• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Bobbed my crew cab 5 ton

Jeep Nasty

Active member
379
242
43
Location
NH
Back story is I had no intention of bobbing this. I did some climbing over 4-5 foot tall boulders in my back yard and blew out 8 of the 12 Control arm bushings in the rear tandem axle assembly.

When I looked at all the work and cost that was involved I decided to just go ahead and Bob it to eliminate the control arm bushings altogether.

I used a set of mrap springs that I purchased in the classifieds and this is where I'm at so far.

I also decided to swap in an axle with a Detroit locker in it.

before picture ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439515820.771191.jpg
Work begins.

I also took on this task in my driveway with limited tools at my disposal. I am getting very good at borrowing what I need.
I put my 5 ton trailer behind the crew cab unbolted the bed and used another truck to pull the bed onto the trailer while I did the bob.

I borrowed my friends Diamond T wrecker to lift up the frame and put it on Jack stands, then used it to pull out the tandem axle assembly.

The issue with using the MRAP springs was that they don't come with lower spring plates and you also need a plate on top of the spring between the springs and axle. Then, because the number and curve of the springs is different than using 5 ton front springs, I also had to weld a solid steel 2" block to the "1 thick spring plate to clear the air cans on the brakes even after turning the cans.

I now have the axle centered and the wheel base is at 192" even from center to center on both sides. I need to weld some centering tabs onto the spring plate to make sure the axles doesn't move now they are in final position. I replaced all the air lines as well.

I'm going to repaint the truck while I have it apart before I put the bed back on.

I also did not plan for the diameter of balancing wheel on the driveshaft which is sitting very close to cross member when suspension compresses. I will have to notch it out to avoid clearance issues when the spring needs to compress.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439515871.349084.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1439515895.834785.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1439515912.785038.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1439515928.519111.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1439515951.625580.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1439515969.227212.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1439515989.845261.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1439516010.666790.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1439516034.065785.jpg
 
Last edited:

cybrockway

New member
31
-1
0
Location
Effort, PA
The truck looks great...Mind if I ask a couple questions? What driveshaft did you use, did you add shocks or do you not need them? I've got a M931A2 and need a drive shaft as both of mine are short like the lower one in your picture. Overall, how does the truck ride with the MRAP springs? I might buy this same kit...
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,685
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
I will be bobing mine after new year. Thank you so much for posting the rear spring plate mods.(very nice-clean work) My first bob I did I used deuce springs in the rear-what a mistake. I then swapped them out for 5 ton springs. I am putting mrap springs on this one(cleaner look) My question is how is the ride-- the 5 ton springs were STIFF.
 

Jeep Nasty

Active member
379
242
43
Location
NH
The truck looks great...Mind if I ask a couple questions? What driveshaft did you use, did you add shocks or do you not need them? I've got a M931A2 and need a drive shaft as both of mine are short like the lower one in your picture. Overall, how does the truck ride with the MRAP springs? I might buy this same kit...
A custom driveshaft shop made the shaft. The lower shaft was the original shaft, we used the mounting flanges off the old shaft but everything else was new including slip yoke, tube and joints. We could not re-tube the original shaft without compromising safety at that length. We had to upgrade to 4.5 inch tubing be able to safely run at the RPM for that length.
Shaft was expensive, ($1100) only $150 of that was labor. Safety first though, I don't need a driveshaft exploding at 60MPH.

The MRAP springs ride great, they were just a lot more work than 5-ton front springs and did not save me any money after all the extra parts and material that needed to be fabricated.
 

Jeep Nasty

Active member
379
242
43
Location
NH
Looks sweet :) I'm curious though.. How do people get into the rear portion of the cab? Seems like they have to step a long way up to stand on the top of the toolbox, or on top of the fuel tank..
So far it's been a nonexistent problem for me my rear seat passengers are 3,4 and five years old so they have to be lifted in no matter what. whenever some adults want to go for a ride I have them climb in the front then go through the 3 foot wide gap in between the front driver and passenger seat. I'll eventually put some other steps in, I'm just waiting for the serendipitous moment when I realize what will work and still look stock.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks