Battery Disconnect / Crossover Lead Idea for generators

[Chainbreaker]

I decided that it would be a good idea to install a battery disconnect on my MEP-002a since the TM recommends it when unit is not being used for a while. I am also using two 12V Battery Minder 1500's to charge, maintain and de-sulfate each battery, and while not absolutely necessary, I like the idea of having each battery electrically isolated from one another while under charge/maintenance. Using a disconnect also prevents any parasitic drain potential or an unattended short situation (rodents, etc.).

So, I wanted a disconnect but I didn't like the idea of adding additional connection points (failure points) or having a disconnect hanging off the side of a battery terminal. So I came up with the idea of completely replacing the series connection battery cable (crossover cable) with a battery disconnect. I used two "Schumacher BAF-MT2 coated marine terminal ends" that come together as a set combined with a "GAMA side post battery disconnect". Total parts cost was less than $20 via Amazon. I completed a vibration test of the disconnect switch after running the generator for 2 days after a power failure last weekend and it is rock solid.

The switch piece itself measures 3" o.c. and the marine terminals are 1" o.c. With everything oriented "inline" at maximum distance it could span a gap of up to 5" between adjacent battery terminals. In the pictures below mine is spanning a distance of 3" as oriented in this right angle configuration.

Just wanted to pass along this idea along to others as "another way" to add in a battery disconnect or for anyone that needs to replace a crossover cable.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Great setup there. I've used those disconnects on MEPs but haven't done it that way by replacing the short battery wire. Looks great & thanks for posting!

Kevin

 

[steelandcanvas]

Nice idea! The only thing better, is I have all the parts on the shelf to make up my own.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Thanks for the thanks guys! Glad I had an idea, although a simple one, to share with this great site. The members here are really helpful and are especially invaluable to those of us new to green, or tan in my case.

If any of you do implement this method using the Schumacher terminals a couple added tips: 1. Be sure to remove any excess paint on the raised boss contact area on the terminal ends where the screw post is. The mfg. got a little overzealous in the paint application (BTW - they are excellent quality terminals). The wingnut on top would make electrical contact, but the raised boss the brass disconnect switch sits on top of has more surface area. 2. The hole on the side of the disconnect switch that is threaded (for normally mounting to a sidepost battery) will not easily clear the threaded stud of the positive terminal (threads are different diameter), it almost clears but all you need to do is spin it on and it will follow the threads and mount up flush against the bottom of switch bottom. Hand tighten the wingnuts as tight as possible and then take pliars and tighten until good and tight. Then with disconnect switch set to "on" test that your panel lights come on when flipped on, turn off disconnect switch and retry panel lights, if they are off you are good!