Advice before purchase neede please !

[Jim Hunter]

Advice before purchase needed please !

Hello guys and gals,

I plan for a possible purchase of a M37.
Except from sheetmetal condition rust etc and general inspection are there some weak points ?
I also have some specific questions.
1)where is the chassis # located ???
2)how can easily spot on a M37B1 from a M37 ?
3)a winch can be fitted in a w/o winch truck ?

Thank you,
Jim

 

[ke6rwj]

1) on the frame rail behind the left front tire

2) usually the tire carrier on the drivers door, however these are also retrofitted on the earlier non-b1 models... additionally the NON-b1's usually had the tire in the bed. The data plate could also show, but ultimately the year and model number will be the best clue. (prepared for flaming, bring on the heat)

3) it can be fitted, but there are lots of rare parts to find. unless $$ isnt an issue.

Also
- Look at some of the pictures here for the engine pieces, give you an idea what should be there.
- look under the passenger seat for the battery box, lid, and rust through floor.
- wiring will be a loss im sure, make sure all the guages and metal are there, thats a popular piece to pilfer.
- rear cross member at the end of the bed is usually trashed rust through...
- check the metal behind the reflectors, from inside you can see if its "soft" to give you an idea if its rusted through..
- front fenders under the headlights, above the cross support is usually rust badly.

if you find any of the troop seat hardware or bow corner/parts consider yourself lucky, if you dont want them send me a PM..

 

[Jim Hunter]

Thank you so much for your great help !
When I will go to the yard I will take a lot of pics.
Winch has to be removed from an original w/winch that is badly rusted, all parts are there so no big issues.One more thing what size are the bolts that secures the winch in the chassis/bumper ? As for the troop seats I will look and let you know...

Jim

 

[ke6rwj]

Thank you so much for your great help !
When I will go to the yard I will take a lot of pics.
Winch has to be removed from an original w/winch that is badly rusted, all parts are there so no big issues.One more thing what size are the bolts that secures the winch in the chassis/bumper ? As for the troop seats I will look and let you know...

Jim

Good on the winch, not sure about the bolt sizes, mine doesn't have one, helped on them some though. Dunno for sure.. Also if you get new data plates ( which are cheap) you can always have WW (with winch) instead of WOW (without winch) to fool the moderately educated. Anyone smart will do more research though.

Well I see your in Greece, so maybe the hardware in the troop seats is a bit much to send

Pics are a good thing, you'll cherish them when your all done restoring and everyone has forgotten what a piece of junk they thought it was

 

[Jim Hunter]

Thank you so much for the fast help
As for the seats I will send a whole truck in US in some months so...

Jim

 

[Mike_L]

The TM says the bolts are:

Side brackets - Winch to Frame. 6 each, 1/2"-20NF-3 x 1 3/8"
Front brackets - Winch to Bumper. Top (to Winch) - 4 each, 5/8"-11NC-3 x 1 1/2"; Bottom (to Bumper) - 4 each, 1/2"-20NF-3 x 1"

Hope this helps.

 

[Jim Hunter]

Thank you Mike

Jim

 

[powerwagontim]

Hi Mike,
Interesting specs from the TM. I just went through this. My winch had 9/16"x12 bolts in the front bracket to the winch castings. I know this for sure, as one was stripped. I had to buy a 9/16" Helicoil set to repair it! Lots of conflicting info in those TMs!
Tim

 

[Jim Hunter]

This is very interesting Tim...

Jim

 

[mkcoen]

Jim,

Did you wind up getting the M37? If so, we need PICTURES!

The late Sid Beck, M37 guru here in TX, used to make buying trips to Greece for parts. Since we sold/gave so many of them to the Greek government they started replicating some of the parts themselves. I purchased a Greek color coded wiring harness from Sid (new in the box) for $75 compared to an OE American one that goes for around $900. Since my truck (wife's actually) isn't going to be a restoration show truck we just wanted good wiring not necessarily the exact replacement.

The reason for the long post is to say you should be able to get some good parts since you're at one of the sources.

 

[Jim Hunter]

Thank you all guys for your help.

Nice to hear that Mkcoen! There is not many M37s left here now...

Early November I will be back at the yard to take some pictures to see them

Jim

 

[Preuss2]

Hi, Newbie here who is considering a M37 purchase. This thread is useful as a guide when I inspect the truck. Any other bits of wisdom to consider before purchasing?It appears tires are going to be costly, based on my search of posts here. Any low-cost alternatives that look decent on the M37.Thanks,Jim

 

[Roller]

Hi, Newbie here who is considering a M37 purchase. This thread is useful as a guide when I inspect the truck. Any other bits of wisdom to consider before purchasing?It appears tires are going to be costly, based on my search of posts here. Any low-cost alternatives that look decent on the M37.Thanks,Jim

Super Swampers are reasonably priced, although they aren't military.

Frank

 

[ke6rwj]

16x900 are the most common, super lugs.. they look GREAT! you can do the military Non direction tread (ndt) but they are pricy... no matter what your gonna pay 250 a tire, unless they are used... its WAY better than the guys with the 2.5 or 5 tons... I love my M37.. if i dont have the kids with me, im driving it.. (car seat and mommy issues)

dont be scared! get one thats as low as possible on body cancer... join the local MVPA group and start networking for parts... dont be afraid to get junk parts and spend time learning and refurbishing.. there is NO need for all new stuff... and in alot of cases the old crusty stuff is better than new.. some repo stuff is junk..

my advice... get it running ASAP.. start enjoying it.. if you dont it will just take forever and you will get bogged down... mine has been "krylon ruddy brown camo" (all ruddy brown primer) for a couple years as i get everything dialed in.. i go to all the MVPA meets here in Bama (even drove around the talladega raceway with all the "green" show queens..) I am constantly motivated to work on it, since its in public and shown off (much to my neighbors DIS-satisfaction.. )

 

[GUNNY 155]

My advice to anyone interested or thinking about restoring a Historic Military Vehicle is this..... Jump in, it is a great hobby and will give you hours of fun. You can put as much money or time in as you like and still the best part is you will meet a lot of great people and a lot of new friends.

 

[3dAngus]

For the tires, just buy a M101A1 trailer from GL with excellent tires. If the trailer is a junker, you can scrap it after taking off the parts and get most of your money back. The landing legs, front and rear are easy sells, as are any side rails, top bows, and canvas. Keep the tailgate if you scrap it, as it's worth another $60 if ding free.

That's the best way to invest in good wheels and tires for a M-37. Expect the prices to be between $400-600 at GL. Metal will scrap for about $150 after stripping off the wheels, wiring, lights, pintle, hand brakes, landing legs, etc

You might have less then $100 per wheel in it when done, unless you keep the trailer for yourself, but then, you'll need to find more 5 lug wheels, or remove the ones from your truck and put them on the trailer, if they are safe enough. You'll always have a spare for emergencies too.