft coupled with a new carrier bearing section. Waiting on price for front shaft)
3. Shift lever in cab for high low (working on a solution now ($500ish maybe)
4. A new fitting for the 6x6 air vent. ($5)
5. Cut the factory bed front most crossmember to clear oil pump on case.
No significant vibrations with the case and the brackets in the truck. Currently gotten the truck to 83mph and truck feels pretty stable but 505 tune is a MUST. On the semi hilly terrain here in north GA 72-75 foot to the floor on the highway is where it likes to be.
Factory locker engagement engages 6x6.
Fuel economy study to come.
Uses factory mounts so you do not need to drill any new holes in your frame so it is a "drop in" solution. However, a porta power to align the case will help you immensely and is quite time consuming. Removing your bed or sliding it back will be a must.
On a dump truck.... oah boy
Need 3 new hydraulic lines minimum and need to move the hydraulic valve shown in the picture. Remove the troop carrier lockout rod and paws from the front of the bed to clear hydro lines and case pump.
Let me know if you all have any questions or would like to purchase a "kit" or just some brackets. Overall probably not worth it to buy a new case and buy a full kit ($4-5k) and pay for install. If you have a case laying around and have some time on your hands and want to tackle a neat project I would say go for it. (I have 70+ hours in this swap)